Gray Whale Watching in Magdalena Bay (Baja California Sur, Mexico) with Magdalena Bay Whales: everything you need to know

What if we told you that there is a place in the middle of nature that can only be reached by boat, in a bay full of whales where you can fall asleep to the sound of the waves and wake up to the blowing of the whales? Hello Magdalena Bay, home of the gray whales, where they are born and return every year, and where we had one of the most incredible experiences of our lives .

In this guide you will find everything you need to do the gray whale watching activity in one of the best places in the world to do it, with practical information about the best season to go, prices, who to do it with, how many days, whale watching rules and even where to stay to make your experience as special as ours was.

Check out our complete guide to Baja California Sur if you are planning a trip to the area.

Basic data for gray whale watching in Magdalena Bay

How to get there: The closest airports in Baja California Sur (Mexico) are Loreto (2h30) and La Paz (3h), although you also have the airport of Los Cabos 5h30 away. We recommend you to use flight comparators such as Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with the dates to get the best possible price. More info here

When to go: From December to April (depending on the year). The best time is usually between February and March. More info here

How many days: If you want to have more chances to see gray whales in Magdalena Bay, or if you want to enjoy this wonder several times, it is advisable to make several sighting attempts on different days.

Rules: Whale watching is happily regulated in Mexico. In the case of the gray whales of Magdalena Bay, NOM-131-SEMARNAT-2010 applies. At Randomtrip we always advocate animal welfare over human entertainment. More info here.

How to do the whale-watching: In a 4 to 6h boat tour with authorized operators. More info about the tours here.

Who to do the tour with: It is important to choose a responsible company. At Randomtrip we recommend Magdalena Bay Whales, with whom we did a “whale expedition” that included 3 tours of 4 to 6 hours and 2 nights at their glamping. More info here.

Cost: $116 per person for the 4 to 6 hour tour and $800 for the three-days, two-nights whale expedition with Magdalena Bay Whales. More info here.

Weather: The weather during gray whale watching season is usually cool/cold at night and in the early morning, and sunny/hot during the day.

What to bring: Sun protection (sunscreen, sunglasses, cap/cap…), a windbreaker for the cold at dawn and on the fast boat rides, cameras (smartphone, GoPro, professional camera…), water (preferably in a refillable bottle). More info here.

Where to stay: Ideally you should stay at Puerto San Carlos or, better yet, on Magdalena Island itself (as we did in Randomtrip, in a “whale expedition”). You can arrive from La Paz on the same day, but it is 3h30 one way and 3h30 return, so we do not recommend it. More info here.

Language: Most tourists tend to be from the USA, so it is common for both Spanish and English to be spoken, although most captains only speak Spanish.

Currency: MXN ($) Mexican Peso (1$ equals 20$ MXN approx.). Check the updated exchange rate here. Since most tourists are from the United States, prices are usually in dollars.

Where is Magdalena Bay?

Magdalena Bay (or Mag Bay) is located in the south-west of Baja California Sur, Mexico, surrounded by two islands: Magdalena Island and Santa Margarita Island. The most common access point to the bay is Puerto San Carlos, which is 5h30 away by car from Cabo San Lucas/San José del Cabo, 3h30 from La Paz, 2h30 from Loreto, 50 minutes from Ciudad Constitución and 1h10 from Ciudad Insurgentes.

Here you can take a closer look at Magdalena Bay, in relation to other important tourist spots such as La Paz or Cabo San Lucas:

How to get to Magdalena Bay

The airports in Baja California Sur (Mexico) are the following:

• Loreto Airport, 2h30 from Puerto San Carlos
• La Paz Airport, 3h from Puerto San Carlos
• Los Cabos Airport, 5h30 from Puerto San Carlos

Depending on your goal when visiting Baja California Sur (if you are visiting several places or if you are coming exclusively to visit Magdalena Bay and the gray whales) we recommend you to choose the most suitable airport for you, use flight comparators such as Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with the dates to get the best possible price.

Once in Baja California Sur, the easiest way to get around is by car (owned or rented), so you can have the freedom to move around at your own pace and avoid wasting a lot of time getting around. In our case we rented a car at the Los Cabos airport, where we landed, for our one month trip in Baja California Sur, but you can also rent a car in La Paz, Loreto, etc.

The other options are private transportation (Magdalena Bay Whales, with whom we did the gray whale watching tours, offers this service), or public transportation, although the times are longer and the combinations worse. In this case, you would have to arrive first to Ciudad Constitución (Autobuses Águila connects the main cities of the peninsula between Los Cabos and Tijuana), and from there look for transportation to Puerto San Carlos (we don’t know the connections between Ciudad Constitución and Puerto San Carlos, but surely there is a bus service or at least a cab).

Best time to see gray whales in Magdalena Bay

The best time to see gray whales is usually in February and March, although it is possible to see gray whales from December to April, depending on the year (remember that we are talking about wild animals in their habitat). Here we explain why.

Gray whale season in Magdalena Bay

The “official” season runs from December to April, but it is important to understand that we are talking about a free-ranging migratory species. Gray whales start arriving in Magdalena Bay usually at the end of December and start leaving back to the cold Arctic waters at the end of March.

During all this time it is possible to see the gray whales, although the “peak” (when there are more whales) is usually between February and March.

This can vary from year to year, so there is no way to predict it exactly, but it is best to avoid the extremes of the season (December and April) to have a better chance of seeing them.

In our case, with the main goal of seeing gray whales, we visited Baja California Sur from February 7 to March 7 and managed to see whales at all the points in Baja California Sur where we went whale watching.

Best time of day to see gray whales in Magdalena Bay

Based on data and statistics, there is no best or worst time of day for gray whale watching in Magdalena Bay: it is possible to see them at any time of the day.

Whether we can see them, whether they are closer or farther away, more curious or less curious, whether they come closer or not, depends on a multitude of factors: the whales themselves, luck, the state of the sea, the weather, etc.

During gray whale watching tours, what stands out the most is when the gray whales come very close to the boats, more than any other type of whale, so luck in this case is not measured by how many whales you see, but by having the opportunity to see one or some of them come close to your boat. We would even say that it is better to see only one gray whale near the boat than 10 or 20 in the distance! Although just seeing them, near or far, is a thrill and a privilege.

If you get seasick on the boat,ideally you should have a pill before, and choose the tours that leave earlier, since the sea is usually calmer, although as everything it depends on the day.

RandomTip: An important thing to keep in mind before you go whale watching is to adjust your expectations! Remember that just the fact of being able to see the whales is a gift of nature (it is the wonder of seeing wild animals in their habitat, the feeling that you won the lottery) and it is always the whales that choose whether to get closer to the boat or not (and never the other way around).

How many gray whales are there in Magdalena Bay?

The number of gray whales in Magdalena Bay varies by week and year.

In 2024, this is the number of whales according to the official census, published here:

Date	Whales (total)	Whales with calves	Whales alone
20/01/2024	1	0	1
04/02/2024	10	0	10
23/02/2024	35	0	35
09/03/2024	5	0	5
Date	Whales (total)	Whales with calves	Whales alone

In the previous season (2022-2023) the maximum number of whales was 101 whales (source).

Information and curiosities about gray whales

Here are some facts about gray whales:

• Gray whales are a migratory species, with one of the longest known migratory routes among all mammals, traveling between 16,000 and 22,000 kilometers in total.
• They were hunted almost to extinction in the same lagoons of Mexico where today we can see them very closely. Fortunately, whaling was banned in the 80’s, and since then the gray whale population has been growing and is not in danger of extinction.
• They are called gray whales precisely because of their characteristic gray color. In addition, especially adult whales, usually carry “complements” or the marks left by these complements. These complements are called “barnacles” and are crustaceans (you may have seen them in the shells of mussels) that cling to the whales when they go down to the bottom of the sea to feed.

• Adult gray whales measure between 11 and 15 meters, and can weigh up to 45 tons. Newborn gray whale calves measure between 4.6 and 4.9 meters, and weigh between 680 and 920 kg.
• Gray whales come to the lagoons of Baja California Sur from December to April to mate, give birth and teach their calves. Their gestation process lasts one year, and they can have a calf every 2 years.
• Gray whales are believed to live approximately 40 years.
• Gray whales feed mainly on krill (a type of crustacean) and other small organisms such as small fish and plankton. To feed, they go to the sandy bottoms where they crawl sideways and obtain food by filtering the sand thanks to their baleen. Yes, gray whales have baleen and not teeth.
• In the past, gray whales were known as “devil fish” because during the time when they were hunted, the mothers defended themselves very strongly and attacked the boats to protect their calves. Today, however, they are not dangerous and come very close to boats.
• Killer whales are the largest predator of gray whales. The other threats to gray whales are people (illegal hunting, collisions with boats, fishing nets, noise pollution, climate change…), and to a lesser extent, polar bears and sharks.

If you want to learn more about gray whales, as well as other whales, sea turtles, vaquita, etc., don’t miss the Whale Museum in La Paz.

Gray whale watching rules

Mexico is a country that, fortunately, has a strong regulation and protection of whales, so whale watching activities must follow certain rules and the boats must have the corresponding official permit.

In the case of gray whale watching in Magdalena Bay, the rule that applies is NOM-131-SEMARNAT-2010 (if you are curious, you can read it here). Below is a summary of the rules

• The vessel/captain must have official authorization and carry the flag (distinctive) visible on the vessel.
• In the presence of whales, the maximum speed is 5 knots (9km/h), decreasing to 2 knots (4km/h) when entering the observation zone. The boat should always go at a slower speed than the slowest whale and avoid accelerating or decelerating abruptly.
• Maximum 4 boats with each whale or group of whales. If other boats wish to observe the same whale or group of whales, they must wait at a distance of 240 meters.
• The maximum distance the vessel can approach the whale is 60 meters.
• The approach to the whale or group of whales must be made diagonally, from the rear side, and the vessel must navigate parallel to the whale or group.
• If the whale or group of whales stop, the vessel must remain with the engine running and in neutral position. It is at this time that the gray whales may decide, voluntarily, to approach the vessel.
• Maximum 30 minutes with the whale or group of whales, although if what is explained in the previous point happens (with the boat stopped, the whale or group of whales approaching) the time limit is when the whale or group of whales decide to leave.

• If the whale or group of whales exhibits evasive behavior, the vessel(s) should immediately move away.
• During whale watching it is forbidden to:
  • Harass (“Act that interferes with the natural behavior of whales, as well as forcing physical contact with them”) or harm whales.
  • Dispersing whales
  • Interfering between mother and calf, or approaching whales that are mating or calving
  • Engage in other activities such as fishing, diving, swimming… (i.e. it is strictly forbidden to jump into the water in the presence of whales).
  • Use other boats (jet skis, kayaks, etc.).
  • Throwing waste into the sea
  • Catching or collecting wildlife, as well as bringing it in.
  • Bringing pets on board (except for guide dogs).
  • Feeding whales
  • Towing objects or dragging ropes, nets, hooks, etc.

Can gray whales be touched or kissed?

This is a rather controversial topic: if you have searched for some information about gray whale watching in Magdalena Bay (Baja California Sur, Mexico) or in other areas of Baja California Sur, you have probably already seen images or videos (either on social networks or on the websites of service providers) in which people are seen touching, petting or even kissing a gray whale.

If you read the norm that regulates the activity and that we summarized in the previous point (NOM-131-SEMARNAT-2010) you will see that there is no explicit reference to touching gray whales, and therefore, probably unintentionally, it is not prohibited by law to touch gray whales. Obviously, just because it is not prohibited does not mean that it should be done, and in our opinion, this type of interaction should not be allowed, at least not the way it is currently done.

After talking and asking questions during our Baja trip to different people with knowledge on the subject (mostly biologists that we have met during our month in Baja California Sur), they all agreed that physical contact with the gray whale should not be allowed and that it should be prohibited, because besides being ethically questionable, it can also be dangerous, for the following reasons:

• Whales, like other species, have maternal instincts. Gray whales come to Magdalena Bay to mate and give birth, so it is common for them to be with their calves. Any approach, well-intentioned or not, can be perceived as a threat and generate violent behavior by the mother.
• Touching them can expose the person to diseases (some of those associated with marine mammals are brucellosis, tuberculosis and leptospirosis), and vice versa.
• Whales have lice, which we saw at the Whale Museum in La Paz, that can cause diseases to people, as there have already been cases.

Although we could affirm that the contact is somehow initiated by the whale, and that this behavior of the gray whale in these Mexican lagoons is unique in the world, the impact that this interaction may be having on them is unknown.

The companies and individuals involved in this activity defend that there is no evidence that touching them is harmful to them, but the rules do state the following:

Principle 15 of the Declaración de Río sobre Medio Ambiente y Desarrollo states: “In order to protect the environment, the precautionary approach shall be widely applied by States according to their capabilities. Where there are threats of serious or irreversible damage, lack of full scientific certainty shall not be used as a reason for postponing cost-effective measures to prevent environmental degradation“.

On the other hand, even if there was certainty that touching them does not have a negative impact on the gray whales, the popularity that the activity is reaching means that, based on our experience, more than 95% of the people who come to do the activity have the goal of touching or even kissing a whale. During the different 6 tours we did (in Magdalena Bay, Almejas Bay, San Ignacio Lagoon and Ojo de Liebre Lagoon) we were able to observe behaviors caused by the desire to touch the whale that were detrimental to the whale:

• On one of the tours, a person from another boat fell into the sea while trying to touch a whale, which clearly was not close enough to the boat and did not seem to be interested in being touched. The person was not wearing a life jacket.
• On another tour, a person who came on our boat wanted to kiss a whale. When she had the opportunity (which lasted a few seconds) the person ran to where the whale was, jumped over me, and pounced on the whale to kiss it, dropping her cap on top of the whale, which she quickly picked up roughly. The whale left immediately afterwards.
• On another tour, the whales that day were not particularly friendly: we were seeing many but they were not approaching the boat. One of the people on our boat was also expressing his goal of touching one. As soon as a whale came close enough to the boat, he ran over to touch it and take a picture, which caused the whale to change its behavior and leave.

These 3 cases, in our opinion, do qualify as harassment, and are therefore illegal under the rules established in NOM-131-SEMARNAT-2010. The problem with allowing to touch the whales without educating tourists about it and without surveillance, is that as tourism increases in the area, the cases that we know are harmful will also increase, generating a tourism that is neither sustainable nor respectful of these majestic animals. As tourism increases, if the number of “friendly whales” does not increase, the pressure on captains and on the whales increases, due to the intention and goal of the people who come here to touch one.

We understand that for many people it is a dream to be able to touch a whale, but if you are reading this, we urge you to reconsider: just seeing them up close is incredible enough and you will be contributing to a more responsible and sustainable activity.

Are gray whale watching rules adhered to in Magdalena Bay?

In our experience, most of the rules are followed, and it is clear that the people involved (most are fishing captains) have respect for the animals and good intentions. Unfortunately, not always and not everyone complies with the rules, there is no constant surveillance of the rules in Magdalena Bay (we were told that there is surveillance on random days without warning), and due to the culture of tipping and the anxiety of people to touch/kiss the whales, the captains are pressured to perform actions that they should not, that they do not manage to stop for fear of losing money and/or lack of communication skills (most tourists are English speaking, and most captains do not speak English).

In our case, in one of the 6 gray whale watching tours we did in Baja California Sur (we did tours in Magdalena Bay, Almejas Bay, San Ignacio Lagoon and Ojo de Liebre Lagoon), at a particular place where a whale was located there were at one point 11 boats (exceeding the limit of 4). When we initially approached the whale our captain told us that we could not approach because there were already several boats and we had to wait our turn, but other boats arrived that did not respect the rule and that group of 11 boats was formed.

That is why it is important to hire tours with authorized operators, with good reputation and that you can verify that they comply with the rules. It is also very important that you read the rules, and give a warning and/or report to the authorities in case of non-compliance, and even share them with other people on the same boat, who may not know what the rules are.

In our opinion, it should be mandatory to have a guide on board (a biologist) to ensure that the rules are followed, explain to the people who are doing the tour what they see, and call attention in case someone does something wrong or tries to pressure the captain.

How is the gray whale watching tour in Magdalena Bay?

Since these are wild animals in their habitat, there is no way to know for sure if you will see the whales or not, in which area they are or anything like that, and that is why it is important to adjust your expectations, although during the 3 tours we did with Magdalena Bay Whales we saw lots of gray whales.

In the Magdalena Bay tours, the boats go out to the areas where whale watching is allowed, and they sail in search of a sign of a whale (usually a blowing), an event that can take minutes or hours (you have to be patient). There is also communication between captains to warn when they see some.

Once a whale or group of whales is detected, the boat sails towards them up to the maximum distance allowed. Once close, if the whale is moving, the boat can accompany it in parallel from a maximum distance allowed, and if it stops or approaches the boat it must stop and leave the engine in neutral position.

It is at this moment when the magic can happen: the gray whale or group of whales approaching the boat. It is important to understand that this does not happen every day, nor in every tour. In Randomtrip we did 3 tours in Magdalena Bay, and in the first one the gray whales hardly came close, or if they did they left quickly. On the other 2 we did have better luck and several magical encounters of this type. So adjust your expectations!

RandomTip: Always adjust your expectations but according to the captains we did the tours with the year we went, if you go between January 15 and March 15, you are guaranteed to see them (you don’t know how far away you will see them because the approaching depends on them). As always, this was our experience and the dates may even vary from year to year (and even more so with the acceleration of climate change).

If you are lucky enough to have the gray whale come close to the boat and stay, you will be able to enjoy seeing it up close. Normally the gray whales pass under the boat, “rub” or scratch against the boat (you will notice how they move it! some gray whales are bigger than the boats), come out to breathe very close to the boat, stick their heads out, etc. At Randomtrip we had the opportunity to see them up close (especially in 2 of the 3 tours), as you can see in the pictures, and even record them underwater with our GoPro from the boat. It is a spectacle of nature and a privilege to be able to attend this kind of encounters.

How long that encounter lasts and what happens during it will depend exclusively on the whales. It is said that if you splash your hands in the water when they are close and/or if you talk to them, it is possible to encourage them to come closer, although there is no scientific evidence in this regard. During this type of encounter, the boat should remain with the engine on and in neutral position, without moving, and can stay there until the gray whale or group of gray whales decides to move away.

Keep in mind that even if you are lucky enough to have one of these magical encounters happen, it may only last a few minutes, so you will most likely spend the 4 to 6 hours of the tour seeing gray whales further away, so once again, adjust your expectations!

Gray whale behaviors to observe

These are the most common behaviors of gray whales on the surface that you will see during the tour:

• Blowing: when they come out to breathe, they emit a blowing that can reach several meters high and be seen from far away.
• Breaching: they take a large part of their body out of the water vertically and fall on their back, generating a large splash. This is not as common in gray whales, and if they do it is usually farther away from the boats. At Randomtrip, we were able to see a couple of them jumping in Magdalena Bay, but very far away.
• Spyhopping: they only stick their heads vertically out of the water, observing their surroundings. We have seen this behavior on almost every tour and it is one of our favorites, we love it when they do it!
• Slapping: they hit the water with their fin or tail, generating a splash.
• Interaction with the boat: rubbing against the bottom of the boat or its sides, getting close, sticking their heads out nearby… this is the behavior that everyone who goes on the tour wants to see and we had the privilege of seeing it several times.
• Fluking: usually indicates that the gray whale is going for a deep dive, so if we see the tail it means that the whale is leaving and it will take a few minutes to resurface.

How long does the gray whale watching tour last?

It depends on the tour, the company and the price. The Magdalena Bay Whales tours, with whom we did 3 trips to see gray whales, last between 4 and 6 hours, leaving from Magdalena Island camp or Puerto San Carlos very early in the morning (7:00 to 7:30am).

How many people go on the boat?

It depends on the tour, the company and the price: there will always be a captain and the number of tourists that corresponds to the maximum number of places that the boat has. Of course, the ideal is that there are not many people per boat but, in our opinion, we do not believe that there should be private tours (which there are, although in Randomtrip we did not want to do it this way) because the more private tours, the more boats in the water…

In the tours we did with Magdalena Bay Whales the pangas (the traditional boat used for the activity) had capacity for 6 people and the captain, and in all of them we were between 5 and 6 people, so it was ideal, since all the people had the opportunity to enjoy the show comfortably.

How much does the gray whale watching tours cost?

The price depends on the company you go with, the duration, the type of boat used, the number of people ….. In the case of Magdalena Bay Whales, the daily shared tours cost $116 per person (taxes included). You also have the option of taking a private tour for $464 (taxes included).

On the other hand, Magdalena Bay Whales offers the option of doing a “whale expedition”, which is what we did at Randomtrip and we highly recommend if you have the time and money available to do it. In the whale expedition you will be immersed in a unique experience, in a special environment (a bay full of whales) and with several whale watching tours (and, therefore, you multiply the probability of seeing a gray whale up close). The “whale expedition” of 3 days and 2 nights, with 3 shared tours (and 2 nights in the glamping and all meals included) is priced at $800 per person (taxes included). In this section we detail our experience doing the “whale expedition” and we detail what the camp is like and what it includes.

If you like this option of staying overnight at the glamping on Magdalena Island and doing morning gray whale watching tours, shared or private, you can contact the company directly so they can set up a plan based on the number of days and tours you want to do. We met people who were doing the “whale expedition” for more or less days. In our case, as we did a whale expedition of 3 days and 2 nights, with 3 shared tours, the first night we slept in Puerto San Carlos to be ready early in the morning for the first tour, and we slept the following two nights in the glamping. Ideally you will sleep at the Vila Isabela Hotel, which is owned by the same company as Magdalena Bay Whales and the tours depart from there.

Since it is an activity with wild animals in their habitat where the main goal is that they are respected and that the activity is done under the current regulations, we recommend that you do not look for the cheapest operator, and that you do some research on who you are going to do it with and their position regarding the welfare of these animals.

Recommended company for responsible gray whale watching

Based on what we have indicated, fortunately the activity is regulated and you can only do the tour with authorized boats. Given that even so there are boats that do not comply with the rules, the most important thing is that you choose well with whom you are going to do the tour, and that you express when the tour starts your intentions to make a responsible sighting and following the rules.

In our case we did it with Magdalena Bay Whales and we can definitely recommend them because during the 3 tours we did, the captains respected the rules. It is a family company, which has been doing the activity in these waters for more than 40 years and whose goal is to respect and help in the conservation of the gray whale (as well as the rest of the fauna present in the area).

They also offer the possibility of doing a“whale expedition” and sleeping in a glamping camp on Magdalena Island, in the middle of nature.

Our gray whale watching experience with Magdalena Bay Whales and the “Whale Expedition”.

The experience of doing the whale expedition with Magdalena Bay Whales was one of the most incredible experiences of our life and we highly recommend it.

The camp (the glamping)

At Magdalena Bay Camp you will sleep to the sound of the waves and wake up to the blowing of whales as they will be the first thing you see after a delicious breakfast.

The glamping has large, comfortable tents for two people (and with two queen beds inside!) which they call “beach cottages” (there are others that are a little higher on a platform on the hillside of the mountain) and with chairs and hammock in front of your “cottage” so you can relax and do your own private whale watching without leaving the camp (remember that you are in the middle of Magdalena Bay) although you will be very lucky if you see any whales from here as they are usually in another area of the bay (in Randomtrip we did not see any whales in the camp itself but there were people who did, and even humpback whales!).

Each beach hut has its own dry toilet and a 10 liter solar shower that stays in the sun so that the water warms up while you are whale watching in the morning (we recommend taking a shower in the afternoon as it gets cooler in the morning and evening).

The camp has a main palapa where meals are served (breakfast, lunch and dinner). All meals are included in the price of the expedition (except alcoholic beverages) and the menu is varied. But the best thing is the team that works there: they are amazing!

Breakfast options range from fruit, oatmeal and eggs to more local options such as chilaquiles. Lunch and dinner options range from fish and seafood to tacos and quesadillas. There are also vegan and vegetarian options but you have to let them know at the time of booking the expedition.

In our case, the three days we stayed, breakfast and lunch were a la carte and dinner buffet.

It is also next to this main palapa that you will find the only “normal” toilet and sink of the camp (where we brushed our teeth), and in the palapa you will also find enough plugs to charge your devices during breakfast, lunch and dinner times. Note! There is no internet signal in the camp but there is Wifi only in the palapa although its speed is limited. There is mobile coverage for calls. The whole camp is designed to be as sustainable as possible and to save resources on the island.

Whale watching tours

Normally the whale watching tours start early in the morning, around 7:00 am, and you return at lunch time, around 12:30 pm. The private tours have more flexibility as they agree with the captain about the departure time, and can leave earlier or later.

Once again, here we recommend not only adjusting your expectations but also increasing your patience. In our three tours in Magdalena Bay, 80% of the time we saw the whales far away. What we post on social media and here are just the most exciting bits and pieces of several hours so most of the time is spent in contemplation and waiting. You never know what nature will give you that day but remember that just being there is a privilege.

Out of our three day tours, the second day was our favorite. The first and third days were equally exciting – after all, you’re on a boat surrounded by whales, but the whales didn’t come that close. That’s nature and that’s whales: each one with its own personality and just seeing them is a gift. If they want to get closer, that’s up to them. Never force their behavior.

After lunch and until the next morning when we had another whale watching tour, we had free time to explore the surroundings of the camp or just relax. We tell you all about what to do in Magdalena Island in the next section of the guide.

Do one or more sightseeing tours without camping.

If you don’t want to do the expedition, because you don’t want to invest more than a day doing gray whale watching and/or because you prefer more comfort and sleep in a hotel with a hot shower, you can also do the tour with Magdalena Bay Whales from Puerto San Carlos, stayung in San Carlos. Ideally, you will sleep at the Hotel Isabela which is owned by the same company as Magdalena Bay Whales and the tours depart from there.

Whether you do the whale expedition or not, the Isabela Hotel has secure parking where you can leave your car while you do the tour.

In fact, in our case, as we did a “whale expedition” of 3 days and 2 nights, with 3 shared tours, the first night we stayed in Puerto San Carlos to be ready early in the morning for the first tour and the following two nights in the glamping.

Get inspired by the stories of our Whale Expedition in Magdalena Bay.

You can see the featured Instagram stories about our visit to Magdalena Bay here.

You can also watch a reel about our experience with the gray whales in Magdalena Bay here:

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by RandomTrip Travel Blog (@randomtrip_blog).

Things to see and do in Isla Magdalena and Puerto San Carlos

In Puerto San Carlos, there is not much else to do besides seeing the gray whales, unless you take other fishing tours or tours to other areas of the bay.

On Magdalena Island, if you stay overnight at the Magdalena Bay Whales camp, you have some plans to occupy your evenings (remember that there is no internet signal and the Wifi speed at the main palapa is limited):

• Trail to the Pacific: the campsite faces the lagoon, so you can follow a trail across the island to get to the other side, where you will meet the Pacific Ocean. It takes about 20-30 minutes to get to the other side (same to get back), and is an excellent spot to watch the sunset, although if you do so bring lighting for the return trip (we encountered a tarantula during our hike there). On the Randomtripper Scale of Difficulty we give it an easy.

• Visit the town of Puerto Magdalena, a fishing village. You can have a drink (or a meal) at a great restaurant, the Miramar, which is a 15 minute walk from the glamping and where you can learn more about the history of how whale watching began through photos from that time and from the owner himself, Jose (affectionately known as “Chejo”) who is part of the group of people who started the whale watching activity in Baja California Sur by opening the restaurant for the clients who came to do whale watching tours.

• Kayaking and/or SUP: the camp has several kayaks included in your stay that you can use in the bay.
• Walking to the mangroves and dunes
• Fishing

Or you can just relax and enjoy being in the middle of nature, read, etc.

RandomTip: If you do not do the expedition and only daily tour(s) from Puerto San Carlos, we recommend talking to the captain at the end of the tours to stop for lunch at the Miramar restaurant in Puerto Magdalena instead of eating in San Carlos on the day of the sighting tour.

Where to stay in Magdalena Bay

The two main options for lodging in Magdalena Bay are Puerto San Carlos and Magdalena Island.

Where to stay in Magdalena Island

If, like us at Randomtrip, you choose to do the whale expedition, you can stay overnight on Magdalena Island, at the Magdalena Bay Whales camp, sleeping “among the gray whales”.

The camp has several tents (“beach huts”) that are very complete, spacious and comfortable: they have 2 beds inside and enough bedding to keep you warm, a dry bathroom outside and a solar shower (a 10-liter water sachet that is somewhat warmed by the sun).

It also has a central palapa where you have regular restrooms, and where meals are served. In the palapa you can also charge your electronic devices during breakfast, lunch and dinner. Read more about our experience in this section of the guide.

Where to stay in Puerto San Carlos

If you don’t want to do the expedition, because you don’t want to invest more than one day in gray whale watching and/or because you prefer more comfort and sleep in a hotel with a hot shower, you can also do the tour with Magdalena Bay Whales from Puerto San Carlos, staying in San Carlos.

• Hotel Isabela (from 50€ per night): it is the hotel of Magdalena Bay Whales, ideal if you are going to do the tours with them since the tours usually leave early and you avoid having to move at those hours. When we went, it was full, so we had to look for another option.

Other options in Puerto San Carlos:

• Posada San Carlos (from 40€ per night): simple and comfortable rooms
• Hotel Vista Mag-Bay (from 44€ per night): comfortable rooms, some with views of the bay, being one of the most “modern” options in Puerto San Carlos.

• KayackHouse (from 49€ per night): one bedroom and kitchen apartment
• Hotel Prados (from 52€ per night) : as Hotel Isabela was full (as well as many other accommodations), we stayed at Hotel Prados and loved it. Very comfortable room and impeccable service. It took less than 10 minutes by car to the Hotel Isabela where we left the car parked and the tour started.

• Puerto San Carlos Bay House & Tours (from 101€ per night): one-bedroom house with bay views

• Mag Bay Paradise (from 137€ per night): amazing rooms with bay views and breakfast buffet

Check the prices and the information on what is included before paying, as in Mexico taxes usually have to be added to the initial price you see on the platform.

RandomTip: If you stay in San Carlos, we recommend you to have dinner at Mariscos El Tiburón. We went there for dinner (we tried the famous chocolata clams) and liked it very much, good quality and good prices. We were also recommended La Choya and Tortas Lore although we didn’t get to try them.

Recommendations for visiting Magdalena Bay and do gray whale watching as a responsible tourist

At Randomtrip we advocate animal welfare over human entertainment so here are our recommendations for this activity, based on our experience:

• Adjust your expectations: If you go during the season we recommend at Randomtrip, you will probably see whales, but there is no guarantee how far away you will see them as it depends 100% on them.
• Increase your dose of patience: In our three tours in Magdalena Bay, 80% of the time we saw the whales far away (in social networks we show only the most exciting bits) so most of the time is spent in contemplation and waiting. You never know what nature is going to give you that day but remember that just being there is a privilege.
• Never ask the captain to get any closer. The captains know the rules by heart, they know the boat and the bay like the back of their hand, the changes in the tides and the wind and they have been observing the behavior of the whales for years so listen to them and do not push them to get closer. If the whale wants to approach your boat, it will and in fact it does many times in this unique place in the world. Unfortunately, even though there are regulations to abide by, sometimes captains, in order to please clients, give in to forcing some rules because of client pressure. Don’t do it and remember to always put the welfare of the animal before your entertainment.
• Do not touch or kiss the whale. No matter how many photos and videos you see on social media touching (or even kissing) the whale, based on everything we have discussed in this guide, it should not be allowed and we ask you to reconsider.
• Be kind to other people: During our tours we were fortunate to share the experience with people who lived this incredible activity from emotion and respect and, unfortunately, with others whose main (and perhaps only?) priority was a photo touching and even kissing a whale. With the aim of getting the coveted photo, everything in their way was an obstacle, so they were constantly moving from their place, stepping on other people’s toes and we even received nudges of “I’m coming!”, moving the boat and even compromising in some cases the safety of the entire boat. Please, don’t be this person.
• Be responsible with waste and resource management: Remember the unique and special environment you are in, don’t throw anything into the sea and bring a reusable water bottle to avoid buying single-use plastic. If you do the “whale expedition”, do not ask for more water than the one provided at the camp for the shower, and you can refill your reusable water bottle at the palapa. If you don’t want to camp, stay in a lodge in Puerto San Carlos.

Checklist: what to bring for gray whale watching tour in Magdalena Bay

Here is the list of products that we believe you should bring for this adventure with gray whales:

• A  reusable water bottle like one of these to carry water with you all the time and void single-use plastic.
• Water proof dry bag like this one, very useful to keep your photographic equipment, cell phone and wallet safe from getting wet on the boat (whales sometimes blow near the boat or even hit the water with their fin or tail near the boat, and water can reach the boat).
• A neck gaiter like this one to protect yourself from wind and cold
• Sun screen: the sun is strong in Baja California Sur so it is a must to take care of your skin. Always look for a Coral Friendly Sunscreen, i.e. one that protects your skin without harming marine ecosystems by avoiding ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are harmful to corals. Nor that it has been tested on animals.
• A hat or a cap (like this one) and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun
• Windbreaker waterproof jacket: like this one. On the boat, depending on the conditions, it can be a bit chilly, so the ideal is to wear a windbreaker to protect you from the cold, the sun, and the water if it splashes.
• A phone lanyard: due to the wind and sometimes the jumps of the boat, it is advisable to have some protection for your smartphone so that you do not drop it (either inside the boat or at sea).
• A floating sunglass strap: as with the smartphone, it is advisable to have something similar for the glasses (we witnessed a couple of cases of people who had their sunglasses “blown” into the water and could not recover them, plus it is plastic that pollutes the sea).
• A good camera to register your adventures. At Randomtrip we carry a Sony ZV-E10 and a Gopro Hero12 Black (for underwater pictures)
• A Power bank: taking so many pictures will drain your batteries, so it’s always a good idea to carry a good powerbank. At Randomtrip we travel with these 2 (Anker 20000 mAh and  Anker 10000 mAh), which allow us to charge both our phones and our cameras.
• First aid kit: In our first-aid kit there is always a medicine against seasickness (such as biodramine for seasickness on boats), antibiotics, anti-diarrhea medication (and a probiotic to recover more quickly), antihistamines, painkillers and antipyretics and, of course, travel insurance. If you hire your travel insurance with IATI using this link you will get a 5% discount

RandomTip: If you do the “whale expedition”, we recommend you to bring warm clothes because it gets quite cold in the camp at night. At Randomtrip we used a thermal T-shirt and thermal leggings to sleep (in mid-February) and even a down jacket first thing in the morning on the boat. We also recommend comfortable closed shoes for walking. Bring your binoculars, if you have them, for the tours and for bird watching at the camp. And insect repellent.

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If after reading our experience you are left with even more desire to see these majestic animals up close, we tell you in all sincerity: the photos do not do justice to what we experienced. We were thrilled on every tour and are already planning to return. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments!

Disclaimer: Magdalena Bay Whales allowed us to experience this 3-day, 2-night adventure in exchange for reporting our experience here on the blog, but all opinions and information expressed in this post are our own.