Oaxaca travel guide: Best things to see and do in the city and nearby [with MAP]

Traveling to Oaxaca fulfills the idea we have of traveling to a Mexican city in our collective imagination (in which movies like Coco, which is partly inspired by Oaxaca, have had a lot to do with). As soon as we set foot in it, the city welcomed us with one of its calendas that flood the streets with colors, flowers, festivities and joy. But if it is simplistic and reductive to speak of the concept of “Mexican city” in a country as diverse and heterogeneous as Mexico, it is especially so in Oaxaca.

We are talking about the capital of one of the most culturally diverse states in the world (where dozens of different ethnic groups coexist with their own languages, customs and traditions), with a natural diversity that combines mountains, beaches, with some of the most remarkable archaeological sites, historic towns, and a food scene that has made it be considered the gastronomic capital of Mexico. For all that we experienced in Oaxaca and its surroundings, being that some reasons cannot be described by words but by living it in first person, Oaxaca became our favorite city in Mexico.

Its rich and deep-rooted traditions make Oaxaca one of the most interesting places in the country to enjoy the famous Day of the Dead celebrations, so if living this special Mexican event, from curiosity and respect, is on your travel wish list, we anticipate that it is a wise choice to choose Oaxaca to do so (booking everything well in advance).

Although its growing pains are noticeable, especially for the local population that is suffering the consequences of touristification and gentrification, the Oaxacan people were among the friendliest we encountered on our 6-month trip around the country.

In this guide we tell you all the things to see and do in Oaxaca and its surroundings with specific itineraries for 1, 2, 3 or 4 days, with practical suggestions, where to stay and even what to eat and where to make your trip as incredible as ours was.

Basic facts for traveling to Oaxaca

Language: Spanish

Currency: MXN ($) Mexican Peso (1$ equals 20$ MXN approx.). Check the updated exchange rate here

Population: 715,000 (in 2021)

When to visit: The ideal months are the winter ones (December to March), October/November for Day of the Dead, or July for the Guelaguetza. We detail more about when to visit Oaxaca in this section of the guide.

How long to stay: 3-4 days to get to know the city and some of the surrounding areas. In this section we share specific itineraries for Oaxaca to help you organize your trip.

How to get there: there are some direct flithts from the US, or you can fly to other big airports like Cancun or Mexico City, and from there another flight to Oaxaca (or ADO bus from Mexico City) so we recommend that you use flight comparators like Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with dates to get the best possible price. We’ll tell you more in this section of the guide.

Visa: With a US, Canadian, European or UK passport it is not necessary to obtain a visa. Upon arrival in Mexico, it will be enough to show your valid passport, and depending on your departure date, you will be given up to a maximum of 180 days. Although Mexico does not require a passport with at least 6 months validity, some airlines do, so it’s better to comply.

Where to stay: Ideally you should stay in downtown Oaxaca (at Randomtrip we stayed a few nights at Parador Monte Carmelo) or in the Jalatlaco neighborhood(at Randomtrip we stayed in this apartment). More details in the Where to Stay in Oaxaca section of the guide.

What to bring: A good travel insurance (in this link we give you a 5% discount on the one we always carry) and here is the list of what you must have in your backpack for this trip

How to get around: The best option is walking (downtown) or Didi (taxi app for longer trips). To explore the surroundings you have the option of public transportation, renting a car to move around freely, or hiring organized tours. More info on how to get around Oaxaca in this section of the guide.

How much it costs: From 800 MXN (40$)/day per person (approx.) depending on the type of accommodation, meals and how much you want to explore the surroundings (excluding flights to get there). More budget information in this section of the guide.

Vaccines: there are some recommended vaccines if you travel to Mexico, you can check them here

Internet connection: If you are visiting for a few days, your phone supports eSIM and you don’t want to complicate things, we recommend Holafly eSIM (unlimited data, 5% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP) or Airalo eSIM (limited data, but cheaper, 15% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP15). Otherwise, the cheapest way is to get a local SIM (the main companies are Vodafone, Meo and Nos). More info here

Time zone: UTC -6

Where is Oaxaca

The city of Oaxaca (Oaxaca de Juárez) is located in southern Mexico, in the eponymous state of Oaxaca. The state of Oaxaca borders Chiapas in the east, Veracruz and Puebla in the north, and Guerrero in the west. Here you can see the location of the city of Oaxaca within Mexico:

And in this other more detailed map you can see the location of the city of Oaxaca and other important points of the state such as Puerto Escondido, Bahías de Huatulco or Chacahua:

When to visit Oaxaca

To choose the best time to visit Oaxaca there are two main factors to consider: the weather and the tourist demand. Here we detail when to visit Oaxaca based on them.

Weather in Oaxaca

The weather in Oaxaca is hot all year round, with maximum temperatures always above 25º. However, between May and October is the rainy season, so the best months to visit Oaxaca are from November to April.

If you can’t stand the heat, April and May are usually the hottest months (in our case we went in March and already suffered quite high temperatures).

Here is a summary table of the weather in Oaxaca to give you an idea of what to expect:

Weather chart for Oaxaca City, with temperatures and rainy days per month:

Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Rainy days
January	9º	26º	1
February	10º	28º	2
March	12º	29º	2
April	14º	31º	5
May	16º	30º	11
June	16º	27º	19
July	15º	26º	20
August	15º	26º	20
September	15º	26º	19
October	13º	26º	10
November	11º	26º	3
December	9º	26º	1
Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Rainy days

Regarding the coast of Oaxaca, this is the summary of the weather in Puerto Escondido:

Table of the weather in Puerto Escondido, with temperatures and rainy days per month:

Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Water temperature (average)	Rainy days
January	22º	34º	28º	0
February	23º	35º	28º	1
March	24º	34º	28º	1
April	25º	35º	29º	2
May	26º	34º	29º	7
June	26º	34º	30º	14
July	26º	34º	30º	14
August	26º	34º	30º	15
September	26º	33º	30º	15
October	25º	34º	29º	8
November	24º	35º	29º	1
December	22º	34º	28º	0
Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Water temperature (average)	Rainy days

Festivities, important events and tourist demand in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a land full of culture and traditions where there is always some celebration or festivity so chances are that when you go there you will enjoy one of them. Here we leave you the most important festivities and events in case you want to coincide in your visit to the city (or avoid them since during these times is when there is usually more tourist demand, and therefore more people, more queues, more expensive prices and more difficulties to go to restaurants or more famous places):

• Holy Week (March or April, according to the liturgical calendar): in Oaxaca, this celebration is very important, with solemn processions such as the “Silencio” in the center of the city. It is also a time when the markets offer traditional dishes such as chilate with tamales.
• Summer (June to October): in addition to being the school vacation season in many countries and increasing demand (and prices), it is the rainy season.
• The Guelaguetza (July) is the largest festival in the region and one of the most important in Latin America. In this festival, which in Zapotec means “the offering”, different indigenous communities of Oaxaca gather to share their traditions and customs through a live show of music and dance where they present their regional dances on the Cerro del Fortin. In addition, there are parades, gastronomy and handicraft samples. It is the most important festival in Oaxaca and tickets sell out quickly. It is held on the last two Mondays of July. Here you can see more information about the Guelaguetza
• Fiesta de los Lunes del Cerro (July): is part of the Guelaguetza, but has a more traditional focus. Events are held in neighborhoods and communities with indigenous dances, gastronomy and ceremonies.
• Mezcal Fair (July): takes place during the Guelaguetza and brings together the best mezcal producers in the state. Since the fair is a showcase for mezcal masters, it is an opportunity not only to taste different varieties of this traditional distillate but also to learn about the elaboration process, from the planting of the agave to distillation.
• Day of the Dead (late October to November 2): Oaxaca is one of the best places in Mexico to experience the Day of the Dead celebrations. The streets are filled with altars, comparsas, sand carpets and offerings in cemeteries such as the one in Xoxocotlán. In the city, there are altar contests and catrinas parades. It is so special to live Day of the Dead in Oaxaca that we have detailed more in the section of the guide Day of the Dead in Oaxaca in case you want to live it in the city.
• Eduardo Mata Festival (October – November): is a classical music event in honor of the great Oaxacan orchestra conductor Eduardo Mata. Concerts of national and international orchestras are presented in different venues of the city.
• Oaxaca International Book Fair (October – November): one of the most important literary events in Mexico, with book presentations, conferences and art exhibits at the San Pablo Cultural Center and other venues.
• Mole Negro Festival (November): Mole Negro is one of Oaxaca’s most iconic dishes, and this festival brings together the best traditional cooks to share their seasoning and culinary secrets.
• Night of the Radishes (December): on December 23rd, Oaxaca’s Zócalo is transformed into a stage where local artisans carve figures in giant radishes, showing Christmas scenes, Oaxacan traditions and legends. This centuries-old tradition is one of the most anticipated festivities before Christmas.
• National Holidays (November, December)
• Christmas and New Year’s Eve

In addition, being the most multicultural state, there are several festivities in the towns of the state of Oaxaca around the city of Oaxaca de Juaréz such as:

• Carnivals (February-March): are celebrated in several towns of Oaxaca. We highlight the carnivals of Tilcajete and Putla, very special because they include masked characters such as the Diablos or “Tiliches” in San Martin Tilcajete or the “Huahuas” in Putla, as well as dances, music and parades.
• Tejate Fair (March): tejate is an ancestral drink made from corn and cocoa, known as “the drink of the gods”, and is a true symbol of Oaxaca. This festival is celebrated in San Andrés Huayapam and takes place during Palm Sunday, where you can come to taste and enjoy the authentic tejate, as well as learn more about its history and elaboration.
• Witches’ Tuesday (March/April): in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán during the 5 Tuesdays of Lent, a festivity that commemorates the construction of the temple dedicated to Santa Elena de la Cruz, where the women of the town used to take tamales and atoles to the men who worked in the construction of the stones. At that time, they used witches or quinqués to illuminate themselves, hence the name Witches’ Tuesday. Approximately 40 years ago, this tradition was transformed into the current festival, where in addition to enjoying tamales and atoles, there are concerts by local and international artists.
• Holy Week (April): besides being special in the city of Oaxaca de Juárez, it is also special in the surrounding communities. One of the most deeply rooted traditions of the Catholic religion in the Mixtec region of Oaxaca is celebrated in Santo Domingo Yanhuitlán. The town’s Dominican temple fills with visitors during Holy Week to witness the traditional dances. In addition, the local museum opens its doors on Maundy Thursday so that the butlers can change the costumes of the archangels, who will walk the streets of the town during the night of Good Friday.
• Traditional candlelight dances of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (May): evening dances (at night) in honor of the patron saints of each town (the most famous are those of Juchitán) animated with music bands and typical gastronomy of the region and lots of beer, mistela and mezcal.
• Las mayordomías (September/October): popular celebration of devotion to a religious image in which the mayordomos, in charge of this festivity, are in charge of organizing the celebration and assume all the expenses associated with the banquet offered to the whole community.
• Las muertadas y comparsas (November): the first two days of November. The cemeteries and streets are filled with music, dances and ingenious costumes to remember those who accompanied us in life but left us. The comparsas begin around 9:00 pm with the parade of the Comparsa del Día de Muertos where there is music and performances of characteristic characters such as the dead, the widow, the dead, the devils and the grandparents, among others. The night culminates in the early morning of November 2 with the entrance to the cemetery, where the deceased are honored and those who wear costumes remove their masks.
• And many more. The truth is that in a very culturally diverse state, there are more traditions and festivities than towns.

Summary: Best months to visit Oaxaca

Based on the above, if you are looking to visit Oaxaca with less people, good weather and reasonable prices, the best months are the winter months, from December to March, also an excellent time to enjoy the beaches (Puerto Escondido, Mazunte, Huatulco…).

Other excellent dates to visit Oaxaca and experience its multiculturalism, although with many people and high prices (you must book well in advance) are July (Guelaguetza) or October/November (Day of the Dead).

How to get to Oaxaca

Oaxaca has an international airport, although connections are limited to other destinations in Mexico and some in the United States. If you don’t have direct flights from your location, the most common will be to fly first to Mexico (to big airports like Cancun or Mexico City) and from there fly to Oaxaca. We recommend that you use flight comparators such as Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with dates to get the best possible price.

You can also reach Oaxaca by land from nearby places such as Puebla (about 4-5 hours), Mexico City (6-7 hours), or San Cristobal de Las Casas (8-9 hours). You can check the ADO website for bus schedules, duration and prices.

In our case, we arrived by ADO (bus) from Puebla, and then flew to the Riviera Maya.

Do I need a visa to travel to Mexico?

For people with USA, Canada, UK and European passports it is not necessary to obtain a visa. Upon arrival in Mexico, it will be enough to show your valid passport, and depending on your departure date, you will be given up to a maximum of 180 days.

Although Mexico does not require a passport with at least 6 months validity, some airlines do, so it’s better to comply.

Are there any mandatory vaccinations for travel to Mexico?

There are some recommended vaccines if you travel to Mexico, you can check them here

How many days to stay in Oaxaca

We believe that 3 or 4 days are necessary to get to know the center of the city of Oaxaca, although if you only have one day you can try to do a tour of the most important parts of the city.

If you are also going to explore the surroundings of Oaxaca and/or the coast, you can easily extend your itinerary to 2 or 3 weeks.

In this section we share specific itineraries of Oaxaca to help you organize your trip.

Things to see and do in Oaxaca

To facilitate the organization of your trip, we have divided the places in this guide into 3 zones: the center of Oaxaca itself, places near the city and the coastal area of Oaxaca.

Map of Oaxaca

As we told you, we have divided the places in 3 zones (center, surroundings and coast). It’s all on a Google Maps map that you can take with you on your smartphone to use during your trip.

Introduction to Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a state recognized for its ethnic and cultural diversity, which positions it as one of the most multicultural states not only in Mexico but also in the world. This richness is reflected in the coexistence of multiple indigenous groups, each with their own languages, traditions and customs.

To give you an idea of its multiculturalism, the state of Oaxaca is home to 17 of the more than 70 ethnic groups recognized in Mexico (we have found different information on the exact number between SIC Mexico and INALI) and although most are of Zapotec or Mixtec origin, there are many others (Triquis, Mixes, Chatinos, Chinantecos, Huaves, Mazatecos, Amuzgos, Nahua, Zoques, Chontales de Oaxaca, Cuicatecos, Ixcatecos, Chocholtecos or Tacuates). It is estimated that more than one million people in Oaxaca speak an indigenous language (32% of the state’s total population, while 5% do not speak Spanish), representing 53% of Mexico’s total indigenous population.

In recent decades, Oaxaca has gained recognition for the diversity of its culture, history and gastronomy, and today its economy is based precisely on handicrafts, gastronomy and tourism. Events such as the Guelaguetza or the Day of the Dead celebrations have turned Oaxaca into a worldwide cultural reference.

Brief history of Oaxaca

The state of Oaxaca has been home to ancient civilizations, mainly Zapotec and Mixtec – such as Monte Albán (500 BC. – 800 AD, the Zapotec capital and one of the most advanced cities in Mesoamerica), and Mitla (900 – 1521 AD, a ceremonial center famous for its fretted architecture) – that left a great legacy in writing, astronomy and government. You can (and should) visit both archaeological sites on your trip to the city (we tell you how in the Things to see and do near Oaxaca section of the guide).

Oaxaca de Juárez, the full name of the capital of the state of Oaxaca, has not always been called that. Oaxaca comes from the Nahuatl “Huāxyacac“ (meaning “in the nose of the huajes” referring to a common tree in the region), a name given by the Mexicas when they established a military camp in the area before the arrival of the Spanish colonizers.

In 1521 Spanish troops conquered the region of Oaxaca (taking advantage of local enmities, forging alliances with Mixtecs and Zapotecs against the Mexicas) and, upon colonization, founded the city as Villa de Antequera in 1526, making it an important economic center. At that time, the Catholic Church had a lot of power and several of the convents and churches you will visit in the city were built, such as the famous (ex-)Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. To accelerate the process of evangelization of the indigenous population, codices were burned and pre-Hispanic temples were destroyed. In addition, this era was characterized by the exploitation of indigenous people in haciendas and mines, in a system similar to medieval feudalism.

Following Mexico’s independence in 1821, in which Oaxaca played an important role in both the armed struggle and political changes, the name was officially changed to “Oaxaca“.

In 1858, Benito Juarez, a native of Oaxaca of Zapotec origin, became president of the country and in fact became one of the most important presidents in the history of Mexico. A symbol of social mobilization, he was the first and only indigenous person to reach the presidency of the country, and defender of the Republic (during the French Intervention, between 1862 and 1867, Oaxaca resisted the occupation and it was Juarez who led the fight), in his legacy are the very important Leyes de la Reforma that separated the Church from the State and the promotion of secular and free education that were key to the modernization of the country.

In 1872, shortly after the death of Benito Juárez, the State Congress decided to add “de Juárez” to the name of the city of Oaxaca in honor of the president, calling it as we know it today: Oaxaca de Juárez.

While the figure of Benito Juárez is highly respected in Mexico, he also arouses some controversy. The respect and notoriety he achieved with his history (he went from being a shepherd boy in Guelatao, Oaxaca, to governing the country) and his legacy are irrefutable. He promoted the Leyes de la Reforma (1855-1860) that separated the Church from the State, confiscating ecclesiastical property to reduce the economic influence of the clergy and making marriage and civil registration secular. In addition, Benito Juarez also promoted free, secular and compulsory education, which helped to make the Mexican population literate, key reforms for Mexico’s modernization that, logically, also generated conflicts, especially in more conservative and religious sectors.

However, the controversy surrounding his figure comes from the fact that although one of his banners was the defense of democracy, the truth is that he remained in power from 1858 until his death in 1872, making him a perpetual ruler. He modified the Constitution to reelect himself and, by governing in times of war (Reforma and Second French Intervention), he “justified” authoritarian measures. His reelection in 1871 generated opposition and revolts (such as Porfirio Díaz’s rebellion with the Plan de la Noria). In addition, one of the bloodiest chapters of his mandate is the Sonora Massacre. Although there is no evidence that Juarez directly ordered the massacre, it is said that in 1868 the Mexican army, under Juarez’s command, attacked a group of Yaquis who resisted the centralist policies of President Juarez, killing hundreds inside the Church of San Ignacio (Sonora).

Like all historical figures, Benito Juarez has his lights and shadows. On the one hand, he is considered a symbol of liberalism, education and resistance to invaders; on the other, he is considered an iron-fisted governor who perpetuated himself in power.

In 1876, Porfirio Díaz, another Oaxacan, took power and ruled the country with an iron fist. His dictatorship, known as the Porfiriato (1876-1911), marked an era of, on the one hand, modernization of the country’s infrastructure (railroads, highways, telegraphs) and, on the other, political repression where indigenous and peasant communities were dispossessed of their lands by the haciendas and the Porfirian government, and of profound inequality in which the elite grew richer while the majority of the population lived in poverty. Porfirio Díaz remained in power for more than 30 years, alternating periods with other presidents controlled by him, until the dictatorship came to an end with the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), a movement against the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz, who finally resigned and went into exile in 1911. During the Mexican Revolution Oaxaca played a key role as a center of resistance against Diaz, with uprisings and factional fighting.

After the Mexican Revolution, Oaxaca continued to face inequality and throughout the 20th century, the state of Oaxaca remained (and remains) economically marginalized, with a strong migration of its population.

Oaxaca today: What to consider before setting out on your trip

Given that in recent decades Oaxaca has gained fame and recognition for its incredible culture and gastronomy, tourism grew abruptly and the city did not know how to keep up with this acceleration. This is reflected in the fact that the majority of the population faces significant infrastructure challenges (water, medical, housing, etc.) and in the increase of existing social and economic problems.

In terms of access to water, the increase in visitors has increased the demand for water, and given the city’s limited water resources infrastructure, water supply for the local population has been (and is being) affected. Oaxaca also has a medical infrastructure problem: despite having a population similar to that of more prosperous states, Oaxaca faces deficiencies in health services, with fewer hospital beds and medical staff. In addition, the city is becoming increasingly difficult for local people to live in as housing prices and the cost of living rise and much of the population continues to work in precarious and unsafe conditions.

Gender inequality in Oaxaca’s indigenous communities is alarming: indigenous women in Oaxaca face discrimination and limited access to employment and educational opportunities.

This disparity is reflected in the scarce political participation and in the traditional division of gender roles. In addition to impunity in cases of gender violence, unfortunately not exclusive to Oaxaca but transversal to the whole country (and the world) that reflect systematic discrimination against women.

Also noteworthy is the digital divide in the state of Oaxaca: the lack of technological infrastructure in rural and indigenous areas limits internet access, affecting their educational and economic opportunities. States such as Oaxaca have low levels of connectivity, with only 4% of rural households having internet access.

As of today, the city is experiencing (like so many others in the country and the world) a new kind of colonization (what we at Randomtrip call “coolonization” – if you use the term, remember to mention us) and gentrification has taken over the place.

This introduction seems essential before starting the trip through Oaxaca and we hope it will influence the decisions and choices (accommodation, consumption and dealing with the local population) of those who read us on your trip to the city and its surroundings. Remember to always prioritize respect, local and artisanal products.

Where we learned part of the history, curiosities and concerns of the city was in the free tour of the city by the hand of a young Oaxacan (Dejan). Thank you! The free tour we did was this one, although you can find another one here

Book your Free Tour in Oaxaca here

Things to see and do in downtown Oaxaca

Here we include everything to see and do in downtown Oaxaca City:

Zócalo and Oaxaca Cathedral

The Zócalo is the main square of the city of Oaxaca (Plaza de la Constitución) and the heart of the social life of the historic center. It is notable for the huge Indian laurels that provide shade to those who stroll here and the beautiful colonial buildings and portals that surround it with several restaurants and cafes with terraces.

It is very common to see street vendors offering their handicrafts and Oaxacan snacks here and to hear live marimba music. In the center is a 1901 Art Nouveau kiosk.

In the Zócalo stands out, on the north side, the imposing Cathedral of Oaxaca (Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción). Its construction began in 1535 and was completed in 1733, with several reconstructions due to earthquakes that have affected the region. Its green quarry façade is an example of Mexican baroque, with ornamental details and religious reliefs. Its interior houses impressive golden altarpieces, an image of the Virgin of the Assumption and a monumental organ.

Both the Zócalo and the Oaxaca Cathedral are part of the Historic Center of Oaxaca, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987, along with the archaeological site of Monte Albán (which we tell you more about in the section Things to See and Do Near Oaxaca). This distinction is due to the architectural richness of Oaxaca’s historic center, reflected in its temples, colonial mansions and plazas, as well as the fusion of indigenous and Spanish traditions. The center of Oaxaca is considered a living testimony of the Zapotec and Mixtec culture that has endured throughout the centuries.

Between the Zócalo and the Cathedral you will also find a monument, the “Memorial to the victims of repression”, installed there to claim justice for the massacre in Nochixtlán (June 19, 2016), where security forces repressed a protest against the educational reform and there were 8 deaths, without apparently still being judged to this day for it.

Oaxaca Markets: Benito Juárez Market, 20 de Noviembre Market, Handicrafts Market and Central de Abastos.

Visiting the markets of Oaxaca is a must if you want to immerse yourself in what is considered the gastronomic capital of the country. Walking through its aisles is a unique immersion of flavors, colors and traditions (sometimes even quite intense). Below we list the four most representative markets in Oaxaca, which we believe are worth a visit:

• Mercado Benito Juárez: one block from the Zócalo, the Benito Juárez Market is one of the oldest and most emblematic in Oaxaca. In its aisles you will find a wide variety of local products, both gastronomic and handmade. Here you can try the famous chapulines, moles, quesillo, aguas frescas and even buy handicrafts and textiles.
• Mercado 20 de Noviembre: just half a block from Mercado Benito Juárez, this market is known for its gastronomic offerings and, more specifically, famous for its “Pasillo de Humo” or“Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas“. In this aisle impregnated with the smell of grilled meat, you can buy various types of meat (such as tasajo, cecina or chorizo) that are grilled on the spot, accompanied by traditional garnishes such as guacamole, grilled onions and freshly made tortillas. In addition to this aisle, its main attraction, the market also houses several fondas with typical dishes of Oaxacan cuisine.
• Mercado de Artesanías: as its name indicates, this market is mainly dedicated to the exhibition and sale of handicrafts (“Artesanías”) from the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca, making it the ideal place to purchase textiles, black clay or the famous alebrijes (handmade figures of vibrant colors that represent fantastic creatures, combining elements of different real and imaginary animals). In addition to the handicrafts, this market also has food stands (of course, we are in Oaxaca!) where you can sample local delicacies.
• Central de Abastos: this is one of the largest and most important markets in Oaxaca, extending over approximately 16 hectares! The market has stalls of all kinds of products from fruits, vegetables, meats, spices, textiles and even handicrafts. The main reason to go there was to have Doña Vale’s Memelas for breakfast, which were made famous on Netflix’s Street Food: Latin America and Somebody Feed Phil, also on Netflix (in fact he has his own memela called “Phil’s Special”) and we highly recommend them. They are delicious! RandomTip: We recommend you go as early as possible (huge lines form to try Doña Vale’s Memelas) and go with the minimum (avoid carrying a camera, loaded backpack, etc).

In addition to these four most emblematic markets, we also recommend that you stop by the Mercado Orgánico de la Cosecha, which stands out precisely for its organic and local products and its commitment to sustainability and direct support to producers, eliminating intermediaries so that the benefits reach the communities directly. It was inaugurated in October 2016 and made up of producers from various regions of the state who sell vegetables, seasonal fruits, chocolate, coffee, quesillo, mole del Istmo, seafood, memelas, empanadas, tlayudas, guajolote meat, traditional drinks such as tejate and fresh tuna waters and even handicrafts. For more information about events and activities at the market, check out their Facebook page “La Cosecha”.

Museo Textil de Oaxaca

The Museo Textil de Oaxaca (MTO) is a space dedicated to the preservation, study and promotion of the textile tradition of Oaxaca, above all, but also of other regions of Mexico and the world. Inaugurated in 2008, the museum is located in the historic Casa Antelo, an 18th century baroque mansion, restored in 2007. It houses several temporary exhibits, workshops and conferences, and presents a tour of the designs, techniques and creative processes involved in the making of textiles, seeking to link tradition with the present. For more information on the museum’s activities and events, visit the museum’s official website.

In this museum we learned, for example, an interesting fact about how by comparing the textiles of the 17 ethnic groups that coexist in Oaxaca with their linguistic variation (their phonology, vocabulary and grammar), one can see how some design styles distinguish certain groups, while others are shared by peoples who speak different languages.

Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 8:00 pm; Saturday from 11:00 am to 8:00 pm; Sunday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Price: Free admission

Centro Cultural San Pablo

Next to the Textile Museum, the Centro Cultural San Pablo is a space dedicated to the promotion and dissemination of culture and the arts in Oaxaca. It was inaugurated in 2011 and is located in the former convent of San Pablo, considered the first convent built by the Dominican order in Oaxaca in 1529.

The cultural center houses a library dedicated to the study and reflection on indigenous cultures (Biblioteca de Investigación Juan de Córdova); a children’s library with a large collection of books, magazines, films and toys; and a sound library that preserves and disseminates the sound heritage of the region (Fonoteca Juan León Mariscal, Oaxacan musician).

In addition to these facilities, the center has spaces for exhibitions, concerts, conferences, seminars, courses and workshops, consolidating itself as a cultural meeting point in Oaxaca. The truth is that we loved the space and when we went there we were lucky enough to enjoy a very interesting exhibition called “Convergencias“, by Laura Vázquez, which brought together the work of 19 women artists.

Also, right there in the plaza of the cultural center is the Café Brújula with terrace, a super nice space where we enjoyed an afternoon reading.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 10:00 am to 8:00 pm; Sundays from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Price: Free admission

Centro Cultural del Mezcal

Just across the street from the San Pablo Cultural Center, on the other side of the sidewalk, is the Mezcal Cultural Center dedicated to the promotion and dissemination of the culture of this emblematic Mexican beverage.

Recently opened in 2023, it is located in a beautiful historic mansion dating from 1675, and offers an experience ranging from tasting to education about mezcal. It has an interactive museum composed of seven thematic rooms that present a tour of the history and production processes of mezcal, in addition to learning about the various producing regions of Oaxaca and the different varieties of agave used in its production. In addition, you can also take a guided tasting to discover the flavor profiles that best suit your palate.

And if, like us at Randomtrip, you like mezcal, you should know that the cultural center houses what is considered the largest mezcal store in the world with more than 340 labels from more than 100 brands, covering more than 18 types of agave.

If you want to taste it in situ, the Patio – Bar El Gallo, in the central courtyard of the mansion, is beautiful, full of typical Oaxacan vegetation and artwork by local artists, and offers mezcal tastings and cocktails. If you get hungry, at the Alambiq restaurant, the menu pays homage to the dishes that are part of the daily life of the mezcal masters, using local ingredients and ancestral techniques, an interesting gastronomic experience.

Opening hours: Monday to Sunday, from 09:00h to 23:00h Price: Free admission

Teatro Macedonio Alcalá

The Macedonio Alcalá Theater is one of the most emblematic cultural venues in Oaxaca. It was inaugurated in 1909 and its architectural design reflects the European influence of the time combining neoclassical and art nouveau styles. The main façade stands out for its three doors carved in green quarry stone and its interior for the lobby with an elegant white marble staircase.

This symbol of Oaxaca’s cultural heritage has a capacity for 636 people and throughout its history has been the stage for various events, from theatrical presentations and concerts to conferences and official ceremonies. Among the cultural events that take place in the theater, some are free of charge. To find out more about the program, check out its Facebook page.

The theater is named in honor of Macedonio Alcalá, one of the most important figures of the city’s culture and music. He was born in Oaxaca in 1831 and was an outstanding composer, musician and orchestra conductor whose main legacy was his contribution to traditional Mexican music, especially in the Oaxaca region. He is particularly known for being the author of the famous Mexican waltz “Dios Nunca Muere” (considered the unofficial anthem of Oaxaca), as well as being instrumental in the creation of the Oaxaca Philharmonic Society and director of several musical institutions in the city.

Here you can see the song “Dios Nunca Muere” (God Never Dies) performed by the well known Oaxacan artist Lila Downs:

Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños

As the name itself indicates, the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños (MUPO) is dedicated to the promotion and exhibition of plastic and graphic art by artists from Oaxaca as well as some national and international artists. The truth is that during our visit we saw several interesting temporary exhibitions, but all of them were of male artists: not a single woman artist

The museum was inaugurated in 2004 and is located in a beautiful 17th century building with a lot of history where the main patio is surrounded by quadrangular columns and corridors that connect with the different exhibition rooms. Initially this building was founded as the “Colegio de las Doncellas de Nuestra Señora de la Presentación” or “Colegio de las Niñas” where, apparently, they provided education to Oaxacan girls regardless of their social and economic origin, something uncommon in colonial times when education was reserved for the elite.

Over the centuries, the building has had several uses, including being the site of the first National Museum of Anthropology and History in 1933, where the jewels found in Tomb 7 of Monte Albán were exhibited for the first time. From that first museum there is still a vestige that can still be seen today: the original column from the archaeological site of Mitla that is found at the entrance, in the first courtyard.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm Price: Admission by free donation

It is precisely at the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños where the meeting point of the Free Tours in Oaxaca is usually located, where you can learn about the history and curiosities of the city, although it is best to confirm if the information has been updated(book your free tour here where it mentions the meeting point).

Plaza de la Danza: Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and Former San José Convent.

The Plaza de la Danza is a plaza built entirely of quarry stone, taking advantage of the natural slope of the land to create steps that surround the central area. Over the years, it has been the scene of various cultural events, artistic presentations and political acts.

In the square stands the imposing Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, a temple of great historical and religious importance of the seventeenth century, although the main facade and some interior details were completed later in the eighteenth century.

The Ex Convento de San José, located nearby, complements this historic complex. Although the building currently houses the School of Fine Arts, it was originally a convent that, together with the Basilica de la Soledad and its annexes, forms an important architectural and cultural heritage of the city.

Next to the Plaza de la Danza is the Jardín Socrates, popularly known as “las nieves de La Soledad” which is a meeting point where you can try tMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayohe “nieves” (a traditional dessert similar to ice cream) and other regional sweets.

Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayo

The Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México Rufino Tamayo was founded in 1974 by Oaxacan artist Rufino Tamayo (1899-1991), one of Mexico’s most outstanding artists, internationally recognized for his unique style that fused indigenous art and European modernism. The museum’s main objective is to exhibit his collection of pre-Hispanic archaeological pieces, pre-Hispanic sources of inspiration that influenced his work.

The museum’s collection consists of more than 1,000 archaeological pieces, of which approximately 350 are on permanent display, from various cultures and regions of Mexico, including Guerrero, Colima, Nayarit, Jalisco and Michoacán. The works are distributed in five rooms, each painted in colors characteristic of Tamayo’s palette: blue, green, pink, violet and orange.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 10:00h to 14:00h and from 16:00h to 19:00h. Sunday from 10:00h to 14:00h Price: 90 MXN/person. Sunday free entrance. If you want to take a guided tour of the museum, you can hire it here, in Spanish.

Margarita Maza de Juárez Library

The Margarita Maza de Juárez Library is a cultural and educational center housed in an 18th century mansion, representative of the city’s civil architecture. Before becoming a library in 1985, the building housed the Colegio de San José at the beginning of the 20th century and later, in 1924, it was the seat of the Escuela Normal, a higher education institution dedicated to the training of teachers for basic education.

In addition to having several reading rooms, the library promotes culture and education through various activities, such as book presentations, lectures, workshops and exhibitions.

The library is named in honor of Margarita Maza de Juárez, an important figure in the history of Mexico both for her active role in crucial times for the country and for being the wife of President Benito Juárez.

Opening hours: Monday to Friday, from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm; Saturdays from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm. Price: Free admission

Andador Turístico

The Andador Turístico of Oaxaca is one of the most emblematic streets of the historic center of the city. It is a pedestrian walkway that runs along Macedonio Alcalá Street from the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán to the Plaza de la Constitución (Oaxaca’s Zócalo).

In addition to connecting important historical, cultural and tourist points such as one of the most important monuments in Oaxaca, the Temple and Former Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzman and the Ethnobotanical Garden, which we will talk about next, along the walkway you will also pass by art galleries and craft stores such as textiles, alebrijes, black clay pottery and filigree jewelry.

Between so much color and beauty, it will be difficult to control expenses since you will want to buy a few Oaxacan souvenirs of the trip. Choose well and see if it is handicrafts (and not an industrial product): if it is too cheap, be wary. If you want to make a stop, there are several cafes and restaurants along the walkway.

In the end, the andador is a meeting point for locals and visitors where you can occasionally enjoy one of the open-air exhibitions that are set up, street musicians providing the soundtrack to the walk, calendas, folk dances and cultural events, especially during festivities such as the Guelaguetza or the Day of the Dead.

RandomTip: In the tourist walkway you will find several vendors on the street. Look carefully because most of the products you will see for sale on the street are industrial and not handmade. The sale of these products at low prices is, in the end, unfair competition to the artisans who sell their art in the form of weaving (carpets, dresses, etc.), hand-painted alebrijes, fabrics or ceramics. By choosing local crafts instead of industrial ones, you are not only acquiring a unique piece that is the result of hours, even days, of dedication and skills passed down from generation to generation. You are also contributing to the cultural heritage of Oaxaca and the livelihood of those who make it possible.

MACO: Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (now MACCO: Museo de Arte Contemporáneo y de las Culturas Oaxaqueñas)

The MACO (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca) specializes in exhibiting and promoting contemporary art, with a focus on Oaxacan, national and international artists. It was founded in 1992 thanks to the initiative of a group of citizens and artists such as Francisco Toledo. It is located in Casa Cortés, a 17th century colonial mansion on Oaxaca’ s Andador Turístico. It is a key space for the diffusion of contemporary art, exhibiting works by Oaxacan artists, as well as modern and experimental art.

The museum has been a cultural reference, promoting avant-garde art and supporting young creators. However, in recent years it has faced administrative problems and temporary closures that even involved police and military occupation of its facilities. Apparently, these problems were caused by labor conflicts between the Civil Association Amigos del MACO, in charge of its administration, and a group of workers for alleged mismanagement of resources and legal disputes over the intellectual property of the museum’s name and logo.

Recently, in May 2024, the space was handed over to the Secretary of Cultures and Arts of the State and in July of the same year a new museum was opened, the MACCO (Museum of Contemporary Art and Oaxacan Cultures) after 3 years without activity, although the conflict continues.

Opening hours: Monday to Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; closed on Tuesdays. Price: 20 MXN

Temple of Santo Domingo de Guzman

The Temple of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a baroque architectural jewel, surrounded by agaves, has become the symbol of the city.

The construction of the former Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán began in 1551 and lasted until its inauguration in 1608 by the Dominican Order, although the decoration works continued until 1666. Besides being a religious temple, the complex included a Dominican convent where the friars of the Order of Preachers (Dominicans) lived and trained.

However, in the 19th century, with the application of the Leyes de Reforma promoted by Benito Juárez, the convent was expropriated by the government and ceased to function as a religious institution and became a military facility. It was returned to religious worship in 1902 during the Porfiriato and, in fact, in 1979, Pope John Paul II officiated a mass here.

Currently, it is part of the architectural complex that houses the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca and the Ethnobotanical Garden, which we will discuss below.

The interior of the temple is impressive for its baroque ornamentation with gilded altarpieces and various details on its walls, ceilings and main altar. It is worth entering but, beware, it is open to the public only two hours a day: from 9:00 am to 10:00 am in the morning and from 5:00 pm to 6:00 pm in the afternoon.

In January 2025, the restoration of several viceregal buildings affected by the 2017 and 2018 earthquakes, including the Santo Domingo convent in Oaxaca, was reported. This effort was part of a program promoted by Mexico’s Ministry of Culture, with an investment of more than 10.5 billion pesos.

Recently, in February 2025, the culinary community of Oaxaca organized a procession to move the image of San Pascual Bailón, patron saint of cooks, to the Temple of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. This event included an ecumenical mass that brought together chefs and cooks of diverse beliefs, strengthening the tradition and devotion to this saint in the region.

It was precisely in front of this temple where we introduced ourselves to Oaxaca and where the city gave us the best possible welcome with one of its colorful, festive and musical calendas.

Randomtip: It is precisely in front of the temple of Santo Domingo de Guzmán that on weekends in the afternoon/evening there are usually calendas, an important part of Oaxacan culture. A calenda is a festive procession that goes through the streets, announcing and inviting the population to join the party. It is a traditional festivity that marks the beginning of the patron saint celebrations in various communities in Oaxaca.

The calenda is led by ancestral drum and chirimia sounds, music bands, dancers and emblematic figures such as the marmots and the calenda monkeys (a giant puppet made with a reed frame and papier-mâché head, dressed in typical clothing). The Oaxacan chinas, women carrying baskets adorned with flowers on their heads, are also an essential part of these celebrations. Although their origin is religious and communitarian, nowadays calendas are also held for social events such as weddings and graduations.

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

The Museum of the Cultures of Oaxaca, located in the former Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzman, is probably the best and most complete museum in Oaxaca so if you only have time to visit one, we would recommend this one.

This museum offers a comprehensive overview of the rich cultural heritage of the region, ranging from pre-Hispanic times to contemporary times. It has 14 permanent rooms dedicated to archeology, history and ethnography, in addition to 9 thematic rooms on various traditional Oaxacan activities (such as ceramics, goldsmithing, saddlery and gastronomy) and 3 salted rooms for temporary exhibitions.

Among the most outstanding objects are archaeological pieces discovered in explorations carried out by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) in Oaxacan territory, such as in the ancient civilizations of Monte Albán (500 BC. – 800 A.D., the Zapotec capital and one of the most advanced cities in Mesoamerica) or Mitla (900 – 1521 A.D.). For example, here you can appreciate the turquoise skull (Skull decorated with turquoise), found in Monte Alban.

(All photos of Monte Alban and the Museum of Cultures are authored by Randomtrip. All rights reserved)

The museum shares its space with other cultural and educational institutions, such as the Francisco de Burgoa Library, the Ethnobotanical Historical Garden (which we talk about below and of which you will have incredible views from the Museum) and the Néstor Sánchez Public Newspaper Library of Oaxaca.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 09:00h to 17:00h. Price: 100 MXN/person. If you want to take a guided tour of the museum, you can hire it here, in Spanish.

Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden

Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful visits in Oaxaca is the Ethnobotanical Garden of Oaxaca, a space dedicated to the conservation and study of the plant diversity of the state of Oaxaca and to understand the link between plants and Oaxacan indigenous communities. Like the Museo de las Culturas, it is also located inside the former Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

Inaugurated in 1998, this garden houses more than 1,000 species of plants originating from diverse regions and climates of Oaxaca, from arid zones to tropical and mountainous areas, representing the climatic and ecological diversity of the state, from desert cacti to tropical plants.

The garden is designed in a sustainable manner, taking advantage of rainwater harvesting and using local materials in its infrastructure.

Its main objective is to show the relationship between biodiversity and the cultural history of Oaxaca, highlighting the traditional use of plants by local communities over more than twelve thousand years.

In addition to its function as a botanical garden, it is a research and education center with a nursery, a seed bank, a herbarium and a specialized library. In addition to carrying out studies on ethnobotany and ecology, they rescue endangered species and promote the revaluation of traditional knowledge.

The project was promoted by the artist Francisco Toledo and the civil association PRO-OAX in 1993, and was consolidated with the support of various governmental and cultural institutions. The land occupied by the garden served as military barracks from the mid-19th century until 1994, before being transformed into the cultural and natural space it is today.

To visit the Garden it is mandatory to do so with a guided tour without reservation (there is no advance ticket sales), in a group of maximum 30 people so it is ideal to be at the gates of the entrance to the Garden about 15 minutes before the tour starts.

Schedule of guided tours:

• In Spanish: Monday to Friday at 10:30 am, 11:00 am, 11:30 am, 12:00 pm and 5:00 pm; Saturdays 10:30 am, 11:00 am, 11:30 am and 12:00 pm.
• In English: Monday to Saturday at 11:00 am.

Price: 50 MXN/person for the guided tour in Spanish and 100 MXN/person for the guided tour in English.

You can confirm the schedule and price of guided tours on the Garden’s Instagram page or Facebook page.

Museo de la Filatelia de Oaxaca

The Museo de la Filatelia de Oaxaca (MUFI) is a space dedicated to the promotion and study of philately and postal collecting. Inaugurated on July 9, 1998, it is located in a beautiful building where the Official State Newspaper used to be.

The museum houses a collection of approximately 200,000 pieces, including postage stamps, envelopes and other objects related to postal history. Among its treasures are a Penny Black, the first postage stamp issued in the world, and the first stamp issued in Mexico in 1856.

In addition to its permanent and temporary exhibitions, MUFI houses a Library specialized in philately and postal subjects; the Philatelic Club, a space for enthusiasts and collectors; the Museum Store where you can buy stamps, postcards and related items (it has very original gifts); a mailbox, of course! with daily collection so you can send your postcard home from the museum; and a charming terrace where you can have a coffee.

The museum organizes several activities so if you want to know what’s going on when you go, keep an eye on their agenda.

Opening hours: Monday to Sunday from 10:00h to 19:00h. Price: Free admission.

Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

The Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca was founded by the famous Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo and later donated to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes. It was the first cultural space founded by the artist, in 1988, and houses one of the most important graphic arts collections in Latin America. It has a library with some 60,000 copies.

Opening hours: Monday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 8:00 pm. Price: Free admission.

Francisco Toledo, in addition to being one of Mexico’s greatest visual artists, was an important activist, defending social and environmental causes and the defense of cultural heritage and territory.

One of his most famous actions is that he managed to prevent the opening of a McDonalds in the historic center of Oaxaca. Apparently, in 2002, the owner of a store in front of the Zócalo applied for a license to open a McDonalds. Toledo organized a “tamaliza” (gathering of people to eat tamales) to peacefully protest against the opening of the business, comparing the delicious local tamales to hamburgers; in addition to tamales, there was tejate (a traditional pre-Hispanic drink), music, other artists and even government representatives. Prior to the protest, Toledo sent a letter to McDonalds headquarters explaining the negative impact of opening one there and requesting that they open it in another area outside of the historic center. Toledo also collected 10,000 signatures against the McDonalds, and as a consequence of all these actions, the local government finally did not grant the license. Here is an excerpt from Toledo’s letter:

“The presence of McDonald’s would homogenize and distort what is unique in the world. If we allow this type of chain to enter the Historic Center, Oaxaca will increasingly resemble any U.S. city and will lose the attraction that generates our main economic income: tourism“.

Templo del Carmen Alto

The architectural complex of the Templo del Carmen Alto includes the temple, the former convent of the Discalced Carmelites and an atrium.

The temple, with a Latin cross plan, houses in its main altar an image of the Virgen del Monte Carmelo. The festivity in honor of this virgin marks the beginning of the celebrations of the Lunes del Cerro, significant cultural events in the region.

The atrium is a large and wooded space where Randomtrip was lucky enough to enjoy a calenda that was taking place there for a wedding.

If you come on a Sunday morning, you will probably be able to enjoy some Oaxacan delicacies, since the local community organizes activities where tamales, quesadillas, bread and chocolate are offered, with the proceeds going to the restoration of the temple or to support people in need.

The history of the temple dates back to 1486, when Mexica soldiers established a camp in the region and built a teocalli dedicated to Centéotl, goddess of corn and agriculture, on the site where the temple stands today. After the arrival of the Spanish colonizers and their forced evangelization, the teocalli was destroyed and replaced by a hermitage dedicated to the Santa Vera Cruz, which was later abandoned. With the arrival of the Discalced Carmelite friars, the current temple was built with the support of the Portuguese philanthropist Manuel Fernández Fiallo.

Plaza Cruz de Piedra and Oaxaca Aqueduct

Plaza Cruz de Piedra is, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful squares in Oaxaca. It is located in the Xochimilco neighborhood, one of the oldest in the city, and is a quiet and picturesque plaza, surrounded by cobblestone streets and colonial architecture.

Its name comes from a large stone cross placed at the site in colonial times, a common tradition in New Spain to mark religious sites or sites of community importance, although the stone cross we see today is not the original.

Apparently, the original stone cross was removed. The whereabouts of the original cross is unknown, but speculation arose when former governor Gabino Cué theoretically shared on his social networks a photograph posing next to a cross in his house, which provoked accusations about the possible fate of the original piece. However, there is no official confirmation that any ruler has stolen the cross for his property. The National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) in Oaxaca has avoided providing interviews regarding the case.

The Oaxaca Aqueduct, also known as the San Felipe del Agua Aqueduct, is located next to the Plaza Cruz de Piedra and is a work of colonial engineering built in the 18th century to carry water from the San Felipe spring to the city of Oaxaca.

The structure, made of brick and green quarry, has semicircular arches and extends approximately six kilometers. It is still possible to see well-preserved sections, one of the most outstanding being the monumental arcade known as “La Cascada” (The Waterfall). The aqueduct ceased to function in 1940 and today, part of its arches house small businesses, art galleries and cafes.

Xochimilco Neighborhood

The Xochimilco neighborhood is one of the oldest and most picturesque neighborhoods in Oaxaca. It was founded in the 15th century by Xochimilca warriors who followed the orders of the Aztec emperor Ahuítzotl. Its name in Nahuatl means “place of the flowery sowing”. Later, with the arrival of the Spanish settlers, colonial buildings were constructed.

The neighborhood is characterized by its cobblestone streets, colorful adobe houses and street art. It is known for its traditional festivities, such as the Day of the Dead celebration, where the streets are filled with colorful altars and flower carpets.

It is also home to a variety of artisan workshops and art galleries, where local artists exhibit and sell their work. It was here that we found one of our favorite stores, Xanté, an art and design gallery where Inês went crazy (and her wallet suffered).

RandomTIP: According to the locals, it’s best not to go there after sunset. It is a very interesting neighborhood to get lost in during the day but not very well lit at night, which makes it easy to get robbed.

Jalatlaco Neighborhood

The Jalatlaco neighborhood, whose name in Nahuatl means “sand ravine”, was established in 1524. Originally, this neighborhood was home to indigenous communities and, later, to artisans specialized in tanning and stonemasonry.

It is a very beautiful neighborhood, with cobblestone streets, colorful facades where street art stands out. It was one of our favorite neighborhoods in the city, with several cafes, restaurants and cultural life. In fact, it has been recognized as “Barrio Mágico” for its historical and cultural value.

The heart of the neighborhood is the Church of San Matías Jalatlaco, built in the 17th century, which stands out for its yellow quarry stone architecture. In addition to strolling through its streets, we recommend a visit to the NN Gallery, with wonderful exhibitions to feed the soul, and a visit to Amore Vintage, of the wonderful (and always stylish) Magaly where you will find in addition to amazing second-hand clothes, some handmade accessories handmade by her, to feed the self-esteem.

Like Xochimilco, Jalatlaco is one of the best neighborhoods from which to enjoy the Day of the Dead celebrations in the city, so if you would like to stay here on those dates we recommend you book as far in advance as possible.

It was the neighborhood where we stayed in Randomtrip on our trip to Oaxaca de Juárez and we loved it. We recommend Hotel Posada San Rafael (from 40$/night), Hotel Cazomalli Oaxaca (from 70$/night), this Boutique apartment (from 123$/night), or the City Centro by Marriot (from 160$/night), depending on your budget. In the neighborhood there is a lot of variety, take a look at this link, open the map and choose as close to the temple of San Matías Jalatlaco as possible.

Guelaguetza Auditorium

The Guelaguetza Auditorium is the open-air venue located on the Cerro del Fortin where the most important event in Oaxaca and one of the most important in Latin America is held: La Guelaguetza.

Inaugurated in 1974, the auditorium was designed by architect Mario del Olmo, inspired by the ancient Greek and Roman theaters, taking advantage of the natural slope of the terrain to arrange the bleachers in a semicircular design. From the bleachers you can also enjoy a panoramic view of the city of Oaxaca and its surrounding valleys.

The auditorium has a capacity for 12,000 spectators and is the main stage for the Guelaguetza. This festival, of pre-Hispanic origin, is celebrated annually during the last two Mondays of July, bringing together various communities of the state to share their dances, music and traditions.

In addition to the Guelaguetza, the auditorium hosts a variety of cultural and artistic events, including concerts, plays and dance performances. In 2009, remodeling work began to improve its facilities, including the addition of a roof to protect attendees from inclement weather, which was completed in 2010.

Buy handicrafts and local products

As you may have noticed by now, Oaxaca is a true treasure trove of traditions and creativity where every corner reflects the cultural richness of its people. Its diversity is expressed in the wide variety of handicrafts and local products, from hand-embroidered textiles to black clay pieces and colorful alebrijes. To walk through its stores is to immerse oneself in a world of history, ancestral techniques and the talent of its artisans, who keep their roots alive through each creation.

Here is a selection of stores in Oaxaca where you can find unique and authentic pieces, perfect to take with you a piece of this magical land.

• Xanté: art and design gallery created by Alejandra Torres, illustrator, and Ignacio Castillo, graphic artist. The word Xanté means “Heart” in the Lakota (Sioux) language. The illustrations, accessories and clothing they have in the store are incredible and very dangerous for the wallet.
• MARO Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca: the variety of handicrafts made by women from the different regions of Oaxaca that you will find in this space is endless. We loved it.
• La Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca: cooperative that brings handicrafts from the different regions of the state of Oaxaca from black clay, green clay, alebrijes, various textiles, some local ingredients, jewelry, shoes and much more!
• Huizache “Pueblos Originarios de Oaxaca”: another cooperative of artisans with a wide variety of handicrafts.
• Taller Siqueiros Gallery: to buy illustrations
• Subterráneos: community graphic workshop where you can buy prints or learn how to engrave on wood.
• Amore Vintage, a store in the heart of Jalatlaco where you will find not only amazing second hand clothes, but also handmade accessories handcrafted by the charming Magaly
  

RandomTIP: By choosing local handicrafts, you not only acquire a unique piece full of history and tradition, but you also support the work of the artisans and their communities. Each embroidery, clay figure or alebrije is the result of hours, even days, of dedication and skills passed down from generation to generation. It is important to value their effort by paying a fair price and avoiding bargaining, since behind each creation there are quality materials, time and the talent of those who keep these traditions alive. Betting on authentic craftsmanship is to contribute to the cultural heritage of Oaxaca and the livelihood of those who make it possible.

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, one of the most special in Mexico

If living Day of the Dead in Mexico is one of your travel dreams, Oaxaca is one of the most special places to do it in the country for its deeply rooted traditions and cultural diversity. Although these celebrations occur all over the country, in areas such as Patzcuaro (Michoacan), San Miguel de Allende (Guanajuato) or Chiapas, and living it in each region is special for different reasons, the truth is that Oaxaca has gained international fame in recent decades.

Being one of the most sought after destinations for these dates, it is important that you book your accommodation in Oaxaca de Juarez and flights as far in advance as possible (we recommend you use flight comparators like Skyscanner and Kiwi to get the best possible price) as accommodation is sold out and internal flights to Oaxaca get very expensive.

What makes the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca so special?

Music and dance are an integral part of the celebration, with folkloric groups performing traditional dances in the plazas and streets of the city. The traditional parades are incredible, full of music, dances, catrinas and skulls, which wind through the streets of the historic center, with the comparsas being especially lively and colorful in neighborhoods such as Jalatlaco and Xochimilco. In the Zócalo, the streets are decorated with sand and sawdust mats, representing skulls, catrinas and scenes of death. Museums and cultural centers organize exhibitions on death, concerts and pre-Hispanic dance performances.

In addition, the city is dressed in flowers, especially the cempasúchil flower (the orange flower that guides the souls back home) that floods the streets of the city with color and scent, making simply walking the streets a special activity in itself.

Impressive altars, in homes and cemeteries but also in museums and even hotels, are decorated with candles, photographs of the deceased -and objects that used to belong to them- and offerings. They can be of two levels (world of the living and underworld; earth and heaven), three levels (heaven, earth and purgatory) or up to seven levels (corresponding to the 7 steps to reach heaven and rest in peace) honoring and welcoming their beloved souls.

You can also visit the cemeteries, with respect, where they pay homage to their dead with music, flowers, mezcal, mole and hot chocolate. The most emblematic cemeteries, such as Xoxocotlán and the General in Oaxaca de Juárez, are filled with candles, flowers and music, creating a unique atmosphere to remember the dead. Families spend the night accompanying their loved ones with food and songs.

In addition, on these dates there are special dishes in the gastronomic capital of the country such as mole negro, tamales, chocolate de metate and pan de muerto with sesame seeds or sugar.

Being Oaxaca one of the places with the most deeply rooted traditions during the Day of the Dead celebrations, it is not surprising that much of the street art we find in its streets is precisely on this theme…

During these days Oaxaca becomes a living stage of this tradition, combining solemnity with festivity, respect with joy.

When is Day of the Dead celebrated in Oaxaca?

Although officially the Day of the Dead is celebrated on November 1 and 2, in many places, especially in Oaxaca, the festivities can extend for a week or even longer. In the end, the celebration is not just one day, but a whole ritual cycle that begins at the end of October and extends until November 3 in some communities.

• October 27: It is believed that on this day the souls of deceased pets return to visit their owners.
• October 28: Those who died tragically or in accidents are remembered. At the place of death, a cross decorated with cempasúchil flowers and a candle is placed. At home, their families place an offering with the objects and foods they liked in life.
• October 29: Dedicated to people who died by drowning. They are honored with offerings and specific rituals.
• October 30: The forgotten souls or those who have no relatives to remember them are commemorated. Communities make collective offerings in their honor.
• October 31: Day dedicated to unborn or unbaptized children. Parents visit the graves of the babies and decorate them with white flowers and cempasúchil, placing offerings with toys, bread, milk and water.
• November 1: Known as All Saints’ Day, children under the age of 12 are remembered. Offerings include toys, candy and the foods they enjoyed in life.
• November 2: It is the Day of the Dead, dedicated to deceased adults. Families place ofrendas with their loved ones’ favorite dishes, drinks, flowers and other meaningful objects. After noon, according to belief, the souls return to the afterlife, and the ofrendas are collected.

These traditions may vary by region and community, but in general, they reflect the deep connection and respect for the deceased in Oaxacan culture. So yes, although November 1 and 2 are the key days, in Oaxaca the celebration lasts longer and is more intense than in other parts of Mexico. In places like Oaxaca de Juárez, Xoxocotlán and Etla, the atmosphere is still alive even for several days after 2/11 with sand carpet displays, concerts and cultural events.

If you wish to do so, it is important to book well in advance. Being one of the most sought after dates to visit the city, the price of accommodation and internal flights skyrockets so the sooner you book, the better. Find your accommodation in Oaxaca here, find your flight at the best price in flight comparison sites like Skyscanner and Kiwi and if you plan to visit the Oaxaca Coast and finish the trip in style in one of its incredible beaches, book your rental car as soon as possible (we recommend you to use comparison sites like DiscoverCars).

Things to see and do near Oaxaca

The state of Oaxaca is known for its cultural diversity where dozens of different ethnic groups coexist with their own languages, customs and traditions, historic towns, and archaeological sites where ancient civilizations existed.

Monte Alban Archaeological Zone

Founded around 500 B.C., Monte Albán was the capital of the Zapotec civilization and remained an important political and cultural center for more than a millennium.

The site is located on top of a mountain, about 400 meters above the valley level, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the region. It is undoubtedly one of the most emblematic archaeological sites in Mexico for being one of the first and most important cities in Mesoamerica.

The heart of Monte Alban is the Central Plaza, a rectangular esplanade surrounded by several significant structures, such as the Great Ball Court, used for rituals and sports ceremonies, and Building J, which stands out for its unusual shape and is believed to have functioned as an astronomical observatory. Another notable construction is The Palace, which possibly served as the residence of the ruling or priestly elite.

In addition, Monte Albán is also known for its stelae and engravings, including the famous “Danzantes“, representations of human figures in dynamic positions that, according to studies, could symbolize prisoners of war or high-status personages.

In addition, Tomb 7 is famous for the rich Mixtec treasure found inside, composed of jewelry, ceremonial objects and artifacts of great historical value. You can appreciate some pieces of the treasure of Tomb Seven of Monte Alban in the Museum of Cultures of the capital:

In 1987, the archaeological zone of Monte Albán was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, in recognition of its cultural and historical importance. It is located less than 10 km from the city of Oaxaca de Juárez.

Opening hours: Monday to Sunday from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (last access at 4:00 p.m.). Price: 100 MXN/person

How to get to Monte Alban from Oaxaca de Juarez:

• Public Transportation: The bus leaves in front of Hotel Rivera del Angel, at this bus stop, and goes directly to Monte Alban. Departures every 30 min, from 8:ooh to 15:30h. The trip costs 50 MXN/person and takes 20 minutes. To return to Oaxaca, the bus leaves from the Monte Alban parking lot and there is usually a queue. At Randomtrip we returned to Oaxaca by bus (we took a cab to Monte Alban).
• Taxi/VTC: The other option is to go by cab (with the app Didi). At Randomtrip we went by cab and paid 240 MXN for the trip (we returned to Oaxaca by bus).
• Own car: The other option is to rent a car in Oaxaca to visit all its surroundings such as Monte Alban. In this case we recommend you to use comparators such as DiscoverCars.
• Tour: You can hire this tour from Oaxaca, which includes round-trip transportation and a Spanish-speaking guide to the archaeological site.

All photographs of Monte Alban are by Randomtrip. All rights reserved.

Hierve el Agua

Hierve el Agua is a natural site about 70 km from the city of Oaxaca, famous for its impressive 200-meter petrified waterfalls, rock formations that look like waterfalls that were frozen in time.

These structures were formed over thousands of years due to the runoff of water rich in minerals, especially calcium carbonate, which precipitated and created these unique formations.

In addition to the petrified waterfalls, Hierve el Agua has hot springs that have been channeled to form natural pools where you can bathe and enjoy panoramic views of the Oaxacan highlands. The name “Hierve el Agua” translates as “the water boils”, referring to the bubbling appearance of the springs, although don’t be scared, the water is not really boiling but at a temperature of approximately 24ºC.

The area also has archaeological value. More than 2,500 years ago, the Zapotec built a complex irrigation system and agricultural terraces in the area, using canals carved into the rock to take advantage of the constant flow of water. This system is considered one of the oldest in Mesoamerica and demonstrates the advanced hydraulic knowledge of this civilization.

Hierve el Agua has a circular trail of approximately 2.7 km in length that takes about an hour to explore the rock formations of the petrified waterfalls and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valley. On our particular Randomtripper Scale of Difficulty we consider it of moderate difficulty because some of the terrain is slippery.

In addition, Hierve el Agua has basic facilities such as dressing rooms and food stands.

At Randomtrip we wanted to enjoy the sunset and sunrise in this incredible place and the only way to see the sunrise was to stay overnight so we decided to stay in one of the cabins (very basic) with one or two rooms and bathroom that the local community rents inside Hierve el Agua.

The price when we went was 600 MXN/night for the one-bedroom, one-bathroom cabin. To book the contact is 0052 951 4191895 although you can also try your luck and rent when you arrive (that’s what we did!). In case you stay overnight at Hierve el Agua, be careful, as after closing time after sunset, the food stalls close as well, so buy something for the night and bring plenty of water.

Leaving Hierve el Agua, we had a pot of coffee and a very tasty breakfast at the Mezcal y Leña with very nice views. We recommend it.

Opening hours: Opens at 7:00 am and closes after sunset (depending on the time of year) Price: 50 MXN/person + Entrance fee Pueblo: 20 MXN/person.

How to get to Hierve el Agua from Oaxaca de Juárez:

• Public Transportation: In the case of Hierve el Agua we do not recommend going by public transportation as there is no direct transportation from Oaxaca and you would have to go by two buses/colectivos.
  • Colectivo from Oaxaca to Mitla: The first one would be to Mitla (it leaves next to the Eduardo Vasconcelos Stadium, exactly around here, confirm with your accommodation or with local people), the trip costs about 25 MXN per person and you have to tell the driver that you are going to Hierve El Agua so they will drop you off at the place where the colectivos to Hierve El Agua leave from. You can also share a cab between 4 people, it usually costs about 40 MXN per person.
  • Colectivo from Mitla to Hierve El Agua: from Mitla there are colectivos to Hierve El Agua, only when they are full (about 10 people are needed), unless people decide to pay more to leave earlier. The trip usually costs about 100 MXN per person.
  • To return, it is the same in the opposite direction.
• Own car: If you prefer to rent a car in Oaxaca to get to know the surroundings, this is what we did at Randomtrip. With our rented car it took us 1:30h from Oaxaca to Hierve el Agua. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we included in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you do not want to rent a car, the most practical option is to hire this tour to go and return from Oaxaca to Hierve al Agua with 3 hours of free time in the place or this other tour where in addition to Hierve el Agua they take you to Teotitlán del Valle.

Recommendations to enjoy Hierve el Agua as a responsible tourist:

• Do not use sunscreen if you are going to enter the natural pools. Respect the environment.
• Don’t ride horses. Don’t be an accomplice to animal abuse.
• Do not use drones, it is not allowed to fly drones in the area.
• Do not cut the plants or mistreat the flora in any way.
• Do not listen to loud music, if you want to listen to music, wear headphones.
• Do not step in the water channels
• Take the circular trail. It will take you about an hour, it is very beautiful and you will see the petrified waterfalls from below. Remember to wear appropriate, sturdy, non-slip footwear, bring enough water for the tour, sun protection (hat, sunglasses and sunscreen if you are not going to swim in the natural pools) and a lot of respect for the environment, following the local indications, avoiding leaving trash and keeping the area clean.
• If you can, it pays to go in your own car (owned or rented) and stay overnight in one of the cabins because the sunrise is very special and, at least when we went, there were hardly any people, while at sunset there are many people from the tours. The busiest time is from 2:00 pm until closing time. The tours that leave Oaxaca at 7:00h arrive at Hierve el Agua around 9:00h, so until that time the place is very quiet. However, at sunset, there are tours that stay until 18:00h, 18:30h. If you stay overnight, it is worth going down to the natural pools 15 minutes before sunrise.

Mitla Archaeological Zone

The archaeological site of Mitla is one of the most significant pre-Hispanic sites in the region because it was the second most important city in the Valley of Oaxaca, after Monte Albán, and it was a ceremonial and political center of the Zapotec civilization.

Mitla flourished between 750 and 1521 A.D., and is renowned for its monumental architecture and decorative complexes, more specifically the use of mosaics of grecas and geometric designs on its facades, a technique unique to Mitla. The city is composed of five architectural complexes: Grupo del Norte, Grupo de las Columnas, Grupo del Adobe or Grupo del Calvario, Grupo del Arroyo and Grupo del Sur.

Within the archaeological site is the Church of San Pablo, built on a pre-Hispanic platform. This temple, of neoclassical style with baroque elements, incorporates Zapotec architectural elements, such as monolithic columns and decorative friezes, fusing indigenous traditions with colonial influences.

Mitla is a testament to the advanced architectural and artistic knowledge of the Zapotecs. The precision of its construction and the complexity of its designs reflect a deep understanding of geometry and aesthetics. In addition, the city played a crucial role in Zapotec funerary practices, being considered a resting place for the souls of the dead.

Outside the archaeological site of Mitla there are aisles with several stalls with food and drinks if you want to refresh yourself and also with handicrafts for sale.

How to get to Mitla from Oaxaca de Juárez:

• Public transportation: there are colectivos from Oaxaca to Mitla (they leave next to the Eduardo Vasconcelos Stadium, right around here, confirm with your accommodation or local people). The trip costs about 25 MXN per person.
• Own car: If you prefer to rent a car in Oaxaca to get to visit its surroundings, this is what we did at Randomtrip. With our rented car it took us 1:00h from Hierve el Agua to Mitla. If you go from Oaxaca it will take you 1:30h approx. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we included in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars. Parking: There is a free parking right in front of the entrance to the archaeological site (exactly here). Be careful, there are other parking lots in town where they charge for parking and they say it is the only parking lot but it is not true. At Randomtrip we thought it was and we left the car in one of those parking lots (paying 40 pesos) but we found out later that the closest parking lot to the archaeological site is free.
• Tour: If you do not want to rent a car, you can hire a tour from Oaxaca. This tour takes you to Mitla, Teotitlán del Valle (where you can learn about handicrafts with ancestral techniques), the famous Tule Tree and a Mezcal factory in the same day.

Yagul Caves

The Prehistoric Caves of Yagul and Mitla are located in the Tlacolula Valley, between the archaeological zones of Yagul and Mitla and are of great archaeological and cultural importance.

These caves were inhabited by the first sedentary farmers on the continent, marking the beginning of the transition from nomadic to sedentary societies in Mesoamerica. Human occupation in these caves began around 10,000 BC, during the end of the Ice Age. The inhabitants of the region left vestiges of rock art and utensils that evidence their practices of domestication of plants such as corn, squash and chili.

In 2010, UNESCO declared them a World Heritage Site, recognizing their historical and cultural value.

How to get to Yagul from Oaxaca de Juárez:

• Public transportation: we imagine that the buses that go to Mitla can drop you off at the intersection for the Yagul Caves (although you will have to walk a little while), check with your lodging or local people.
• Taxi/VTC: If there are several of you, cabs can take you to the Yagul Caves from Oaxaca.
• Own car: The easiest way. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators such as DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you don’t want to rent a car and drive, this bike tour seems to take you to the Yagul Caves (confirm before booking).

Tlacolula de Matamoros

Tlacolula has been inhabited since pre-Hispanic times. During the Late Classic period, between 900 and 1200 A.D., the region was an important commercial and cultural center. In addition to Yagul, near Tlacolula is the important archaeological site of Lambityeco, a Zapotec settlement that flourished between 600 BC and 800 AD, known for its salt production and architecture. Also notable for its architecture is the Templo de la Asunción whose interior houses a chapel dedicated to the Lord of Tlacolula, with plasterwork decoration and colonial altarpieces.

But the main attraction of Tlacolula is its Sunday market, considered one of the most complete in Oaxaca.

Every Sunday, the main street and market are bustling, offering a wide variety of local products. If you eat meat, this is the ideal place to try the famous charcoal-grilled tacos de barbacoa de chivo, chorizo, cecina adobada, tasajo or costilla. Part of the Randomtrip team tried them at the “Adolfa” stand and recommends it. There are also classics such as tlayudas, chocolate, chapulines and enfrijoladas. It was in this market that we tasted for the first time pulque (a drink from maguey agave after fermenting), aguamiel, tepache (pineapple ferment), and the famous tejate (a pre-Hispanic cocoa drink). From the bakery, don’t miss the cuernitos, marquesote, pan de cazuela, butter, conchas, hojaldras, yellow bread or wheat bread.

In addition, you can also buy handicrafts and see how barter is still used, where local people exchange products and services, maintaining an ancestral tradition.

Before returning to Oaxaca, we stopped at Casa Tierra with a very nice garden, to have mezcal and mango cocktails with mezcal with Oaxacan friends and we loved it.

How to get to Tlacolula de Matamoros from Oaxaca de Juarez:

• Public Transportation: There is a direct bus from the Central de Abastos that takes 40 minutes, 15 MXN/person to Tlacolula.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you don’t want to rent a car and drive, this tour (with pick-up and drop-off from Oaxaca) takes you to the Tlacolula market, as well as to Yagul and the San Jeronimo Tlacochahuaya church complex.

Santa Maria de Tule and the Tule Tree

Santa María del Tule, a town of Zapotec origin located about 14 km from Oaxaca, is known for being home to the Tule Tree, a majestic Montezuma cypress estimated to be more than 2,000 years old and considered the widest tree in the world.

The diameter of the trunk is 14.5 meters, it is 42 meters high and the circumference of the crown is 58 meters. Its volume is estimated at approximately 816,829 cubic meters, with a weight close to 636 tons. In Santa María del Tule, in addition to other festivities (such as its patronal feast in August or the Virgen de la Candelaria in February), there is a Festival in honor of the Tule Tree (the second Monday of October) where cultural and recreational events are held to commemorate the emblematic and majestic tree.

To enter the enclosure from where the tree is located you will have to pay 20 MXN/person but if you just want to make a quick stop in town, you can see the tree from outside, free of charge.

How to get to Santa María de Tule from Oaxaca de Juárez:

• Public transportation: there are colectivos from the central de abastos in Oaxaca, it costs about 30 MXN. You can also ask a cab how much they charge.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you want to opt for the most sustainable way of getting to know the thickest tree in the world, this tour goes from downtown Oaxaca (the Santo Domingo de Guzman temple) to the Tule Tree by bike on a bicycle path, great! If you don’t want to pedal but don’t want to drive either, this tour takes you to Tule, Teotitlán del Valle and a Mezcal Factory.

Ex Convent of Cuilapam de Guerrero

The Ex-Convent of Cuilápam de Guerrero is a historical and architectural site located about 14 km from Oaxaca. It was built in the 16th century by the Dominican order with the purpose of evangelizing (forcibly) the indigenous peoples of the region. However, its construction was never completed due to lack of resources and conflicts of the time.

One of its most representative elements is its open chapel, a large nave without a roof that allowed the participation of indigenous people in religious ceremonies without the need to enter a closed building. It also has a cloister with arches and frescoes, in which the fusion of European and indigenous influences can be observed.

The convent has a great historical value, since it was the place where General Vicente Guerrero, one of the leaders of the Mexican Independence, was shot on February 14, 1831. This fact gave it its current name, and every year in February his death is commemorated with cultural events.

How to get to the Ex Convent of Cuilapam de Guerrero from Oaxaca de Juárez:

• Public transportation: there are buses to Cuilapam from here. You can also ask a cab how much they charge for the ride.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you prefer, you can visit the ex-convent together with Monte Alban on the same day by booking this tour.

Visiting a Mezcal Palenque

An important feature of Oaxaca’s identity is the mezcal culture, so a highly recommended experience in Oaxaca is to visit a palenque, one of the artisanal distilleries where mezcal is produced. They are usually traditional places, generally located in rural communities, where mezcaleros/as (mezcal masters) elaborate mezcal with ancestral methods.

Mezcal is a traditional Mexican beverage produced from the fermentation and distillation of agave, also known as maguey. It is characterized by its smoky flavor and its great diversity of varieties, depending on the type of agave used, the region of production and the distillation method. Oaxaca is the largest producer in Mexico (about 80%) and if mezcal was not particularly valued before, but tequila was, that has changed in recent decades.

During a tour of a mezcal palenque in Oaxaca, you will learn about the production process, from harvesting the agave to distillation; see the earth ovens where the agave is cooked, which gives it its distinctive smoky flavor; learn about the grinding (traditionally done with tahonas, circular stones pulled by donkeys or horses); see the natural fermentation in wooden vats; observe the distillation process in copper or clay stills; and, of course, taste different types of mezcal and learn to distinguish flavors, aromas and varieties.

One of the easiest ways to learn about the history and tradition behind mezcal, the types of agave and their characteristics, the elaboration process, the differences between artisanal and industrial mezcal and, of course, how to taste a good mezcal correctly is by taking a tour:

• The one we recommend the most is this Mezcal tour through Santa Catarina Minas, a town known for its mezcal tradition where you will visit an artisanal mezcal factory with its agave crops and organic production processes and also includes a tasting of 10 different varieties of mezcal!
• If you prefer to combine the visit to a mezcal factory with other important points around the city, you can combine it with a visit to the Tule tree and the handicrafts of Teotitlán del Valle in this tour, or combine it with Mitla and Teotitlán del Valle in this other tour.

Towns and handicrafts near Oaxaca

To get to know the towns and their handicrafts in the surroundings of Oaxaca is to delve into the cultural richness and ancestral traditions that have given identity to the region. Each community has unique craft techniques, passed down from generation to generation, which reflect the worldview and talent of its inhabitants. From the black clay of San Bartolo Coyotepec to the alebrijes of San Martín Tilcajete and the textiles of Teotitlán del Valle, these villages offer an authentic connection to the art, history and daily life of Oaxaca.

Exploring these places not only enriches knowledge, but also promotes the preservation of traditional crafts and supports local communities. Here are some of the most interesting visits you can make.

San Martin Tilcajete

San Martin Tilcajete is the birthplace of the alebrijes, colorful figures that represent fantastic characters and occupy an important place in Mexican folk art. If in addition to knowing the history of these figures and those who make them, you want to try to make your own alebrije, don’t miss this Alebrijes Workshop in San Martin Tilcajete, reserve your place in the workshop here.

Also, if you visit Oaxaca during carnivals, this is one of the most interesting towns to enjoy it. It is famous for the participation of the “devils” or “tiliches”, characters covered in black paint (or even burnt oil or charcoal) who wear old and colorful clothes and walk the streets dancing and playing who we are attending. It is a celebration with pre-Hispanic and syncretic roots, and is intended to ward off evil spirits and prepare the people for Lent.

How to get to San Martín Tilcajete from Oaxaca de Juárez

• Public Transportation: Bus in the direction of Ocotlán de Morelos at the Central de Abastos and get off at the entrance of the town of San Martín Tilcajete. You can also ask a cab how much it charges.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you don’t have a car and don’t want to go by bus, the best way is to hire this round trip tour to Oaxaca with alebrijes workshop included.

Santo Tomás Jalieza

In Santo Tomás Jalieza there is a community of farmers and artisans, specialized mainly in the manufacture of belts (made of woven leather) and the ancestral art of the backstrap loom (which we had also seen in the Tzotzil community of Zinacantán, a town near San Cristóbal de las Casas, in Chiapas).

How to get to Santo Tomás Jalieza from Oaxaca de Juárez

• Public Transportation: bus in the direction of Santo Tomás Jalieza at the Central de Abastos.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you prefer to go on a tour, this includes a visit to Santo Tomás Jalieza and San Martín de Tilcajete on the way to Ocotlán de Morelos.

San Bartolo Coyotepec

Known for its black clay, a black ceramic with a metallic sheen, in San Bartolo Coyotepec there are more than 6000 thousand families producing it. It has a Museum of Popular Art (MEAPÓ) with an interesting permanent exhibition and several temporary exhibitions.

How to get to San Bartolo Coyotepec from Oaxaca de Juárez

• Public transportation: bus to San Bartolo Coyotepec from the Central de Abastos.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you prefer to go on a tour, book your Excursion to Monte Alban, Arrazola and San Bartolo Coyotepec here.

Teotitlán del Valle

Teotitlán del Valle is known for the production of textiles, more specifically, it is famous for its carpets. It has the Balaa Xtee Guech Gulal Museum, managed by the local community, about the traditions and customs of Teotitlán del Valle. We highlight a recommendation to buy some of the beautiful local textiles: the Vida Nueva Women’s Cooperative. Given the gender inequality in the indigenous communities of Oaxaca, where Teoltitlán del Valle is no exception, where women face discrimination and limited access to employment and educational opportunities, contributing to this type of cooperative is a contribution to their empowerment. You can find out more about the project on their instagram.

How to get to Teotitlán del Valle from Oaxaca de Juárez

• Public transportation: bus to Teotitlán del Valle from the Central de Abastos.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars
• Tour: If you prefer to go on a tour, this excursion takes you to Teotitlán del Valle (where you can learn about handicrafts with ancestral techniques), Mitla, the famous Tule Tree and a Mezcal factory in the same day.

Santa María Atzompa

Santa María Atzompa is a town in Oaxaca that has been producing pottery for at least 2,000 years. In fact, in the first half of the 20th century, Atzompa was the main producer of pottery in the southeast of Mexico, however, this boom stopped due to the presence of lead in the glaze used in the pottery. Today, lead-free glazes are produced, carving the natural and glazed clay and creating unique pieces (of which we at Randomtrip brought back a beautiful set of coffee cups).

How to get to Santa María Atzompa from Oaxaca de Juárez

• Public transportation: bus in the direction of Santa María Atzompa at the Central de Abastos.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars

San Marcos de Tlapazola

San Marcos de Tlapazola, whose name comes from the Nahuatl language and translates as “Place of nests”, is a small rural community where most of the women are dedicated to the production of red clay handicrafts.

How to get to San Marcos de Tlapazola from Oaxaca de Juárez

• Public Transportation: bus in the direction of San Marcos de Tlapazola at the Central de Abastos.
• Own car: The easiest option. With the rented car you can also visit other nearby plans that we include in the guide or go to the coast. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars

RandomTIP: Remember that when you buy local handicrafts, you are buying a unique piece and supporting the work of artisans and their communities, the result of hours, even days, of dedication and skills passed down from generation to generation. It is important to value their effort by paying a fair price and avoiding bargaining, since behind each creation there are quality materials, time and the talent of those who keep these traditions alive.

Things to see and do in the coast of Oaxaca

Oaxaca’s coastline stretches along the Pacific Ocean and is home to all kinds of beaches, from golden sandy beaches to relax on to towering waves for surfing and even biodiverse, bioluminescent lagoons.

In 2024 highway that connects the city of Oaxaca de Juarez with the coast of Oaxaca was inaugurated, making the previous long journey through the mountains (an odyssey that took 9 hours) shorter for 3 hours by car (a little more if you get stuck in a traffic jam). At Randomtrip we rented a car in Oaxaca de Juarez to explore the Oaxacan coast and this is what we recommend you to do to move around freely. We recommend you to use comparators like DiscoverCars.

To explore the coast of Oaxaca, we made four bases: Puerto Escondido(we stayed near Zicatela, our favorite area), Chacahua (we stayed in a beachfront cabin in the middle of the national park), Mazunte (we stayed in an amazing cabin in Mermejita beach and explored not only the beaches of Mazunte but also Zipolite and Puerto Angel which are close) and Huatulco (we made base in this small family-run inn in La Crucecita where there is a lot of restaurant offer). Here we highlight the main beach areas but we will detail everything to see in the Oaxacan Coast in our complete guide that we will publish soon.

Puerto Escondido and Zicatela

Despite its name, Puerto Escondido (hidden port) is not hidden at all (even less so since the opening of the new road from Oaxaca) and is the most famous spot on the coast of Oaxaca, known for the different beaches where you can cool off with lots of atmosphere and local party in the beach bars, some beaches to relax and others ideal for surfing.

Playa Zicatela, in particular, is internationally renowned precisely for its waves that can reach up to six meters high, which makes it a favorite destination for surfers. In general, this area is not the spot on the coast for those looking for tranquility, but rather for partying.

Where to stay in Puerto Escondido

In Puerto Escondido we stayed at Casa Terranova (from 60$/night depending on the season), a small hotel with pool and ocean view, with parking for our rental car, in a quiet area of Puerto Escondido but very close to Zicatela, our area of choice. We liked it very much, we recommend it.

Chacahua

The Lagunas de Chacahua National Park is a protected area that includes lagoons, mangroves and virgin beaches. Known for its biodiversity, it is a refuge for various species of birds and reptiles, and also for those seeking tranquility and to learn to surf since Chacahua beach is known for its good waves for beginners.

At Randomtrip we slept in a beachfront cabin, enjoyed one of the best sunsets of the trip and saw the bioluminescence breaking in the waves at night. It was one of our favorite places on the Oaxacan coast and although it is not easy to get to (or precisely because of it), it invites you to stay several days of relaxation.

Where to stay in Chacahua

In Chacahua we stayed in a beachfront cabin where we could take a dip as soon as we woke up and sleep to the sound of the waves. They are called Cabañas Alta Mar (from 40$/night) and it’s a paradise.

Mazunte

This small coastal town is known for its more hippie, LGTBQ+ friendly, less local vibe than Puerto Escondido. It promotes an eco-friendly approach (which smells a lot like greenwashing in some places), beautiful beaches and a commitment to sea turtles. In fact, it is here that you will find the Mexican Turtle Center, dedicated to the conservation of sea turtles.

As soon as we arrived, Mazunte welcomed us with live jazz at sunset in Mermejita and, to be honest, it stole our hearts a little bit. Here we experienced some of the best sunsets on the Oaxacan coast, especially the sunset at Punta Cometa, the southernmost point of Oaxaca.

Where to stay in Mazunte

In Mazunte we stayed in one of the Cabañas El Cactus (from 88$/night) and loved it. It is located on Playa Mermejita, one of the most beautiful beaches to enjoy the sunset and within walking distance of the famous Punta Cometa (next to a shortcut) as well as close to the nightlife of Playa Mazunte and Playa Rinconcito but far enough away to get a good night’s rest.

Zipolite

Famous for being the only legal nude beach in Mexico, Zipolite offers a bohemian and relaxed atmosphere. In addition, its long beach is a famous surfing destination.

Puerto Angel

The fishing port of Puerto Angel is located in a horseshoe-shaped bay, with beaches of calm waters ideal for swimming. However, it is an area with quite a local atmosphere and during weekends and vacation periods it gets crowded.

Huatulco and its Bays

Huatulco National Park stands out for its nine bays and more than thirty beaches with crystal clear waters. Each bay, such as San Agustin, Chacahual, Cacaluta, Tangolunda or Santa Cruz, offer unique landscapes and activities ranging from diving to ecotourism in the National Park.

The ideal way to get a good idea of the park is to take a boat trip through the bays as we did at Randomtrip. Book your boat tour in Huatulco National Park here.

Where to stay in Huatulco

In Huatulco we made a base for exploration in La Crucecita where there is a wide range of accommodation and restaurants. We stayed at the modest Posada Jois (from 68$/night), a small hotel run by a charming family, with comfortable and clean rooms, parking space and very central, ideal for walking to dinner after a day of exploring with the car.

Get inspired with stories from our visit to Oaxaca

You can see featured Instagram stories about our visit to Oaxaca and surroundings here and about our visit to the Oaxaca Coast here.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

The best areas to stay in Oaxaca are downtown, as close as possible to the Templo Santo Domingo de Guzmán or the Zócalo (although we prefer near the Templo de Santo Domingo because there is more movement at night) or in the colorful neighborhood of Jalatlaco where we stayed at Randomtrip most of our days there. If you visit the city on Day of the Dead, you should book your accommodation well in advance and, if you can, try to stay in one of the most special neighborhoods to experience it, such as Jalatlaco or Xochimilco (near Plaza Cruz de Piedra).

At Randomtrip we stayed in two accommodations in Oaxaca, in an apartment in Jalatlaco where we stayed for two weeks to explore the city and surroundings, and then in a room at the Parador Monte Carmelo (from 92$/night) in the center, very close to the Templo de Santo Domingo, where we stayed for a few days after returning from the Oaxacan coast, before saying goodbye to the city.

To make it easier for you to find the best possible accommodation in Oaxaca, in a safe area and close to the liveliness and gastronomic offer, we have made a selection ordered from lowest to highest price, according to the type of experience you are looking for (or if it is a special occasion):

• Hotel Posada San Rafael (Jalatlaco, from 800 MXN – 35$ / night), economical option in Jalatlaco
• Hotel Magda (Jalatlaco, from 900 MXN – 40$ / night): single double rooms in Jalatlaco.
• Hotel Boutique Casa Abuela María (Centro, from 1300 MXN – 60$ / night): single double rooms at a good price in the center of town.
• Selina Oaxaca (Centro, from 1400 MXN – 65$ / night): Selinas are usually a sure bet for location and comfort at reasonable prices. The one in Oaxaca is located next to the Andador.

• Casa Mixteca Santo Domingo (Centro, from 1500 MXN – 70$ / night): house with 1 bedroom and kitchen in the center of Oaxaca.
• Hotel Cazomalli Oaxaca (Jalatlaco, from 1500 MXN – 70$ / night), double rooms in Jalatlaco and roof terrace.
• Casa de Los Frailes (Centro, from 1900 MXN – 85$ / night): next to the Museo de la Filatelia and the Templo de Santo Domingo, colonial style lodging, with terrace on top.
• Parador Monte Carmelo (Centro, from 2000 MXN – 90$ / night): here we stayed the last nights, it is a colonial style accommodation, with a central patio, and terrace overlooking Oaxaca.
• La Casa del Pino (Centro, from 3200 MXN – 145$ / night): 1-bedroom apartments with kitchen and swimming pool in the center of town.
• City Centro by Marriot (Jalatlaco, from 3300 MXN – 150$ / night): modern double rooms in Jalatlaco, with rooftop pool
• Boulenc Bed And Bread (Centro, from 4400 MXN – 200$ / night): boutique hotel of the delicious Boulenc bakery/pastry shop, superbly decorated rooms, breakfast included and rooftop terrace overlooking the city.

The prices of the above mentioned accommodations are subject to change according to season and room types.

Where to eat in Oaxaca

Being Oaxaca the gastronomic capital of Mexico, eating and tasting typical food is one of the activities you cannot miss on your trip to the city. You will almost certainly be short of days to try everything, since there is a wide range of restaurants and street food. Here is a small list of typical dishes or foods of Oaxaca, and below are some recommended restaurants and street food stalls .

What to eat: Typical food and beverages of Oaxaca

As in all of Mexico, corn is one of the main ingredients and the basis of the cuisine. Here is a small list of typical dishes or foods from Oaxaca:

• Tlayudas: large corn tortilla (about 30 cm in diameter) that is browned on a comal (flat utensil on which tortillas and other foods are cooked in Mexico), crispy and brittle, on which various ingredients are placed (usually beans, cabbage, cheese, tomato, and some type of meat such as tasajo, cecina, etc.). The ingredients can vary. A good place to try them is at Mercado 20 de Noviembre (at Comedor Chabelita) or at Mercado de la Merced (at Fonda Florecita).

• Moles (negro, amarillo, coloradito…): the word mole (from the Nahuatl molli or mulli meaning ground) is used in Mexico to refer to sauces made mainly with chili and spices. The best known in Mexico is the one from Puebla, but the ones from Oaxaca are also famous and there are 7 variants: amarillo, manchamantel, negro, coloradito, rojo, chichilo and verde. It may be difficult to try them all, but you will find them in many places, accompanying meats or other foods. Of the places where we tried them, we can recommend Empanadas del Carmen (only at night, a street food stand, where we tried the empanadas de amarillo) and Levadura de Olla (an upscale restaurant where we tried the mole coloradito).
• Memelas: memelas (or memelitas) are oval corn dough tortillas, but thick, spread with lard, and topped with salsa (morita or tomato) and a little cheese. Some of the most famous are those of Doña Vale (in the Central de Abastos in Oaxaca), which was featured in the program Street Food: Latin America on Netflix and in Somebody Feed Phil, also on Netflix (in fact they have a memela that is the “Phil’s Special”); it is necessary to go early (in the morning) as they are sold out later and there is usually a line.

• Oaxacan tamales: the tamal is a pre-Hispanic food from Mesoamerica. In Mexico there are many varieties of tamales, and within Oaxaca there are also many variants, although they are usually referred to as Oaxacan tamales those that are made in banana leaves and filled with a bean dough. But as we say, there is a lot of variety so we encourage you to try them all. In our case we tried an incredible one at Levadura de Olla, the Tamal Barbacollita (in avocado leaf, with corn, chili marinade, pork and chicken).
• Pan de cazuela: typical bread of Tlacolula, its name comes from the fact that it was formerly baked in clay pots (today it is made in clean sardine tins, since many pots broke inside the wood oven).
• Tasajo: a type of beef cut, very typical of Oaxaca. You can try it when you taste the tlayudas, at Mercado 20 de Noviembre (in Comedor Chabelita).
• Chapulines: a type of insect (like grasshoppers and crickets) that have been consumed in Oaxaca since pre-Hispanic times. You can find them in large quantities in the markets, and in some restaurants as part of a dish.

• Pozole: another very typical Mexican dish, with a multitude of variations throughout the country. It is a broth made with nixtamalized corn kernels, and with vegetables, meats and spices that vary according to the area.
• Tacos de Barbacoa: on Sundays in the Tlacolula market they serve tacos de barbacoa (lamb or goat stew that takes several hours of laborious preparation and is cooked underground), so many people go there for it and to see the market’s handicraft stalls. You can also order consommé (broth). In our case we tried it at Adolfa’s stall in the Tlacolula Market, but all the stalls looked very good.
• Empanadas de Amarillo: another typical Oaxacan dish, they receive this name because of their color (due to the yellow mole). They are large tortillas, made on the comal, usually with mole amarillo, chicken and hierba santa or cilantro. We repeated several times those of Empanadas del Carmen Alto.

And here are some typical Oaxacan drinks to add to your list to try:

• Mezcal: Mezcal is a type of alcoholic beverage obtained from the distillation of the heart of the Maguey (or Agave). In Mexico, mezcal is produced in several regions, although the largest producer is the state of Oaxaca. There are different types of Maguey (the plant), and therefore also different types of mezcals, the most well known being Tequila (yes, Tequila is a type of Mezcal! It is obtained from a specific type of Maguey, the Agave Tequilero or Blue Agave). As with all alcoholic beverages, there are better and worse, depending on the ingredients, the process, the variant, etc. While in Oaxaca, we recommend that you try artisanal mezcals. An excellent place to do so is Sobrio, by Mezcal Speakeasy, in the heart of downtown Oaxaca, where the charming Carlos and his team work directly with small producers in the state and where you can do a tasting and receive an explanation about the origin of Mezcal and its varieties. Another place with a similar concept is Quiote Mezcalería, by Celia, in the Xochimilco neighborhood.

• Tejate: pre-Hispanic drink made from corn and cocoa. It is drunk cool, you will see it in markets and street stalls in a large bowl with a kind of foam on the surface, which, it must be said, does not look very good, but do not get carried away by the impressions and try it, it is very tasty.
• Chocolate: chocolate is another typical product of Oaxaca (although there is hardly any cocoa production in the state, so they have to import it from other places like Chiapas or Tabasco). You can try chocolate at Chocolate Mayordomo, one of the most famous places to do so, or for example at Flor Cacao.
• Tepache: fermented drink with low alcohol content (less than 1%), formerly based on corn, but today it is made with sweet fruits such as pineapple.

Best street food stalls in Oaxaca

Without a doubt, trying street food is one of the things you can’t miss in Oaxaca: you will eat delicious dishes at very good prices. From here we want to thank Teresa (from Broganabroad, you can see some of her gastronomic recommendations in Oaxaca on her Instagram), an expert in Oaxaca, who in addition to infecting us with her love for the city, has recommended us delicious places to lick our fingers.

Here are some street food recommendations to include in your visit to Oaxaca:

• Empanadas del Carmen Alto: one of our favorite options. 50 pesos per quesadilla. We recommend the quesadilla de flor de calabaza and the empanada de amarillo (which is red in color), both are spectacular. For salsa, try the dry chile sauce. Accompanied with delicious mango water (mango juice) for 20 pesos. They are only open from 5pm.
• Memelas at Doña Vale: very famous because it was featured on the show Street Food: Latin America on Netflix and Somebody Feed Phil, also on Netflix (in fact it has a memela that is the “Phil Special”); it is necessary to go early (in the morning) as they are sold out later and there is usually a line. You can accompany the memelas with a chocolate. It is located in the Central de Abastos in Oaxaca.
• Comedor Chabelita in the Mercado 20 de Noviembre: delicious tlayudas, we tried the vegetarian and tasajo tlayudas
• Pasillo de Humo: also in the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, is an area where there are several butcher shops that sell meats and grill them over charcoal, which you can accompany with tortillas and other condiments. The name comes from the amount of smoke from grilling the meat over charcoal.
• Fonda Florecita and Fonda San Diego in the Mercado de la Merced: delicious tlayudas, moles and chiles rellenos
• Lechoncito de Oro: taqueria specializing in tacos de lechón (also featured on Somebody Feed Phil on Netflix).
• Cangreburger: After-hours burger made with a lot of care in the center, in case you go out to party and you get hungry.

If you want to learn more about gastronomy and street food in Oaxaca, you can take a tour like this one that takes you to two of the city’s markets to try different dishes, this one that combines some of the city’s tourist attractions with street food, or even take a cooking class like this one where they take you to the market first to buy the fresh ingredients (you have a vegetarian option too).

Best restaurants in Oaxaca

In addition to a large number and variety of street food stalls, Oaxaca has a huge gastronomic offer of very good quality and for all tastes. Here is a selection of restaurants to try during your visit to the city:

• Levadura de Olla: our favorite restaurant in our favorite city of our trip to Mexico. Difficult, isn’t it? Well, that’s why we consider it a must. It has delicious vegan and vegetarian options, as well as typical and fusion dishes of Oaxacan gastronomy. We tried tomato salad (with 10 different varieties of tomatoes from the more than 20 that exist in Oaxaca) with fruit vinaigrette; tamal barbacollita; and mole coloradito. For drinks we tried mango and pineapple water, guava and pennyroyal water (water of the day) and passion fruit mezcalina. For dessert “Mango: Tamarind foam, mango sorbet, fresh mango and chili powder”. And pot coffee, of course. 1500 MXN (about 70$) for the two of us with 15% tip included.

• Café Boulenc: there are two, one downtown and the other one where we were staying in the Jalatlaco neighborhood. Excellent espresso, croissants, paninis and even cocktails in a nice and quiet space. We ate here several times

• Doña Ceci: recommended to us by Dejan, our guide during the Free Tour, to eat good, nice and cheap (30 pesos a taco). Recommended for tacos de guisado, although they also have tortas, tlayudas, quesadillas…
• Los Danzantes Oaxaca: haute cuisine restaurant based on Oaxacan gastronomy. It has a Michelin star since 2024.
• Almú: on the outskirts of the city, to taste the mole negro, other moles, and traditional Oaxacan dishes.
• Chocolate Mayordomo: a well-known place in the middle of the Zócalo to try Oaxaca’s chocolate. If you want something less famous, we recommend Flor Cacao.
• Cobarde: creative cuisine with terrace and views of the Cathedral.
• Parián Atelier: Delicious proposals of typical Oaxacan dishes. We liked it very much.

• Casa Oaxaca: contemporary Oaxacan restaurant, considered one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca. It has a terrace overlooking the Templo de Santo Domingo.
• Taco Sireno: very good fish and shrimp tacos baja style, next to the Llano park.

• Humito: restaurant of the famous Oaxacan singer Lila Downs, on Thursdays there are usually jazz concerts, and sometimes it is possible to see the artist right there.
• La Popular: Oaxacan dishes at reasonable prices
• La Casa del Tío Güero: traditional Oaxacan food restaurant (moles, tlayudas) also at reasonable prices.
• Las Quince Letras: traditional Mexican cuisine, you can order the trilogy, to try three moles.
• Telaseu Korean BBQ & Steakhouse: if you’re in the mood for something different, this is a Korean BBQ restaurant.
• Café Bistrot Epicuro: if you are craving for pizza, this Italian restaurant is not bad.
• Santa Hierba: hipster café with vegan, vegetarian and celiac-friendly options
• Once in Oaxaca: cute coffee shop for good coffee and some sweet treats

Where to drink mezcal, have a drink or party in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a perfect city to have a drink, taste mezcals (or cocktails) and enjoy the nightlife. Here are some recommendations:

• Sobrio by Mezcal Speakeasy from Carlos: mezcaleria in the heart of downtown Oaxaca that works with artisanal mezcals made by small local producers. You can do a tasting where they explain more about mezcal and try several, or ask them directly to recommend some to try.

• Quiote Mezcalería from Celia: similar concept to the previous one, but in the Xochimilco neighborhood.
• La Cantinita: excellent cocktails and good ambiance
• La Popular: good atmosphere to go out, they also have food.
• Sabina Sabe: good cocktails
• Cantina Salón de la Fama: typical cantina where you can have a drink.
• Selva bar: another place for cocktails
• NOIS: excellent cocktails, also has original food.
• Txalaparta: live music and a great place to go out at night.

Oaxaca Itineraries

Here are different itinerary suggestions based on the number of days you have to visit the city of Oaxaca and its surroundings. We consider that 3-4 days is the ideal time to dedicate to the city and to visit some of the planes in the surroundings, although if you have more time you can enjoy more and get to know the area better, as well as adding a few days on the coast of Oaxaca.

Things to see and do Oaxaca in 1 day

If you only have one day, you can take a walking tour of Oaxaca’s main points of interest. Here is a suggested route for a day in Oaxaca, assuming you have the whole day:

• Start in the area of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, where you have the temple itself (open from 9 to 10), the Ethnobotanical Garden (only guided tours without reservation at 10, 11 and 12 – be there 15 minutes before) and the Museum of the Cultures of Oaxaca, in case you dare to enter (from the museum you will have a nice view of the Garden).
• If you do not enter the Garden or the Museum, you can continue to the Templo del Carmen Alto, the Plaza Cruz de Piedra, the arches of Xochimilco, and continue to visit the Zocalo and the Cathedral.
• For lunch, you can go to one of the markets, such as Mercado 20 de Noviembre, where you can try a tlayuda or meat in the smoky aisle.
• In the afternoon, you can go to the Jalatlaco neighborhood, stroll through its streets and take pictures with its wonderful street art.
• After Jalatlaco, go back to the center, and you can choose to visit some of the missing places: a museum (the Philatelic Museum, the Textile Museum, the Mezcal Museum…), visit another market (like the Benito Juarez where you can buy handicrafts) or the Plaza de la Danza and the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
• End the day with more street food, we recommend the Empanadas del Carmen Alto stand, or if you prefer you can make reservations at one of the amazing restaurants we recommend in the city. Afterwards, be sure to try some artisanal mezcals, for example at Sobrio as we recommend in the guide.

Things to see and do in Oaxaca in 2 days

If you have two days for Oaxaca, you can do the one-day plan with more calm and entering the museums and temples to appreciate them well, or add some nearby plan like going to Monte Alban, Mitla or Hierve El Agua.

Sample 2-day itinerary to make the most of Oaxaca:

• Day 1: downtown Oaxaca (Santo Domingo Temple, Ethnobotanical Garden, Museum of Cultures, Xochimilco, 20 de Noviembre Market for lunch, Jalatlaco, more museums/markets or Plaza de la Danza, and finish with gastronomic plan and mezcal).
• Day 2: Tour to Hierve El Agua and Teotitlán del Valle ( 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.)

Things to see and do in Oaxaca in 3 days

With 3 days in Oaxaca you can add more things to the 2 day itinerary, or split the day in Oaxaca city in 2 to enjoy more of the sites, enter museums, etc. If you want to make the most of your time, here is our suggested 3 day itinerary in Oaxaca:

• Day 1: downtown Oaxaca (Santo Domingo Temple, Ethnobotanical Garden, Museum of Cultures, Xochimilco, 20 de Noviembre Market for lunch, Jalatlaco, more museums/markets or Plaza de la Danza, and finish with gastronomic plan and mezcal).
• Day 2: Tour to Hierve El Agua and Teotitlán del Valle ( 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.)
• Day 3: Tour to Monte Albán, Arrazola (alebrijes) and San Bartolo Coyotepec (barro negro) 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.)

Things to see and do in Oaxaca in 4 days

4 days seems to us the ideal amount of time to enjoy the city of Oaxaca two of the days and get to know the surroundings the other two. Here is a suggested itinerary for 4 days in Oaxaca:

• Day 1: downtown Oaxaca
• Day 2: Tour to Hierve El Agua and Teotitlán del Valle ( 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.)
• Day 3: Tour to Monte Albán, Arrazola (alebrijes) and San Bartolo Coyotepec (barro negro) 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.)
• Day 4: downtown Oaxaca

Transportation: Getting around Oaxaca

The center of Oaxaca is accessible on foot, so we recommend that you plan to walk to the main points of interest. If it is very hot, you have a longer distance to travel or at night, you can order safe cabs with the Didi app.

If you plan to visit the surroundings of Oaxaca (Monte Alban, Hierve el Agua, Mitla…) you can get there by public transportation, with a cab or as we did at RandomTrip, renting a car. For the coast of Oaxaca (Puerto escondido, Mazunte, Huatulco…) it is also advisable to rent a car, although you also have ADO buses that take you to Puerto Escondido in about 3 hours.

To rent a car, we recommend that you use comparators such as Discover Cars to see the different companies available, and check not only the price but also the conditions (insurance included, deposit, excess, etc.) to avoid surprises.

In our case, we rented a car in downtown Oaxaca to go to Mitla, Hierve El Agua, Arbol de Tule and a few other places and then continue exploring the Oaxaca Coast, returning the car in downtown Oaxaca. We rented with the company Ñuu Kava, paid 800 pesos a day (about 40$), with a deposit of 10,000 pesos (you swipe your credit card as a guarantee) and an excess of 20,000 pesos, quite high (almost 1000$), so if something happened we would have to pay up to the maximum of 20,000 pesos. The excess could be eliminated by paying 700 pesos more per day (almost double), so we decided to take a chance (we booked just a few days before). If you book in advance, we recommend you to look for an option with full insurance without excess to avoid problems.

How to get internet in Oaxaca

To always have internet on your smartphone, the easiest and most convenient way (if your phone supports eSIM) is to buy an eSIM from Holafly, which has unlimited data (you get a 5% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP), or to buy an eSIM from Airalo, cheaper but with limited data (15% discount with the code RANDOMTRIP15)

The other option, cheaper but more cumbersome, is to buy a local SIM, which we recommend is from Telcel (the main telecom company in Mexico, with more coverage).

Safety: Is it safe to travel to Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is a very touristy and relatively safe city, so it is safe to visit Oaxaca. As in any city, it is advisable to take some extra precautions (pickpocketing and robberies are common), especially in crowded areas or at busy times. It is advisable to be extra careful at night, all the local people constantly recommended us to always move by cab at night, and especially in neighborhoods outside the center such as Xochimilco (there are often reports of armed robberies at dawn, so it is simply better to take a cab).

In any case, we always have our Iati travel insurance (which also covers our belongings) as in all our trips and gives us more peace of mind. If you contract your travel insurance in this Randomtrip link, you will get it with a 5% discount.

Money in Oaxaca: cards, tips to save on commissions and tips

To pay and withdraw money in Mexico while minimizing fees, we recommend the 2 cards we use in our case:

• Revolut: with the standard version up to 1000$ without commission on card payments (remember to always pay in local currency – Mexican pesos). Up to 400$ of withdrawals at ATMs without commission, from then on commission of 1%.
• N26: with the free version you can pay with your card without commissions in an unlimited way. For ATM withdrawals, you pay 1.7% commission, which you can eliminate by paying for the monthly plans You (the one we use) or Metal.

It is important to keep in mind that although your card does not charge a fee for ATM withdrawals, ATMs in Mexico do charge a fee for their use. The ones that charge the least are Banamex (31 pesos, 1.7$), Banco Santander (34 pesos, 1.8$) or Banco Azteca (34 pesos, 1.8$), so when withdrawing money try to withdraw as much as possible to save money.

Another important issue when withdrawing money at an ATM in Mexico: many times the ATM will ask you if you want the transaction to be done in local currency (Mexican pesos) or in your own currency (in our case, it was euros): always choose the local currency option, otherwise, it will apply an unfavorable exchange rate and you will be overpaying (as a hidden commission).

The above also applies to card payments (although the option almost never appears, on several occasions also when paying with a card in establishments we were shown an amount in euros instead of pesos). In our case it almost always happened to us with the orange CLIP terminals. If this happens to you, ask the person to charge you in Mexican pesos.

A bad practice in Mexico is that in any business where you want to pay with a card, they have the habit of asking you for your card and do the whole process themselves, passing you the terminal only to enter the PIN (in Mexico they call it “firma” or NIP). This means that sometimes, depending on the type of terminal, you do not see the amount and/or you are charged in the original currency of your card instead of in Mexican pesos – making you lose money because an unfavorable conversion is applied. Always ask nicely to be allowed to see the process to make sure you are charged the correct amount and in local currency.

Finally, some establishments charge an extra commission for payment by card (the times it happened to us, it was 5%), they always tell you before and if you do not see it when confirming the amount. In those cases, it is better to pay with cash.

Tipping: The tipping culture is very well established in Mexico, and although it is not and cannot be obligatory by law, it is in practice, since it is frowned upon not to leave a tip. It is recommended to leave a minimum of 10% (usually you will be asked at the time of payment, and if you pay by credit card, the terminal usually gives you the option of adding 10, 15 or 20% as a tip).

How much does a trip to Oaxaca cost?

Budgeting is complex as it depends a lot on your type of trip: how many plans you want to include in your trip, if you are going to go to restaurants or eat street food (or cook) to save money, the type of accommodation you are going to book… In any case, so you can get an idea, we leave below the average prices and what we consider as average price per day (we reiterate that these are ORIENTATIVE prices and may vary at any time):

• Flights/transportation within Mexico: from 1200 MXN (60$) a round-trip domestic flight from other areas of Mexico. From 1000 MXN (50$) round trip ADO from Mexico City. Use flight comparators like Skyscanner and Kiwi to find the best price.
• Transportation: you can get around the city on foot or by Didi (from 50 MXN – 2.5$ each way).
• Accommodation: from 800 MXN (40$)/night for a room with private bathroom or small apartment with kitchen. Find accommodation of all types and prices on Booking, with up to 15% discount.
• Restaurants: a multitude of options between 50 and 1000MXN (between 2.5 and 50$) per person, for all tastes (street food, traditional restaurants, haute cuisine restaurants…).
• Entrance fees: some places require an entrance fee (between 20 and 100 MXN – between 1 and 5$).

In total, a weekend trip (2 nights) to Oaxaca can cost you between 800 and 1000 pesos (between 40 and 50$) per person per day, with the cheapest lodging options, eating street food and visiting some of the paying sites (not counting flights to Mexico).

Useful Apps to get around Oaxaca

• Didi (Android / iOS): app similar to Uber to order cabs (Uber does not work in Oaxaca), it is safe although sometimes you have to wait to get a cab.
• Google Maps (Android / iOS): is the one we use to save/classify all the places we want to go/ have gone and as a GPS to orient ourselves on foot or if we rent a car. It also includes public transport information if there is any. You can see other people’s opinions of the places, photos, restaurant menus, telephone numbers to contact them, etc. You can also open our map with all the places included in this guide.
• Maps.me (Android / iOS): application similar to Google Maps but works offline (although Google Maps can also work offline, this one works better) and in many cases has information that Google Maps does not have.
• Windy (Android / iOS / Web): essential app for our trips. It allows you to see forecasts of rain, clouds, wind, etc. to help you plan your days based on the weather (as there are places that lose a lot depending on the weather). Obviously the forecasts are not 100% reliable.

Tips for responsible travel in Oaxaca

As we mentioned at the beginning of this guide, Oaxaca is having “growing pains” as a result of tourism and gentrification, so we recommend that you put extra emphasis on trying to reduce your impact when visiting the city. Here are a few things to keep in mind

• Oaxaca is suffering from water supply problems: many houses have their own water tanks that they fill every X amount of time, but when there is a lack of water the demand increases and it may be necessary to wait days or weeks until they come to bring it, besides the prices go up, affecting especially the poorest population. It is therefore very important to minimize water consumption (take short showers and take advantage of every drop).
• Avoid bargaining when buying handicrafts and avoid buying from street vendors (who usually sell industrial products and not handicrafts, making unfair competition to artisans who sell their art).
• Be responsible when visiting a place: a large influx of people to a certain site can have a negative impact so respect the rules, do not climb the tree/monument you are visiting, do not paint on its walls, avoid touching it, etc.
• Take care of the natural and archaeological monuments, respect the existing rules and do not monopolize the site with your photos.
• If you rent a car, respect the speed limits on highways.
• Avoid the use of single use plastic and do not throw garbage away
• Respect other people: don’t play your music loud, pick up your trash; don’t throw cigarette butts, etc. Leave the place better than you found it.
• Always travel with travel insurance: medical expenses, theft or problems with your plane on a trip can cost you a lot of money, so the ideal thing is to take out travel insurance. At Randomtrip we always use IATI and we recommend it. If you purchase your insurance through this link you have a 5% discount.

Here is also a list of things NOT to do in Oaxaca made by Frank Coronado, an Oaxacan blogger: https://frankcoronado.com/cosas-que-no-debes-hacer-en-oaxaca/

Checklist: what to pack in your backpack/suitcase for Oaxaca

Here is a list of must-haves you can’t forget to bring on your trip to Oaxaca:

• International plug adapter such as these as they use type A plugs (those with two flat parallel pins).
• A reusable water bottle like one of these to carry water with you all the time and void single-use plastic.
• A hat or a cap (like this one) and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun
• Windbreaker waterproof jacket: like this one, specially if you visit during the rainy season
• A good camera to register your adventures. At Randomtrip we carry a Sony ZV-E10 and a Gopro Hero12 Black (for underwater pictures)
• A Power bank: taking so many pictures will drain your batteries, so it’s always a good idea to carry a good powerbank. At Randomtrip we travel with these 2 (Anker 20000 mAh and  Anker 10000 mAh), which allow us to charge both our phones and our cameras.
• Sun screen: the sun is strong in Baja California Sur so it is a must to take care of your skin. Always look for a Coral Friendly Sunscreen, i.e. one that protects your skin without harming marine ecosystems by avoiding ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are harmful to corals. Nor that it has been tested on animals.
• Mosquito repellent: like this one, it should have at least 15% deet
• First aid kit: In our first-aid kit there is always a medicine against seasickness (such as biodramine for seasickness on boats), antibiotics, anti-diarrhea medication (and a probiotic to recover more quickly), antihistamines, painkillers and antipyretics and, of course, travel insurance. If you hire your travel insurance with IATI using this link you will get a 5% discount

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A special thanks to Teresa (from Broganabroad, you can see some of her recommendations in Oaxaca on her Instagram) who besides infecting us with her love for the city (and for life in general), took us by the hand to her favorite places, introduced us to amazing people, and made us want to come back even more. Thanks, Teresa!

And you, Randomtripper, have we managed to express our love for Oaxaca and why it has become our favorite city in Mexico? If we’ve infected you with the desire to explore it, what are you waiting for?…Come on, let’s go!