As soon as we set foot on the island of Cozumel after the short ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, we had a glimpse of what our days on the island would be like. On the one hand, the intense blue of a sea full of life promised us some of the best diving and snorkeling in the Caribbean. On the other hand, the abrupt and constant sale of tours, the many crappy souvenir stores and the various multinational chain restaurants reminded us that we had just arrived on an island that lives by and for cruise ships and a certain type of fast tourism.

On the island of Cozumel we dived in the second largest barrier reef in the world among underwater caves covered in a thousand colors, we saw huge starfish along with elegant eagle rays and turtles (from a distance and without touching), we swam in fine sand beaches and turquoise waters (although in most cases after paying at a beach club), we saw crocodiles and flamingos in an area of the island that bears little resemblance to the shock we felt when we arrived.

The “stars” of the island, never better said. (Photo by Randomtrip, taken by Memo from Maybe Tours. All rights reserved)

It is true that in touristy Cozumel, transparency is only reflected in its waters. Outside them, the constant is that the simple task of booking a lodging, restaurant or a tour can become a desperate task between shady prices or that do not correspond to what you get. It is possible, though not easy, to escape this unfortunate trend that Cozumel has embraced. In this travel guide we try to explain how to do it, as well as give you practical tips on where to go, things to do in Cozumel, what to avoid so as not to fall into tourist traps and even where to eat.

Check out our complete guide to Riviera Maya and Mexican Caribbean if you are planning a trip to the area.

Contents

Basic facts for travel to Cozumel

Currency: MXN ($) Mexican Peso (1$ equals 20 MXN approx.). Check the updated exchange rate here

Official Language: Spanish

Population: 88,000 (in 2020)

When to visit: As in all the Yucatan Peninsula, there are two main seasons, the dry season (November to April) and the rainy season (May to October, with the probability of hurricanes between June and November), so it is recommended to go during the dry season (although in November, December and even January there are still rainy days, depending on luck). Also, you will have to take into account the famous sargassum that usually invades the beaches from April to August, although it varies from year to year. We detail more about when to visit Cozumel in this section of the blog.

How long to stay: Minimum 1 day but the ideal time to visit Cozumel is 3 days (and if you want to stay and relax on the beaches, you can increase the number of days you want). In this section we share specific itineraries for Cozumel to help you organize your trip.

How to get there: The most common is to arrive by ferry from Playa del Carmen, although Cozumel has an airport, with both domestic and international flights (we recommend you use flight comparators such as Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with dates to get the best possible price). More details in this section of the guide.

Visa: With a US, Canadian, European or UK passport it is not necessary to obtain a visa. Upon arrival in Mexico, it will be enough to show your valid passport, and depending on your departure date, you will be given up to a maximum of 180 days. Although Mexico does not require a passport with at least 6 months validity, some airlines do, so it’s better to comply.

Where to stay: The easiest thing to do is to stay in San Miguel de Cozumel, where there are multiple lodging and dining options. At Randomtrip we indulged ourselves and stayed at the Hotel Puerto Libre, in a room with ocean views, right in the town center, next to the port. If you have your own vehicle (or if you just want to relax and hire a tour that takes you to see the island) you have several resorts, some of them all-inclusive, along the west coast of the island. More details in the Where to stay in Cozumel section of the blog.

What to bring: A good travel insurance (in this link we give you a 5% discount on the one we always carry) and here is the list of what you must have in your backpack for this trip

How to get around: The best option is to have your own vehicle (you can bring it on the ferry or rent a motorcycle, buggy, car or 4×4 on the island). Otherwise, you have cabs (very expensive) or you can hire tours. More info on how to get around Cozumel in this section of the blog.

How much it costs: From 55$/day (1000 pesos/day) per person (approx.) for a 3-day trip, depending on the type of accommodation, meals and how much you want to explore the island of Cozumel. More budget information in this section of the guide.

Internet connection: If you are visiting for a few days, your phone supports eSIM and you don’t want to complicate things, we recommend Holafly eSIM (unlimited data, 5% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP) or Airalo eSIM (limited data, but cheaper, 15% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP15). Otherwise, the cheapest way is to get a local SIM (we recommend Telcel). More info here

Vaccines: there are some recommended vaccines if you travel to Mexico, you can check them here

Time zone: UTC -5.

Our island accommodation-caprice, the Hotel Puerto Libre, and a happy birthday boy looking out to the sea (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Where is Cozumel

Cozumel is a Mexican Caribbean island located off the coast of the Riviera Maya, in the east of the Yucatan Peninsula, just in front of Playa del Carmen, which is about 30 minutes away by boat

Mapa con la ubicación de Cozumel en México

When to visit Cozumel

To choose the best time to visit Cozumel you have to take into account 3 main factors: weather, tourist demand and sargassum. Here we detail when to visit Cozumel based on them.

Weather in Cozumel

The weather in Cozumel, as in all the Riviera Maya area, is mainly divided into two seasons:

  • Dry season (November to April): less chance of rain, milder temperatures (it is still hot). The winter months (December to March) usually have the best weather, although depending on the year this may vary, and during December and January it is common for “nortes” (north winds) to arrive with slightly cooler winds and sporadic rains, which can sometimes cause port closures for small boats affecting tours (it happened in December just before our visit and also just after). You can check the port closure warnings in this Facebook group.
  • Rainy season (May to October): it rains more, it is warmer and there is a probability of hurricanes (the official hurricane season is from June to November).

The ideal time to visit Cozumel is during the dry season, to have a better chance of good weather and less chance of hurricanes, from December to April.

Chunchacab Beach (Punta Sur Ecological Reserve), in December (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Here is a summary table of the weather in Cozumel to give you an idea of what to expect:

Cozumel weather chart, with temperatures and rainy days per month:

MonthMinimum temperatureMaximum temperatureWater temperature (average)Probability of sargassumRainy days
January19º27º27ºLow6
February19º28º26ºLow5
March19º29º27ºMedium5
April20º30º27ºHigh4
May22º31º28ºHigh8
June23º31º29ºHigh12
July22º32º29ºHigh11
August22º32º29ºMedium12
September22º31º29ºMedium16
October22º30º29ºLow14
November21º29º28ºLow9
December19º28º27ºLow6
MonthMinimum temperatureMaximum temperatureWater temperature (average)Probability of sargassumRainy days
Summary table of the weather in Cozumel by month
At Randomtrip we spent Christmas on Cozumel (Photo by Randomtrip, taken by Memo from Maybe Tours. All rights reserved)

Sargassum in Cozumel

Another problem that affects several areas of the Riviera Maya and the Yucatan Peninsula, and also Cozumel, is Sargassum, although like everything, it depends on the year. The advantage of Cozumel is that, being an island, the sargassum is usually more concentrated on the beaches on the east side, while the west side, which is in front of the coast of the Riviera Maya, is somewhat more free of sargassum. In addition, as most of the beaches on the west side are practically privatized by accommodations and beach clubs, these businesses tend to clean them on a daily basis.

One of the beaches on the west coast of Cozumel. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Sargassum is a floating macroalgae that moves with the currents. It has its important function in the ocean (for example, it produces oxygen through photosynthesis and is a habitat for different species). On the other hand, an excessive amount of sargassum can generate problems in the ocean itself (for example, if it sinks it can suffocate corals).

In theory it has always existed in the Gulf of Mexico, but since 2011 it began to increase its area, and from then on large quantities of sargassum began to arrive on the shores of the Caribbean beaches, disfiguring them and producing a nauseating odor.

The amount of sargassum that arrives and the months during which it appears varies from year to year, being very difficult to predict: normally the sargassum season goes from April to August, but for example in 2023 it started to appear already in February.

The Mexican government and businesses/hotels have several initiatives to try to mitigate the effects of sargassum, such as cleaning the beaches or even installing anti-sargassum nets/barriers in the sea, but they are not 100% effective so the ideal is to avoid the months with more risk of sargassum if your goal is to travel to the Mexican Caribbean to enjoy its beaches.

If you want to check the updated status of the different beaches of the Mexican Caribbean, there is the Facebook page Red de Monitoreo del Sargazo de Quintana Roo, which frequently updates the data (although not always), in Viajefest or in Sargassum Monitoring. We also recommend searching for Instagram stories by location to see “real time” images of the beaches you plan to visit.

Chen Rio, one of the best beaches on the east coast (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Tourism demand in Cozumel

The times of highest tourist demand (and therefore, when we will find more people, more lines, more expensive prices and more complications to go to the most famous restaurants or places) are:

  • Carnival (February)
  • Easter Week (March/April, depending on the year)
  • Summer (June to October): besides being school vacation time in many countries and increasing demand (and prices), it is the rainy and hurricane season.
  • Some national holidays (November, December)
  • Christmas-New Year’s Eve-The Three Wise Men (from the last two weeks of December until January 6 you are likely to find higher prices, sold-out accommodations and full tours).

So we recommend you to avoid those dates if you want to enjoy the island more calmly and with better accommodation prices.

San Miguel de Cozumel. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Important festivities in Cozumel

If you want to be in Cozumel for the biggest parties of the year, don’t miss out:

  • Carnival (February): Cozumel has 146 years of Carnival tradition and the celebration on the island includes the crowning of carnival kings and queens, parades of floats, dance troupes dressed in costumes of lights, costumes and original masks; concerts and the traditional “Burning of Juan Carnival” to culminate the celebration.
  • El Cedral Fair and the Feast of the Holy Cross of Sabán (from the end of April to May 3): it is one of the oldest celebrations in the country since it has been held since 1848. During these days there are religious, gastronomic, cultural and sports activities.
Monument to the carnavaleros in Cozumel. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Summary: Best months to visit Cozumel

Based on the above, if you are looking to visit with good weather (with less risk of rain and sargassum), the best months to visit Cozumel are November, December, January and February, avoiding the weeks with the highest tourist demand, being that March to May is also a good time although very hot but with a high possibility of sargassum.

Arriving at El Cielo, in December (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

How to get to Cozumel

There are two ways to get to Cozumel: by air or by sea. Cozumel has an international airport with direct flights from several cities in Mexico (such as Cancun, Mexico City, Merida or Monterrey) and also from several foreign cities being a large part of the USA such as Chicago, Houston, Miami, Denver, Dallas, Atlanta, Austin or Minneapolis, or from Canada such as Toronto. If you want to fly to the island, we recommend you to use flight comparators such as Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with the dates to get the best possible price.

By sea is the other option, in a journey of about 30 minutes by ferry from Playa del Carmen. This was our case, and the one we recommend if you are making a trip to various points of the Yucatan Peninsula and the Riviera Maya. There are two companies that operate this route, Ultramar and Winjet (at Randomtrip we did the trip with Ultramar), and they alternate between one and the other, with a boat from each company leaving from hour to hour, depending on the day. There are no big differences between one and the other (Winjet is a few cents cheaper), and ticket prices range from 290 pesos each way (about 16$) for adults (230 pesos each way for minors) and discounts for Quintana Roo residents (from 170 pesos each way for adults and 110 pesos each way for minors). Here you can buy your tickets in advance for Ultramar with Viator

The Ferry on which we traveled from Playa del Carmen to Cozumel (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Do I need a visa to travel to Mexico?

For people with USA, Canada, UK and European passports it is not necessary to obtain a visa. Upon arrival in Mexico, it will be enough to show your valid passport, and depending on your departure date, you will be given up to a maximum of 180 days.

Although Mexico does not require a passport with at least 6 months validity, some airlines do, so it’s better to comply.

Are there required vaccines to travel to Mexico?

There are some recommended vaccines if you travel to Mexico, you can check them here

How many days to visit Cozumel

Minimum one day, you can go in the morning from Playa del Carmen and return on the last ferry (book your round trip ferry), planning your day well to do plenty of snorkeling in those crystal clear waters. But if you can dedicate at least two or three days to get off the most obvious route of the island and explore its more virgin side, you won’t regret it and it is the option we recommend.

In this section we share specific itineraries of 1, 2 or 3 days to help you organize your trip to Cozumel.

At the Celarain lighthouse in Punta Sur (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Mexico travel insurance

Do you know what cannot be missing in your luggage? A good travel insurance! We are affiliates of several specialized travel insurance companies and you can get a discount in some of them if you book with us:

Apart from the medical assistance in case something happens when you visit Mexico, the insurance can also cover anything that happen while you get into adventures like hiking, kayaking, snorkeling and diving. Also, if something happens to your luggage (damage, theft, delays, losing it) or if your flight is cancelled or delayed (or, if because a delay you lose another connecting flight), a travel insurance can also help

Carefully read the terms and conditions of each policy and hire the insurance that best suits your needs.

Things to do in Cozumel

Map of Cozumel

Here is a Google Maps map that you can take with you on your smartphone to use during your trip, with all the places to visit in Cozumel:

Brief introduction to the island: what we wish we had known before arriving to Cozumel

Cozumel is the third largest island in Mexico, has been declared a Biosphere Reserve by Unesco and is recognized as one of the best diving destinations in the country. The island’s biodiversity does not end at the bottom of the sea, where we can contemplate a piece of the second largest barrier reef in the world, but we can also appreciate it on the surface, where we can see more than 400 species of birds.

In fact, the island is named after a swallow. It turns out that Cozumel comes from the Mayan words Kosom lumil: kosom or kusam means swallow and lu’um or lumil means land so the name would come from place of the swallows or land of the swallows and according to history there were many swallows around here. With the arrival of the Spanish settlers, the adaptation of the words became the word Cozumel.

Swallows Monument near the Port (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Unfortunately, it is very sad to see such a biodiverse and paradisiacal corner of the Mexican Caribbean being privatized and left at the mercy of classism and with several animal abuse practices that should already be prohibited.

There are three points that help us understand what Cozumel has become and the fact that, with respect to tourism on the island, transparency is reflected only in its waters:

  • Cozumel is an island that lives by and for the giant cruise ships that dock here every day to drop hundreds of tourists for a few hours. Everything is adapted to the rhythm of the cruise ships, so most of the activities and beach clubs on the island are oriented (both by schedules and prices) to this type of tourism that uses and abuses the resources leaving very little in return (especially to the local population). By the way, if you want to check how many cruise ships dock on the island every day, go to this website. In Randomtrip we did it to define our route and try to escape the crowds (although it is difficult): the days that several cruise ships arrive to the island, avoid the beach clubs on the west coast… In our case, in December, on the worst day there were 7 cruise ships!
Number of cruise passengers throughout Mexico in January 2024, where Cozumel accounted for almost 50% of the total. Source: El Economista
  • Cozumel is an island with an international airport with direct flights not only from destinations within Mexico (such as Cancun, Mexico City, Merida or Monterrey) but also from several foreign cities, most of them from the USA such as Chicago, Houston, Miami, Denver, Dallas, Atlanta, Austin or Minneapolis and also from Canada such as Toronto. The large influx of US tourists is noticeable both in the fact that in most places you will be addressed directly in English and that even make us doubt whether the local currency is still Mexican pesos, since in most places the inflated prices appear, and are charged, directly in dollars…
  • The proximity to Playa del Carmen, one of the tourist epicenters of the Mexican Caribbean, which is only half an hour away by ferry and makes it very easy for all the people who are there to go spend a day, or several, to the island in front.
Cozumel handicrafts adapted to the island’s tourism… (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

If you speak Spanish, I’ll steal less from you” was the first phrase we heard when we arrived at the port of Cozumel and, unfortunately, it serves as a summary of the feeling we had during our stay on the island: that we are constantly being ripped off. We thought we had arrived at a paradise of transparent waters where we could relax and it turned out to be a place where we had to be alert to try to leave with the least possible economic damage. It is possible to escape this unfortunate tourist trend, exploring what you can of Cozumel on your own, and in this guide we tell you how.

Cozumel is synonymous with cruising (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Punta Sur Eco Beach Park (Ecological Reserve)

At the southern tip of the island of Cozumel is Punta Sur, an eco-park whose objective is to take care of the fauna and flora of the reserve. For this reason they have strict rules (such as no sunscreen to avoid damaging the marine ecosystem and no smoking) and, unlike the other sites on the island, access to the beach is not privatized. Around here, the entrance fee you pay to the ecopark allows you to enjoy everything inside except snorkel equipment rental(bring your own on this trip, it will be worth it), kayak rental, massages or, of course, whatever you consume in any of the seven bars or restaurants in the ecopark.

The beautiful Chunchacab beach, in the Punta Sur Ecological Reserve (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Price: 357 pesos/person (or 22$) for adults and 238 pesos (or 14$) for children 4 to 12 years old. Free admission for children under 3 years old.

Hours: Open from 9:00h to 16:00h from Monday to Saturday (closed on Sundays). Prices and schedules may change, check before on this website.

How to get there: The best way to get to Punta Sur is by your own vehicle (motorcycle, car, buggy or jeep). If you prefer, you can hire this 4×4 tour through the Punta Sur Ecological Park (with beach club and lunch in another area included).

Here we tell you everything you can see in Punta Sur:

Tatich boat ride on Colombia Lagoon

The entrance fee includes a guided tour in the boat “El Tatich” through Laguna Colombia that we recommend you to do. This tour only takes place 3 times a day (12:00h, 13:00h and 14:00h), has limited places and lasts approximately 40 minutes so if you want to do it, something we highly recommend, make sure you are 10 minutes before at this point.

Our guide during the El Tatich boat ride on Laguna Colombia at Punta Sur Eco Beach Park (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

According to history, the name Laguna Colombia comes from a hacienda that existed here between 1880 and 1926 whose owners were, precisely, from Colombia. Just like the homonymous coral reef on the island whose name comes from the same place.

See the camouflaged crocodile? We saw it during the boat ride on the El Tatich boat in Laguna Colombia, at Punta Sur Eco Beach Park (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Besides seeing several crocodiles and observing some of the more than 400 species of birds in Cozumel (such as herons, coco ducks, vultures, flamingos, pelicans, roseate spoonbills,…), on the tour we learned about the different species of mangroves, a very important ecosystem which capture carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and, in turn, produces oxygen, something essential to life. There are four types of mangroves and on the island of Cozumel we can see all four: red mangrove, black mangrove, white mangrove and yellow mangrove.

Crocodile among mangroves (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

In addition to being one of the most productive terrestrial ecosystems on the planet and essential for many species, mangroves have other important functions such as protection from hurricanes and bad weather. We were told on the tour that Hurricane Wilma in 2005 was devastating but, in this area, the impact was much less thanks to the mangroves that protect it.

We highly recommend the El Tatich boat ride in Punta Sur, included in the entrance fee to the reserve (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Celarain Lighthouse

The Celarain Lighthouse is located at the end of Punta Sur and its name comes from the name of Punta Sur itself: Punta Celarain.

The Celarain Lighthouse and, below, the Lighthouse Keeper’s House and the Navigation Museum (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Beyond the impressive panoramic view of the island that makes it worthwhile to climb the 133 steps of the lighthouse and the important function of guiding boats, the Celarain lighthouse holds stories and legends of Cozumel’s past.

The reward you will have after climbing the 133 steps: an incredible 360º panoramic view (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

History tells us that this lighthouse is not the original one. The original lighthouse was an iron lighthouse, apparently created by the Eiffel House itself, eaten away by salt and wind that proved to be unsalvageable. A new lighthouse was built in the first half of the 30’s, made of concrete and 33 meters high, which today is climbed by 300 people a day (we recommend you to go at lunchtime when we went in Randomtrip, as we enjoyed it alone).

In addition, this lighthouse hides a legend about how the tourist industry started in Cozumel. Cozumel was on the commercial maritime route between several Caribbean ports (mainly in Central America, Cuba and Florida in the USA) and this lighthouse was a guide that prevented, on the one hand, any ship from running aground on one of its reefs and, on the other hand, from damaging (even more) the marine ecosystem of Cozumel.

Iguana in front of the Celarain lighthouse (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

But, legend has it, there was an accident. In 1950, a ship carrying bananas from Guatemala to Alabama (USA), a vessel belonging to the American investor and exporting businessman Charles Fair, had an accident and crashed into the lighthouse. Forced to travel to the island to try to recover his boat, Charles was captivated by the beauty of the island of Cozumel and promised to return. He did. When he returned to the island, he was accompanied by his friend, Richard Humphrey, a writer for Holiday magazine, who by publishing an article in his magazine about the island, made Cozumel famous as a tourist destination.

In addition to going up to the lighthouse, in the building built to service the lighthouse you will find the Navigation Museum and the Lighthouse Keeper’s House, both with exhibits where you can learn about the fauna and flora of Cozumel as well as about the different maritime expeditions. For example, about the arrival of Juan de Grijalva to Cozumel in 1518 and the expedition of Hernán Cortés to the island the following year, which initiated the subsequent terrible conquest of Mexico by the Spanish colonizers. We also learned in this small museum that it was here, on the island of Cozumel, that the first documented mass in Mexico took place on May 6, 1518, in the process of forced evangelization of the colonizers to the native peoples of the island.

Window to the sea while climbing the Celarain lighthouse (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Punta Sur Beaches

You can’t go to Punta Sur without taking a dip in the beautiful Chunchacab Beach, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Cozumel. In addition to its fine, soft sand, this beach maintains its natural essence, something unfortunately increasingly rare on the island, and you can observe birds looking up and coral formations looking down.

Chunchacab Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

It has hammocks and also several beach restaurants where you can eat something with your feet buried in the sand.

As we told you at the beginning, with the entrance fee you pay when you enter the reserve you don’t have to pay anything and there is no minimum consumption as in the beach clubs of the rest of the island: here you only have to pay what you consume, or you can not consume anything and just enjoy the beach.

Resting on Chuchacab Beach (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Be careful, the beaches of Punta Sur are protected to allow sea turtles to nest, so it is possible that when you go there some of the accesses will be closed. Respect it.

RandomTip: It is precisely here in Punta Sur that you will find one of the famous dive sites of the island, the dive site called Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat). If you have never dived and would like to try it, Cozumel is a good option, you can book your diving baptism in Cozumel here, or if you are already a diver, you can hire a 2-dives tour here In this section of the guide we tell you in which center we dive and in which dive sites on the island.

Chuchacab Beach (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

El Caracol Mayan Ruins: Mayan Heritage in Punta Sur

This small Mayan structure almost goes unnoticed on the way to the lighthouse from the observation tower, but that does not detract from its historical importance.

El Caracol, a Mayan archaeological vestige in Punta Sur (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

This archaeological vestige is dedicated to Ixchel, deity of the Mayan culture, goddess of love, fertility and water, and was built by the Mayan population in the late Postclassic period (900-1517 A.D.). Its name comes from the fact that it is endowed with a dome that was covered with embedded sea shells that produced a buzzing sound in strong winds because the snail functioned as a marker for navigation, warning about the intensity of the winds on the island.

Do you see any of the sea snails still lingering in its dome? (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved.)

According to what we read in the Navigation Museum of the lighthouse building, in its early phase, the Caracol has a west-east alignment towards the Celarian islet, some 550 meters away, and the sunrise can be seen on February 22 and October 20. A later alignment defines the dates February 12 and October 30 in a range of 260 days, which is precisely the length of the pre-Hispanic ritual calendar.

Remember that it is completely forbidden to climb archeological structures in the ecological reserve.

Observation Tower

We climbed this observation tower not only to get an incredible view of the three lagoons within the reserve, the X’tacún, Chunchacab and Colombia lagoons, but also to observe crocodiles (we saw several!) and different species of birds in this biodiverse reserve such as flamingos and herons.

Inês from the Observation Tower where Chris was (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).
Crocodile very close to us, arriving at the Observation Tower (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Swimming is forbidden on the beach just in front of the Observation Tower and it is also forbidden to leave the wooden walkway. Guess why…

RandomTip: If you prefer to go on a tour to Punta Sur and not have to rent a vehicle to get around, you can hire this 4×4 tour of the Punta Sur Ecological Park (with beach club and lunch in another area of the island included).

Snorkeling with starfish in El Cielo

One of the “star activities” (never better said) that you can do in Cozumel is to hire a snorkeling tour around the best spots of the island and contemplate the starfish that inhabit its bottom in El Cielo, one of the main attractions of Cozumel.

Hire your tour to snorkel in Palancar and El Cielo here

Snorkeling in El Cielo and meeting the starfish, one of the most popular reasons to visit Cozumel. Be careful! If you see someone touching a starfish, or doing any kind of action that could harm the local fauna, report it immediately. (Photo by Randomtrip, taken by Memo from Maybe Tours. All rights reserved)

El Cielo is a sandbank in the middle of transparent waters considered a sanctuary for starfish, although it is not the only thing you will see here. If you are lucky you will also see eagle rays and turtles!

The “star” of Cozumel. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

In Randomtrip, we did it with Maybe Tours and the boat carried 10 people including a 4-hour boat tour around the island of Cozumel visiting first the Colombia reef where we saw eagle rays, then stop at the Palancar reef, where we saw a real underwater garden and where, with luck, you can see turtles (although it was not our case).

One of the beautiful eagle rays we saw at Colombia Reef (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)
Palancar Reef (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Then a brief stop at El Cielo to see the starfish (we expected to enjoy more time here but the stop was very short) and finally El Cielito beach, a final stop to have a drink near the shore in one of the most transparent and turquoise waters of the whole tour.

The waters of El Cielo are truly impressive. Book your snorkeling tour to El Cielo and Palancar, some of the best waters on the island, here (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Price: The price of the El Cielo tours starts around 750 pesos/person or 40$ (650 pesos/child 5-11 years old) and depart in the morning (10:00h) and in the afternoon (14:00h). Snorkel gear, fins and vest are included in the tours, as well as some fruit, water, soft drinks or beers.

Hire your tour to snorkel in Palancar and El Cielo here

Hiring the tour to El Cielo was not easy because the agencies gave us different, shady and very changeable prices for the same tour, plus they do not know how to tell you who is the final operator with whom you will do the tour. If you don’t want to worry, book your tour online here (Photo by Randomtrip). All rights reserved)

If you prefer to book online the snorkeling tour as soon as you know which day you are going, you can hire your snorkel tour here

Inês happy in the crystal clear waters of El Cielo (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Important: Promote responsible tourism and if you see someone touching or taking a starfish out of the water, report it to the authorities and to the tour company. In our case, happily, we did not see anyone doing it, although another not recommended practice that we did see was how some guides of other tours were releasing food for the fish during the snorkel, making all the fish go right next to the guide for the “enjoyment” of the people on the tour.

Learn and help to restore coral reefs

As we mentioned, the massive and unsustainable tourism that has grown so much in Cozumel in recent years, together with climate change, is having a negative impact on the coral and marine life for which the island is famous.

Fortunately, initiatives such as the CCRRP (Cozumel Coral Reef Restoration Program) are working to restore the coral reefs, and they offer tours to learn about their work (snorkeling or diving) and you can even participate in the coral restoration itself by taking a 2-day course. You can find more information about the initiative, the tours and courses, as well as prices, on their website: https://www.ccrrp.mx/

Cozumel Beaches and Beach Clubs

As we mentioned at the beginning of the guide, unfortunately Cozumel has embraced a tourist trend that we had already experienced in Tulum, which is the privatization of the beaches that are only available to those who can pay for access to it through the entrance fee and / or minimum consumption in a beach club. The great majority of these beach clubs in Cozumel are located on the west coast of the island, where the beaches are better, with more transparent and calm waters, and they have the particularity, in addition, that not only the prices but also the schedules are adapted to the cruises so many of them close between 16:00h and 17:00h (since the people of the cruises must return before 18:00h).

Beach Club on the west coast with prices directly in dollars (many of the people who come on cruises don’t even have Mexican pesos) and the info in English because it’s not exactly directed to local people… (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

To escape this west coast trend, the ideal is to rent a vehicle (at Randomtrip we rented a scooter) and explore the beaches of the east coast, much less touristically exploited but also wilder, where the wind blows stronger and it is not always easy or even possible to get in. Likewise, there are some free or more affordable ways to enjoy the beautiful beaches of the west coast. Here are our recommendations.

St. Martin beach, on the east coast of the island (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Isla de la Pasión (Passion Island)

There is a private island less than 2 kilometers long located at the northern end of Cozumel, separated by the so-called Laguna Ciega, which hides beautiful beaches and reefs called isla de la Pasión. Three ecosystems (mangrove, jungle and coral reefs) coexist on the island, which was a sacred place for the Mayan people, where they worshipped Ixchel, goddess of love and fertility. At that time, couples made pilgrimages to Mukyaj Peten (the Mayan name for the island) because it was believed that a wedding celebrated here would last for eternity. It is for this reason that today it is called Isla de la Pasión (Passion island) and is a place chosen by many couples to celebrate their wedding.

Passion Island. Photo by México Desconocido

How to get there: On your own, you must go to the Colibrí pier (go slowly as the road is apparently not in very good condition) and park your motorcycle or car there (parking is free). Then take the boat to Isla de la Pasión (150 pesos/person or 8$ round trip) and in less than 10 minutes you are on the island. Don’t forget to arrange the return time with the captain of your boat.

If you prefer to go on a tour, you can book your a shared tour to Passion Island here or a private tour for up to 8 people here

San Francisco Beach

As in practically all the beaches on the west coast of Cozumel, when you arrive at San Francisco Beach you will not only find a beach of fine white sand and turquoise sea, but also a beach club of the same name, the San Francisco Beach Club, which charges a minimum fee of $20 (about 340 pesos) so that you can access the beach and enjoy the services available such as hammocks, restaurant and inflatables (you can buy your Day Pass for San Francisco Beach here). The beach club opens at 9:00h and closes at 17:00h being that at 16:00h the bar and kitchen closes.

The piece of free beach that we found at San Francisco Beach. The inflatables of Mr Sanchos Beach Club in the background (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

However, at this beach we found something rare in Cozumel: a small free entrance to the beach! The entrance (here is the exact spot) is located to the left of the Playa Mia Beach Park, it is discreet and on the gates (open) it says “Access Prohibited, Entry and Exit of Vehicles” to discourage you from passing through here although we remind you that the beaches are public in Mexico, what happens is that they privatize their access… Although it is not a huge sandy area, it is an area wedged between two beach clubs, you can take a dip and lie in the sun without paying a beach club.

Beach Club Playa Mia from the boat, when we went to Palancar Reef on the El Cielo tour (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Free “no name” beaches on the west coast

During our motorcycle rides around the island, on the west coast (where it is practically impossible to access the beach without passing by a hotel and/or beach club), we saw some unmarked accesses where it is possible to leave the motorcycle and access small beaches with white sand, and where to snorkel or just relax for a while.

One of the beaches on the west coast that can be accessed for free. Below we explain how (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

We recommend that you go along the Carretera Costera Sur (the old road, now the one that goes around the island is the C-1), while you can (as you go down, you will reach a point where access for motor vehicles is prohibited, as it has been set aside for cycling), and that you go slowly to pay attention to those spots (you can see them from the road). If you want, you can put this point in your GPS to access the road and from there continue without leaving. If you want to plan ahead, you can also use the “Street view” mode of Google Maps to identify some of these places.

The ideal is to go slowly and with a watchful eye, with your motorcycle or buggy, along the southern coastal road and you will find surprises like this (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Palancar Beach

To enjoy Palancar Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and the closest to the famous El Cielo, you will also have to access its beach club, Playa Palancar Cozumel Beach Club. While it used to be a quite recommendable option as it had a low mandatory minimum consumption, since the end of 2023 it is now mandatory to pay an entrance fee regardless of whether you consume or not, limiting its access. You have two options to enter:

  • Pay 350 pesos or 20$ (15$ for children from 5 to 11 years old): includes access, a welcome cocktail and other facilities (hammocks, swimming pools and bathrooms) and if you want a Balinese bed, the price is 27$.
  • Pay 45$ ($35 for children 5 to 11 years old): includes, in addition to access, 10 minutes of kayaking, 2 drinks (water, soft drink or beer) and a choice of nachos or hamburger.
Entrance to the Playa Palancar Beach Club (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

This beach club opens at 9:00h and closes at 17:00h (the time when most cruise passengers return to the ships). When we arrived at the beach to find out how to enjoy it, at 13:00h, we were told that there were no more hammocks available so our advice is that if you want to go, you better get up early because the cruise people will do it. The music and decibels in the beach club were anything but relaxing so if you are looking to party, it may be a good option, but as a beach to relax and enjoy, it doesn’t seem the right place. At Randomtrip we finally did not enter this one.

Beach Club of Playa Palancar, from the outside (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Skyreef Beach Club

It is not a beach as such since it has no sand, but the Skyreef Beach Club Cozumel is an excellent spot for snorkeling, since it has a small access to the water and in the water several rocky areas where there is a lot of marine life.

Skyreef Beach Club snorkeling access (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

It was one of the beach clubs we visited on Randomtrip because it had only minimal but reasonable consumption (one drink per person), and it has hammocks to rest, tables and chairs, etc.

The Skyreef Beach Club is more recommended for snorkeling than for the beach as it does not have a sandy beach but it does have hammocks where you can relax after snorkeling (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).
Besides snorkeling, we enjoyed a beautiful and calm sunset, after most of the express cruise visitors left around 4:00 p.m. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved.)

Mr Sanchos

Another beach club we visited at Randomtrip on the west coast is Mr. Sanchos, which has a beach, hammocks where you can relax and they let us in with a minimum consumption of one drink per person (because we arrived late, around 15:00h, and they close at 17:00, although at 16:30 they close the bar service and start picking up the hammocks).

Beach Club Mr. Sanchos around 4:30 p.m… with the hammocks packed (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

It also has a swimming pool, and on the beach itself there is a giant area with inflatables. If you arrive early, the cheapest entrance fee is 5$ per person without access to the pool, the buffet or the inflatables, since these areas are reserved for those who pay the all-inclusive entrance fee.

Beach Club Mr. Sanchos (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

El Mirador Beach

El Mirador beach is already located on the east coast of the island where the wildest beaches are, not privatized and less exploited for tourism (which contrasts with the west coast).

El Mirador Beach, on the east coast of the island (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

In the case of El Mirador beach when we went there the sea was so rough and the wind so strong that it was impossible to get in so we just enjoyed the scenery. It is called El Mirador because it is a good spot for bird watching.

El MIrador Beach (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Playa Bonita (Beautiful Beach)

One of the most popular beaches for surfers in Cozumel is Playa Bonita because it is characterized precisely by the presence of strong winds, which makes it ideal for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing .

Playa Bonita, Cozumel. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

A curiosity about this beach is that a crocodile was spotted surfing the waves here in the summer of 2023…

It seems that not only people surf the waves of Playa Bonita… (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

San Martin Beach

Another beach on the east coast of the island and, therefore, less crowded, is Playa San Martin. It is a practically virgin and very uncrowded place that covers 3 miles of coastline. Although the crystal-clear waters are appealing, caution is advised when swimming due to the strong currents. At Randomtrip we did not get to swim but we enjoyed the views from its lookout point.

San Martin Beach viewpoint (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

If you prefer to hire a tour, this jeep tour along the east coast of Cozumel includes a stop at San Martin Beach , a visit to the Jade Cavern, a swim in a cenote and a visit to a tequila factory, with transfers, lunch and snorkeling included.

San Martin beach with red flag (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Chen Rio Beach

As we had read that it was one of the best or even the best beach on the east coast of Cozumel, we had high expectations (something you should never do on a trip, better to always have adjusted expectations) and the truth is that we were a little disappointed with Chen Rio.

Chen Rio Beach (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Its name comes from the river that formerly flowed through the sea and formed this beach and its mangroves. What stands out about Chen Rio are the rocky blocks that form a huge natural pool separated and safe from the sea currents where it is always calm and ideal for swimming, something unusual on this coast.

The rocky blocks form a huge natural pool separated and safe from the currents, and is a favorite of young and old alike. Chen Rio Beach (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)
Chen Rio Beach (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

There are also several restaurants around here where you can eat or have a drink. In case you don’t want to, you can simply enjoy the beach, free of charge.

Chen Rio beach, on the right, where the sea currents are already stronger (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Punta Morena Beach

Considered the best surfing beach on the island, Punta Morena is one of the last strongholds of unspoiled beaches on the island. That said, if you are more of a dip than to catch waves with the board, this may not be your best option.

San Gervasio Ruins

San Gervasio, the main archaeological site of Cozumel is in theory dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility, childbirth, medicine and weaving. For that reason, Mayan women from the various settlements of the Yucatan peninsula made the pilgrimage to the Ixchel shrine in Cozumel at some point in their lives.

For the Mayan people, the island of Cozumel was important, not only for sheltering the shrine to the goddess Ixchel but also as an important trading port (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

However, according to the National Institute of Archaeology of Mexico (INAH), these references actually correspond to a Mayan settlement destroyed during the Spanish colonization that was located where the city of San Miguel de Cozumel is now. Let’s remember that Juan de Grijalva arrived to the island with 4 galleons in 1518 and a year later, in 1519, Hernán Cortés arrived and was in charge of destroying most of the Mayan altars and settlements. Supposedly it was in that Mayan settlement where the oracle of the goddess Ixchel was located, while in the settlement of San Gervasio no archaeological evidence has been found that relates it to the cult of Ixchel.

Kana Nah (Tall House) structure in San Gervasio, one of the largest in the archaeological zone (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

For the Mayan people, the island of Cozumel was important, not only for sheltering the sanctuary to the goddess Ixchel , but also as a port of exchange. From 1000 A.D., with the emergence of Chichén Itzá as the great political and economic center of the Yucatán peninsula, San Gervasio was integrated into an increasingly intense economic network, which led it to become a great city from 1200 A.D. onwards. During the Late Postclassic period (1200 – 1450 A.D.), most of the structures that can be visited today were built, establishing a network of smaller communities, dependent on San Gervasio and located throughout the island of Cozumel.

The Pet Nah (Round House) structure was one of the most important structures in San Gervasio during the Late Classic period (600-1000 A.D.) since this was the ruling center of the site, where the lord resided. (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved.)

On the island there are more than thirty Mayan settlements with evidence of occupation, of which a dozen are archaeological sites, although not all are open to the public. The archaeological sites you can visit in Cozumel are San Gervasio, El Caracol (within the Punta Sur Ecotourism Park) and El Cedral, in the small community of the same name in the south of the island.

Structure Nohoch Nah (Big House), a temple of obligatory point in the entrance or exit of San Gervasio for being precisely in the Sacbé 1 (the sacbés are the white roads that connected important points in the Mayan settlements). It had an altar in the middle of the enclosure where offerings were deposited (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Price San Gervasio Ruins: 221 pesos/person (14$)

  • INAH entrance fee: 95 pesos/person
  • Cozumel Parks and Museums Foundation Entrance Fee: 126 pesos/person

Hours: Monday to Sunday from 09:00h to 15:30h.

The structure “Las Columnas” is composed of seven columns, a sidewalk that runs inside and a throne or altar and served to deposit six burials next to which several offerings were found (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

How to get there: The archaeological site of San Gervasio is located 7 km east of San Miguel de Cozumel and is easily accessible through the island’s transversal road if you have your own vehicle, that is, if you have rented a car or motorcycle on the island (or if you brought the vehicle on the ferry from Playa del Carmen). In case you don’t have a vehicle, you can hire a tour to San Gervasio here or this tour here which includes visiting several places in Cozumel

A family of coatis greeted us as we left the archaeological site of San Gervasio, in the parking lot. We managed to take a picture of this one (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

San Miguel de Cozumel

The small town of San Miguel de Cozumel is where we made our Randomtrip exploration base, just a few meters from the port where you can walk from the ferry to the island and back, and with plenty of options for lunch and dinner. In our case, we stayed at the Puerto Libre Hotel.

At Randomtrip we stayed at the Puerto Libre Hotel, in a room with a terrace and sea view, within walking distance of the ferry.

Although the most interesting things to do on the island are just outside the city, there are some interesting things to do here.

Cozumel Island Museum

This museum dedicated to the history, culture and ecosystem of Cozumel was recently renovated and currently has 11 interactive rooms to learn more about the origin, natural diversity and resilience of the local people, a room dedicated to the carnival tradition of the island and a couple of spaces reserved for the various temporary exhibitions that pass through here.

Price: 170 pesos/person or 10$ (free admission for children under 3 years old).

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. Closed on Mondays.

Coral Reef Monument

On the other side of the street but very close to the museum, on the same avenue, is this monument where many people come to take a picture, especially beautiful at sunset. It is located right next to the port and has become an emblematic point of Cozumel. The sculpture is intended to alert to the importance of coral conservation, a unique ecosystem, especially here, where the second largest barrier reef in the world passes and where diving on its reefs is one of the island’s attractions. It is, at least, curious (not to say cynical) the presence of this monument considering the tourist trend that Cozumel has embraced where respect for the environment (and, therefore, the coral reef) is neglected to the detriment of respect for the dollar. The hope remains that this monument will serve as a reminder of the importance and reverse, at some point, the bad decisions (and management) that are being carried out in Cozumel today.

Monument to the Coral Reefs, a monument that seems to us somewhat cynical on this island…

If you prefer to get to know San Miguel de Cozumel by the hand of someone with whom you can learn a lot, you can take this 3-hour guided tour with a guide where you will visit the most emblematic places of San Miguel de Cozumel.

Get inspired by the Instagram stories of our visit to Cozumel

You can see the featured Instagram stories about our visit to Cozumel here.

Diving in Cozumel

The island of Cozumel is also well known for its snorkeling and scuba diving due to the biodiversity that characterizes its seabed.

We remind you that here you can dive in part of the second largest reef in the world, with very good visibility, and see several species of coral, turtles, eagle rays, and more than 300 species of fish. In addition, there are dive sites for all levels, from beginner to advanced. From the reefs of Palancar, Colombia, Paraíso, Punta Tunich, Chankanaab, Santa Rosa to the underwater cave Garganta del Diablo or the Felipe Xicoténcatl wreck.

Hire a 2-dives tour in Cozumel here

Inês, happy, about to dive in Santa Rosa (Photo by Randomtrip – All rights reserved).

At RandomTrip we did it with Dive with Martin and we liked it very much. In this case Inês decided to do a refresh of two dives (she had not been diving for too many months) and the price was 2820 pesos (or 140$) for two dives with equipment included and a divemaster for her alone on both dives; they also let Chris go on the same boat to snorkel while Inês was diving (although they normally charge 35$ for this).

She loved the Santa Rosa dive site. The Santa Rosa wall is part of the Great Mayan Reef and is a drop off into the stunning blue, in the southwest of the island. Passing through the small arches and tunnels covered in colorful corals and greeting fish of a thousand colors was amazing.

Inês going down to Santa Rosa (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

If you have never dived and would like to try it, Cozumel is an ideal place to do it. If you are up for it, book your scuba diving baptism in Cozumel here.

Inês happy about to dive in part of the second largest barrier reef in the world, in Cozumel. If you have never dived and would like to try it, Cozumel is an excellent option. You can book here your diving baptism in Cozumel

If you prefer to contemplate the marine fauna without but you don’t dive, you can book this snorkeling tour to see turtles, eagle rays and colorful fish.

Hello star! Snorkel tour passing by El Cielo (Photo by Randomtrip, taken by Memo from Maybe Tours. All rights reserved)

Where to stay in Cozumel

At Randomtrip in Cozumel we gave ourselves a treat because the days we spent on the island coincided with both Chris’ birthday and Christmas Eve, so we chose a hotel in San Miguel de Cozumel that was comfortable, centrally located, walking distance from the port, close to several dining options and the main square, and also a room with an ocean view: the Hotel Puerto Libre.

Our room at the Hotel Puerto Libre was huge, with a terrace overlooking the sea and a king size bed (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

The Hotel Puerto Libre has the particularity that it was the first hotel on the island and, in addition, it has recently been renovated. It has several types of rooms (from 119$/night) and, in our case, we stayed in the King Ocean View room. In addition to these views, the room was very spacious, the shower was amazing and the bed was one of the most comfortable we slept in during the whole trip.

Who needs TV with this show (even so, there was a huge TV in the room at the Hotel Puerto Libre). (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Hotel Puerto Libre also has a swimming pool, not very big, and serves breakfast a la carte. With sea views, of course.

Breakfast at the Puerto Libre Hotel(Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

More downtown options in San Miguel de Cozumel:

  • Casa Isabella (from 34$/night): double rooms in hotel in the center with swimming pool, hot tub and barbecue.
Casa Isabella. Photo by Booking
Xiknal Cozumel. Photo by Booking
  • Illa Cozumel (from 133$/night): one of the best options in the center, this hotel is very nice and has a beautiful garden and swimming pool. In addition, breakfast is included and each room has an area to work. It was the other option we considered for these days but they did not have availability.
Illa Cozumel. Photo by Booking

More hotels in downtown Cozumel here

If you don’t mind staying outside of San Miguel de Cozumel, where most restaurants, stores and the port are located, and prefer the relaxation of a hotel, resort or all-inclusive with access to the beach, although with more limited movement (and gastronomic) options, then keep an eye on these accommodations:

  • Maia Suites (from 141$/night): suites, some with whirlpool bath, 2 min walk to Paradise Beach, outdoor swimming pool, free private parking and garden.
Maia Suites. Photo by Booking
Luxurious and espacious new condo Ocean View. Photo by Booking
  • Presidente InterContinental Cozumel Resort & Spa (from 246$/night): if you are looking for an all-inclusive beachfront resort, this hotel has privatized access to the beach (where you can also snorkel), restaurants, 2 outdoor pools, fitness center, 2 tennis courts and spa with massage service. We do not know the service offered because at Randomtrip we try not to stay in all-inclusive and big hotel chains but those who went say it is one of the best of its kind on the island.
Presidente InterContinental Cozumel Resort & Spa. Photo by Booking

Remember that the prices mentioned are approximate and may change depending on the type of room and the season.

Best restaurants in Cozumel

  • Vegan Barrio in Callejón de la Diez: surprisingly in Cozumel we found one of the best vegan restaurants of the trip. It is inside Callejón de la Diez, a place with several food, drink and dessert stands. We paid 340 pesos for 10 tacos (5 tacos de canasta and 5 tacos dorados) and 2 beers (about 18$).
Vegan Barrio: we liked it so much that we repeated the experience.

There are several dining options in Callejón de la Diez and the space is cool!

  • La Cuisine: another tasty option with several vegetarian and vegan options
  • Crazy King Burrito: famous for its burritos, we ordered 2 to go and a coke and paid 335 pesos (about 18$).
  • Burritos Gorditos: the day we were going back to Playa del Carmen we wanted some burritos to go, the Crazy King Burrito was closed and we went to this one next door, they are also very good! We paid 250 pesos for a burrito and a quesadilla to go (about 14$).
  • Jolly Cafe: we went for breakfast on Chris’s birthday, the girls who served us were very nice and helped to organize a little surprise for Chris (a brownie with a candle to blow), which also did not want to charge! The breakfasts are tasty, although a bit expensive, but of good quality. We paid 600 pesos for 2 breakfasts, 2 coffees and an orange juice (about 32$).
  • Guido’s: tourist Italian restaurant (most of the clientele when we went was from the US) and somewhat expensive, but of excellent quality, the lasagna especially was amazing. We paid 1000 pesos (about 50$) for a garlic bread, a pasta with garlic and shrimp, a lasagna and 2 beers. Not cheap, but we still think about that lasagna today.
  • Fonda Don José: we didn’t get to go but it was recommended to us for local and cheap food.
  • Taqueria Molina: we didn’t go either, but it was recommended to us for cheap tacos, in the market (only open in the morning until 1:00 pm).

We tried some other options at the beach clubs we visited, but we cannot really recommend them, as the food at the beach clubs has very inflated prices and the quality is not really good.

Cozumel Itineraries

Things to do in Cozumel in 1 day

Many people who come to the Riviera Maya or the Yucatan Peninsula on a tight schedule dedicate only one day to visit Cozumel, either on an organized tour from Playa del Carmen or other points along the coast, or using the ferry from Playa del Carmen (the first ferry from Playa del Carmen leaves at 8:00h, and the last one from Cozumel leaves at 21:00h, depending on the time of the year).

If your case is the second one, here is our suggested itinerary for a day in Cozumel:

  • As you arrive, start with the snorkeling tour that goes through El Cielo and other spots where you can see starfish, turtles, eagle rays, lots of fish and corals. You can hire it here for 10:00h.
  • Afterwards, choose between:
    • Spend the afternoon at a beach club enjoying the beach (or go to the free beach listed in the guide and bring your own food to save money).
    • Go to Punta Sur Park (with your own vehicle if you bring it on the ferry, rent a vehicle on the island or hire a tour) and drive around the island stopping at other beaches on the east coast.
    • Visit the Archaeological Zone of San Gervasio (with your own vehicle if you bring it on the ferry, renting a vehicle on the island or hiring a tour).

Things to do in Cozumel in 2 days

With two days in Cozumel you can combine several of the plans to get to know more things, here is our suggested 2 day itinerary in Cozumel:

Things to do in Cozumel in 3 days

In our opinion and based on our experience on the island, 3 days is the perfect amount of days to get to know Cozumel. Here is the 3-day itinerary for Cozumel that we consider ideal to see all that the island has to offer:

How to get around Cozumel

The best way to get around the island and get to know it on your own, away from the bubble where all the cruise ships stop, is to rent a vehicle: a motorcycle (what we did in Randomtrip), a buggy (more expensive than the motorcycle but more common on the island), a car or a jeep, both good options if you have no experience in driving a motorcycle. Cab fares are generally very inflated so we do not recommend this option unless you have no other choice. If you have your own car or have rented a car for your trip to visit other areas of the Yucatan peninsula, you can also bring your car on the ferry to get around Cozumel.

At Randomtrip we rented a motorcycle for the days we were on the island to explore it on our own. Here, exploring Punta Sur (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

At Randomtrip we rented a scooter for 4 days to explore the island with HTL Rentals and everything went well. The scooter was quite old, but it didn’t give us any problems. The price was 400 pesos/day (about 20$), including liability and collision with an excess (they call it deductible) of 5000 pesos (which they block on the credit card and unblock it when you return the scooter). The return was easy and fast and they did not put any problem.

Randomtrip with the motorcycle through Punta Sur (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

The price is high, considering that the scooters are quite old, but it was one of the best options we found since all services in Cozumel are expensive, inflated and oriented to cruise ships and US tourism on the island.

A joy to drive around Punta Sur and the east coast of the island, where there are hardly any cars (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

If you prefer to rent a buggy to explore the island more comfortably (you will see that it is the favorite means of transportation for cruisers), HTL told us that the price for the manual transmission buggy was 1000 pesos/day (50$) and the automatic buggy 1300 pesos/day (65$).

When you get to the island you will see that buggies are the most common form of transportation (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Is it easy/safe to drive in Cozumel?

In our opinion, yes, it is easy and safe to drive in Cozumel.

The road around the island is generally in good condition and traffic during our visit in high season (Christmas) was not too much, especially after passing the first stretch of beach clubs on the west coast.

The road around the island is in good condition (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Some tips:

  • Whether you rent a motorcycle, car, buggy or any other type of vehicle, you should know that in Cozumel (and, based on our experience, in Mexico in general) there is an unwritten rule that says that if there is a free shoulder (especially on roads outside the town), you must pull over and drive on the shoulder if someone faster than you is coming from behind, to let them pass.
  • To access the Punta Sur park, once you pay the entrance fee, the road is not asphalted and has many holes. It is totally feasible by motorcycle or any other type of vehicle, but you must go slowly and pay attention to those holes/potholes so you don’t get a scare, damage the vehicle or have an accident.
  • Within San Miguel de Cozumel, the streets are laid out in a grid pattern, and in general the streets parallel to the sea have priority, while those perpendicular to the sea must stop at each intersection with the parallel ones. When in doubt, stop at the crossroads.
  • You will come across several “speedbumps” (topes) put in place by the government and/or the local population to force vehicles to slow down. Some are well marked, others are not, so always be careful to drive slowly over them.
  • If you rent a car, check with your accommodation to find out if they have parking space or to find out where you can park safely.
  • When you go down the west coast (the one in front of Playa del Carmen, where the best beaches are located and where all the hotels and beach clubs are), we recommend, especially if you go by motorcycle, to go along the old coastal road (you can put this point in the GPS to access it, and once inside simply continue until it is forbidden, as there is a stretch limited to bicycles).
Coatí Crossing (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

If you don’t want to drive or don’t have time to explore the island on your own, you can simply walk around downtown (if you are staying near the port, you can even take this guided tour) or in your accommodation by the beach (you can hire here transfers to and from the port or airport of Cozumel if you need) and hire a tour for the points you are interested in visiting on the island:

Window to the sea at the Celarain Lighthouse (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

How to have internet in Cozumel

To always have internet on your smartphone, the easiest and most convenient way (if your phone supports eSIM) is to buy an eSIM from Holafly, which has unlimited data (you get a 5% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP), or to buy an eSIM from Airalo, cheaper but with limited data (15% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP15)

The other option, cheaper but more cumbersome, is to buy a local SIM, which we recommend is from Telcel (the main telecom company in Mexico, with more coverage).

Thanks to the internet in our phones we were able to talk with our families on Christmas Eve from the middle of the sea! (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Safety: Is it safe to travel to Cozumel?

Cozumel, as a tourist bubble dedicated to cruises, is a totally safe island. Honestly, the assaults we experienced on the island are totally legalized, that is, we felt robbed and ripped off in lodging, tours and scooter rentals, not in any kind of theft that could have happened to us.

In any case, if anything should happen, we always have our Iati travel insurance (which also covers our belongings) as in all our trips and gives us more peace of mind. If you contract your travel insurance in this Randomtrip link, you will get it with a 5% discount.

Inês spotting crocodiles in Punta Sur (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Money in Cozumel: cards to save fees

To pay and withdraw money in Mexico while minimizing fees, we recommend the 2 cards we use in our case:

  • Revolut: with the standard version up to 1000$ without commission on card payments (remember to always pay in local currency – Mexican pesos). Up to 400$ of withdrawals at ATMs without commission, from then on commission of 1%.
  • N26: with the free version you can pay with your card without commissions in an unlimited way. For ATM withdrawals, you pay 1.7% commission, which you can eliminate by paying for the monthly plans You (the one we use) or Metal.

It is important to keep in mind that although your card does not charge a fee for ATM withdrawals, ATMs in Mexico do charge a fee for their use. The ones that charge the least are Banamex (31 pesos, 1.7$), Banco Santander (34 pesos, 1.8$) or Banco Azteca (34 pesos, 1.8$), so when withdrawing money try to withdraw as much as possible to save money.

Another important issue when withdrawing money at an ATM in Mexico: many times the ATM will ask you if you want the transaction to be done in local currency (Mexican pesos) or in your own currency (in our case, it was euros): always choose the local currency option, otherwise, it will apply an unfavorable exchange rate and you will be overpaying (as a hidden commission).

The above also applies to card payments (although the option almost never appears, on several occasions also when paying with a card in establishments we were shown an amount in euros instead of pesos). In our case it almost always happened to us with the orange CLIP terminals. If this happens to you, ask the person to charge you in Mexican pesos.

A bad practice in Mexico is that in any business where you want to pay with a card, they have the habit of asking you for your card and do the whole process themselves, passing you the terminal only to enter the PIN (in Mexico they call it “firma” or NIP). This means that sometimes, depending on the type of terminal, you do not see the amount and/or you are charged in the original currency of your card instead of in Mexican pesos – making you lose money because an unfavorable conversion is applied. Always ask nicely to be allowed to see the process to make sure you are charged the correct amount and in local currency.

Finally, some establishments charge an extra commission for payment by card (the times it happened to us, it was 5%), they always tell you before and if you do not see it when confirming the amount. In those cases, it is better to pay with cash.

Tipping: The tipping culture is very well established in Mexico, and although it is not and cannot be obligatory by law, it is in practice, since it is frowned upon not to leave a tip. It is recommended to leave a minimum of 10% (usually you will be asked at the time of payment, and if you pay by credit card, the terminal usually gives you the option of adding 10, 15 or 20% as a tip).

“Feliz Navimar, prosperous year and happiness” (Photo by Randomtrip, taken by Memo from Maybe Tours. All rights reserved)

How much does a trip to Cozumel cost?

Making a budget is complex as it depends greatly on your type of trip: how many plans you want to include in your trip, if you are going to go to restaurants or cook to save money, the type of accommodation you are going to book… In any case, so you can get an idea, we leave below the average prices and what we consider as average price per day (we reiterate that these are ORIENTATIVE prices and may vary at any time):

  • Flights/transportation within Mexico: From 550 pesos (30$) round trip ferry from Playa del Carmen. From 2100 pesos (120$) a round-trip flight from Mexico City. Use flight comparators like Skyscanner and Kiwi to find the best price.
  • Transportation: From 400 pesos per day (about 20$) to rent a motorcycle to travel around the island.
  • Accommodation: from 650 pesos/night (about 35$/night) for a room with private bathroom or small apartment with kitchen. Find accommodation of all types and prices on Booking, with up to 15% discount.
  • Restaurants: a multitude of options between 120 and 500 pesos per person (between 6$ and 25$ per person), for all tastes.
  • Entrance fees: some places require an entrance fee (Punta sur 357 pesos – 22$-, San Gervasio 221 pesos -14$-, beach clubs with minimum consumption from 100 pesos -5$-…).

In total, a weekend trip (2 nights) to Cozumel can cost you between 1000 and 1400 pesos per person per day (between 50 and 70$), with the cheapest lodging options, eating out in the cheapest restaurants and visiting the paying places (Punta Sur, San Gervasio, and at least one beach club), leaving from Playa del Carmen by ferry. To this you will have to add getting to Playa del Carmen or the cost of the flight to Cozumel.

Enjoying the waters of Cozumel is becoming more and more expensive… (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

Useful Apps to get around Cozumel

  • Google Maps (Android / iOS): is the one we use to save/classify all the places we want to go/ have gone and as GPS both to orient ourselves on the island and if we rent a car/motorbike. It also includes public transport information to see the best route and prices when moving around. You can see other people’s opinions of the places, photos, restaurant menus, telephone numbers to contact them, etc. You can also open our map with all the places included in this guide.
  • Maps.me (Android / iOS): application similar to Google Maps but works offline (although Google Maps can also work offline, it works better) and in many cases has information that Google Maps does not have.
  • Windy (Android / iOS / Web): essential app for our trips. It allows you to see forecasts of rain, clouds, wind, etc. to help you plan your days based on the weather (as there are places that lose a lot depending on the weather). Obviously the forecasts are not 100% reliable.
  • Enter this website if you want to check how many cruise ships dock in Cozumel every day. At Randomtrip this website was super useful to define our route and try to escape the crowds, although depending on the season it is difficult. On the worst day of our stay, there were 7 cruise ships! on the island….
Cozumel, the cruise-island. RandomTIP: on days when several cruise ships arrive on the island, avoid the beach clubs on the west coast…

Tips for traveling to Cozumel as a responsible tourist

  • Don’t be an accomplice to animal abuse: don’t go to any attraction where animals are in captivity and/or used for human entertainment. This means not going to attractions that are true aberrations such as Sting Ray Beach, the Dolphinarium or Chankanaab Park (where they keep animals in captivity). Also, if you see someone on the famous El Cielo tour touching a starfish, or doing any kind of action that could harm the local wildlife, report it immediately.
  • Be responsible when visiting a place: a large influx of people to a certain site can have a negative impact so respect the rules, do not climb the tree/monument you are visiting, do not paint on its walls, avoid touching and, out of respect for the rest of the people visiting the place, do not make noise or “monopolize” the place with your photos.
  • Take care of natural and archaeological monuments and respect existing rules.
  • If you rent a car or motorcycle, respect the speed limits on the road
  • Avoid the use of plastic and do not throw garbage away
  • Respect other people: don’t play your music loud; pick up your trash; don’t throw cigarette butts, etc. Leave the place better than you found it.
  • Always travel with travel insurance: medical expenses, theft or problems with your plane on a trip can cost you a lot of money, so the ideal thing is to take out travel insurance. At Randomtrip we always use IATI and we recommend it. If you purchase your insurance through this link you have a 5% discount.
Crocodile in the wild, in its home, Punta Sur Ecological Reserve (Photo by Randomtrip. All rights reserved).

Checklist: what to pack in your backpack/suitcase for Cozumel

Here is a list of must-haves you can’t forget to take with you on your trip to Cozumel:

  • International plug adapter such as these as they use type A plugs (those with two flat parallel pins).
  • reusable water bottle like one of these to carry water with you all the time and void single-use plastic.
  • Water Shoes as these ideal to carry always with you to avoid hurting your feet when entering the water or not touching the ground.
  • Snorkel kit (mask and snorkel) like this, a must to bring on this trip and contemplate the seabed. Besides being more hygienic because you do not share your snorkel with anyone, in several places they do not rent the equipment and, even if they do rent, with a couple of times you already amortize the price of your own kit.
  • Water proof dry bag like this one, very useful to keep your photographic equipment, cell phone and wallet safe from getting wet on the boat (whales sometimes blow near the boat or even hit the water with their fin or tail near the boat, and water can reach the boat).
  • UV protection T-shirt like this because in some parts of the Mexican Caribbean it is forbidden or not recommended to use sunscreen / sunblock because its composition damages the marine ecosystem.
  • Quick-drying towel such as one of these, which, in addition, does not take up much space in the backpack/suitcase.
  • A hat or a cap (like this one) and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun
  • A good camera to register your adventures. At Randomtrip we carry a Sony ZV-E10 and a Gopro Hero12 Black (for underwater pictures)
  • A Power bank: taking so many pictures will drain your batteries, so it’s always a good idea to carry a good powerbank. At Randomtrip we travel with these 2 (Anker 20000 mAh and  Anker 10000 mAh), which allow us to charge both our phones and our cameras.
  • Sun screen: the sun is strong in Riviera Maya and Mexican Caribbean so it is a must to take care of your skin. Always look for a Coral Friendly Sunscreen, i.e. one that protects your skin without harming marine ecosystems by avoiding ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are harmful to corals. Nor that it has been tested on animals.
  • Mosquito repellent: like this one, it should have at least 15% deet
  • First aid kit: In our first-aid kit there is always a medicine against seasickness (such as biodramine for seasickness on boats), antibiotics, anti-diarrhea medication (and a probiotic to recover more quickly), antihistamines, painkillers and antipyretics and, of course, travel insurance. If you hire your travel insurance with IATI using this link you will get a 5% discount

We hope this guide has been useful when organizing your trip to Cozumel, helping you on what to do and what to avoid on the island. If you have any questions or updates, please leave us a comment, thanks, Randomtripper!

Undoubtedly, a different Christmas (Photo by Randomtrip, taken by Memo from Maybe Tours. All rights reserved)

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