Graciosa island (Azores): a guide to visit the island [with map] on your own (things to do, where to eat and sleep…)

Graciosa, in the Azores (not to be confused with La Graciosa in the Canary Islands), small but valuable, concentrates such a natural heritage that it won, in 2007, the classification of Biosphere Reserve by Unesco. One of the jewels that contributed to this was due to having the largest volcanic dome in Europe, the “Furna do Enxofre“.

Between dips in the incredible natural pools it boasts, tasting its typical “queijadas” (a sweet that, although the name indicates it, does not have cheese – queijo in portuguese), visiting the characteristic mills (and even sleeping in one) or getting to know its dwarf donkeys, a native breed, will make you feel that a weekend is not enough if you want to explore it calmly.

In this guide we try to reflect all that Graciosa has to offer with practical proposals, itineraries of 1, 2 or 3 days, where to stay and even where to eat so that your trip around the island is as incredible as ours has been.

Basic (and curious) facts for traveling to Graciosa

Graciosa is, with its 12.5 km by 7.5 km, the second smallest of the 9 islands of the Azores (the smallest being the island of Corvo). Located to the north in the central group, Graciosa is the flattest island (the least mountainous, with a maximum altitude of 405 meters) of the archipelago (in this it is similar to Santa Maria). Despite being listed as a World Biosphere Reserve since 2007, it is still one of the least visited islands of the Azores, partly because it is one of the most difficult to reach, but those who get there do not regret it. It is already 100% powered by renewable energies (wind farm and some solar). It is also known as the literary island although there is only one bookstore in its entire territory. On the other hand, there are 5 soccer fields. Yes, Graciosa is the Azorean island with more soccer fields per square meter.

Raul Brandão called it the “White Island” in his 1926 work “As ilhas desconhecida” (The Unknown islands), and the nickname comes, it seems, not so much for the white houses that contrast with the sea but for the abundance of trachyte, a volcanic rock of whitish tone and guilty that the nickname of “White” crept into several points of the island as, for example, the village of Pedras Brancas (white stones), which also gives the name to the first white wine of the archipelago certified by the Regional Wine Commission of the Azores. It is also known as the “island of donkeys“, which has to do with the island’s indigenous species of dwarf donkeys.

Currency: Euro

Language: Portuguese

Population: 4090 (in 2021)

Daily budget: From 80€/day per person (approx.) for a 3-day trip. More budget information here

When to visit: Spring-like all year round with temperatures between 15º and 25º (varies somewhat, but not much, during the summer and winter months), being summer the ideal time to enjoy its incredible natural pools. Besides, as it is not a very visited island, you won’t have to worry too much about escaping the high seasons of July and August. Find out more about when to go here.

Where to stay: At Randomtrip we stayed at Boa Nova Hostel, a modern hostel concept that we would not be surprised to find in a cosmopolitan city but which was a pleasant surprise on the white Azorean island, and there are several other options in Santa Cruz de Graciosa. If you are up for a different experience, you can sleep in one of the incredible mills of the island like Boina do Vento, overlooking the sea. More info about where to stay in Graciosa in this section of the guide.

How many days: Minimum 1 day, ideally 3 days.

How to get there: There are no direct flights to Graciosa from outside the archipelago but once you arrive in the archipelago you can fly to Graciosa with Sata, the Azorean airline. You can find flights to Ponta Delgada (São Miguel) or Lajes (Terceira) from Lisbon for 50€ round trip per person and then you will have to add the flight to Graciosa, which costs around 90€ round trip but it depends on how far in advance you book. We recommend you use flight comparators like Skyscanner and Kiwi and be flexible with dates. Alternatively, you can reach the island by boat from Terceira, São Jorge, Faial or Pico but only in summer and only 2 days a week. More info about this in the How to get to Graciosa section.

How to get around: The best option is to rent a car from one of the three car rental companies on the island. Find the best price for your rental car at DiscoverCars. More info on how to get around Graciosa here

Time zone: UTC +0. The time in the Azores archipelago (Portugal) is one hour behind mainland Portugal and two hours behind mainland Spain.

When to visit Graciosa

The best months to go to Graciosa are from May to October, and generally we would tell you to try to avoid July and August which are the months with more tourism, although this small island is not one of the most visited so you could even risk (yes, booking everything in advance as the supply of accommodation is not very large). June and September tend to be the best months, with good weather, still appetizing waters and less tourism in all the Azores.

In terms of climate, summer is undoubtedly the best time, with higher temperatures, less chance of rain and the possibility of enjoying more of its beaches and natural pools.

Weather in Graciosa, with temperatures and rainy days per month:

Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Water temperature (average)	Rainy days
January	13º	16º	16º	10
February	12º	16º	16º	9
March	13º	17º	16º	8
April	13º	17º	16º	7
May	15º	19º	17º	6
June	17º	21º	19º	4
July	19º	24º	21º	3
August	20º	25º	23º	4
September	19º	24º	22º	7
October	17º	21º	20º	9
November	15º	19º	18º	9
December	13º	17º	17º	11
Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Water temperature (average)	Rainy days

The carnival in Graciosa does not last 3 days but 3 months so if you want to see the island in party with its dances, group costumes and parades, come to the island in February (although really since Christmas ends, the carnival dances begin on the island).

How to get to Graciosa

There are no direct flights to Graciosa from outside the archipelago so once you arrive in the archipelago you will have to fly to Graciosa with SATA, the Azorean airline.

The cheapest flights are usually Ryanair flights from Lisbon/Porto to Ponta Delgada (São Miguel) or Lajes (Terceira) but to get the best price from your starting point you should be flexible with dates and use price comparators such as Skyscanner and Kiwi.com.

Once in the archipelago, you will have to fly to Graciosa from one of these airports with SATA, the Azorean airline.

Another option to get to Graciosa is to arrive by boat, but we warn that it is not easy due to the lack of frequency and service. There is a line that passes through Graciosa:

• From Terceira there is a connection but limited and only in summer, two days a week. The trip between Graciosa and Terceira takes 3:40h.
• From São Jorge, Pico or Faial, same route as above but in reverse, also only in summer, two days a week. It takes about 3:20 from São Jorge, 4:30 from Pico, and 5:30 from Faial.

Of course, you can have luck as we had in Randomtrip to enjoy dolphin watching included in the ticket, as we had a dolphin show accompanying us at the exit of the island, a real luxury.

You can check boat schedules and purchase tickets at https://www.atlanticoline.pt/ (although schedules and routes are usually much better explained here).

Here is a map with the 4 lines (blue, green, purple and white) that connect the 5 islands of the central group of the Azores:)

How many days to visit Graciosa

We recommend a minimum of one day although the ideal for Graciosa would be 3 full days and if you want to spend more time to relax and enjoy the natural pools, you will not regret it. For this reason we propose here different types of itineraries, 1, 2 or 3 days.

Things to see and do in Graciosa

Here we leave you a summary of all the things to see and do in Graciosa, and below you have a map and specific information of each place.

Things to see and do in Graciosa

• Incredible natural pools such as Poceirões and Carapacho
• Furna do Enxofre
• Viewpoints with breathtaking panoramic views as Ponte da Barca

Map of Graciosa

Here we leave you all the places of interest in Graciosa that we talk about in this guide on a Google Maps map that you can carry on your smartphone to consult at any time.

Here we also leave you a tourist map with the roads of Graciosa (click on the image to download it in larger size and resolution).

Praia Barro Vermelho and its natural pool

The Zona Balnear do Barro Vermelho is an area that is part of the Natural Park of Graciosa, and has a beach of volcanic pebbles, crystal clear waters and wooden platforms where you can lay your towel with free umbrellas. It also has a picnic area, showers, toilets, and a kiosk with beers for 1 € and coffee (capsule machine, not very sustainable).

It has the particularity that the beach next to it is of red sand, as curious as photogenic and that, in addition, natural pools of crystalline waters and excellent conditions for diving were formed in the volcanic rock.

Ponta da Barca and Ihéu da Baleia

One of the viewpoints with the most beautiful views of the island is the Miradouro Ponta da Barca located on top of the volcanic rocks with privileged views of the islet shaped like a whale, the Ilhéu da Baleia (Whale Islet).

Further on we find Ponta da Barca Lighthouse which, active since 1930, holds the title of the highest tower of the archipelago (23 meters). However, visiting it is not easy: it is only open on Wednesdays from 14:00h to 17:00h, so if you cannot fit your visit to the lighthouse in those three hours a week, you will not enjoy the views from the top, as in Randomtrip. But that’s ok, the views from below the lighthouse to the Ilhéu da Baleia are beautiful and so is the drive to get there, among green meadows.

Poceirões: our favorite natural pools

The natural pools of Poceirões were our favorite of the island and one of the best places to swim in our two-month trip through the Azores, as you can see in our particular RandomAzores Oscars award attribution.

They are located on the west coast of the island, in the silence of nature, and you descend to them through a wooden staircase built into the cliff. Then, the pools of calm and transparent water appear, asking us to cross them with a stroke or simply to use them in jacuzzi mode. On summer days, its low temperature is an advantage, since the heat increases when the sun seems to be absorbed by the dark stone of volcanic origin.

The only but is that the Poceirões Natural Pools do not have much space where you can lay your towel.

There is parking right there, a picnic area and even showers, although there is no lifeguard post. Nearby there is also a campsite and two of the windmills inspired by the Flanders region, so characteristic of the island, such as the Moinho de Vento do Manuel da Rita.

Graciosa maintains 28 mills inspired by the Flanders region, with red domes, which were once considered the “Granary of the Azores” and have become symbols of the island. Most of the mills no longer work (except for, for example, the Moinho das Fontes that was recovered to be able to visit it in operation) but some are open converted into tourist accommodation as the Boina do Vento (from 85 € / night). We tell you more about these mills in the guide section of the Praia area.

Porto Afonso

On the northwest coast of the white island, 38 kilometers from the neighboring island of São Jorge, white is not exactly the predominant color. The successive layers of eruptions endow the 20 to 30 meter slopes of Porto Afonso (formerly known as Afonso do Porto) with reddish, orange and brown colors that illustrate the geological history of this fishing port. It is also very curious to observe the caves created naturally by erosion that were enlarged by fishermen to shelter their small boats.

Associação de Criadores do Burro Anão da Ilha da Graciosa (Graciosa Island Donkey Breeders Association)

Franco Ceraolo, an Italian who dedicated a great part of his life to theater and cinema working with names such as Scorsese, Fellini or Bertolucci, came to Graciosa for the first time in 2006 and the following year he was already moving to the island. He inquired about the donkeys of Graciosa and realized that this native breed, although very important in the history of the island (formerly used for transport and to work the land), was not recognized and would soon disappear. So it was that he created the Associação de Amigos e Criadores do Burro Anão da Graciosa (“Association of Friends and Breeders of the Graciosa Dwarf Donkey”) in 2013. He started by making an inventory of existing donkeys on the island (at that time they numbered around 60) and some laboratory tests and, in 2015, the Graciosa donkey was finally recognized as a native breed. It was a victory because it is not only a genetic question but also a historical one: in 1930 the Graciosa donkey was a real engine in the economy; there was one donkey for every three inhabitants of the island, a ratio that does not exceed that of cows per inhabitant in São Jorge but comes close. If you want to meet these friendly inhabitants, known for being little more than a meter tall, curious, friendly and tender, you can come and visit them. Franco lets you in with a smile.

Caldeirinha

We approached this mini volcano caldera called Caldeirinha de Pero Botelho, also known as Algar dos Diabretes or simply Caldeirinha. It is a volcanic algar, 37 meters deep, first explored in 1964 by the speleological society “Os Montanheiros”, the same association that manages, opened the tunnel and built the access staircase to the impressive Algar do Carvão on Terceira Island.

The “Algares” are deep vertical holes of volcanic origin, very common in the Azores. They can be formed by the outflow or withdrawal of magma from the interior of the earth; by the contraction of lava when it cools; by the outflow of gases (hornitas); or by the collapse of superimposed lava tubes.

From its viewpoint, located at the top of the only volcanic cave on the island of Graciosa, you can see, to the northwest, the parish of Guadalupe and, in the distance, the parish of Santa Cruz da Graciosa with its cluster of white houses. To the southeast are the three volcanic massifs that make up the most mountainous area of the island: Serra das Fontes, Serra Dormida and Caldeira da Graciosa.

It is located next to the Parque Eólico da Serra Branca (once again, the nickname “Branca” – white – comes from the abundance of trachyte on the island, a whitish volcanic rock that has also found its way into other toponyms on the island), from where it is possible to contemplate the other neighboring islands of the central group of the Azores: Pico, Faial, São Jorge and Terceira.

Viewpoints between Ribeirinha and Carapacho

Between the towns of Ribeirinha and Carapacho there are three viewpoints where it is worth stopping to contemplate the views.

The first is the Miradouro da Ribeirinha, which offers a beautiful panoramic view of the coastal landscape of the island with the Atlantic Ocean in the background.

On the same road there are also two other recently inaugurated viewpoints: Miradouro das Urzeiras ( the Urzeiras, which give the viewpoint its name, are flowering shrubs that further embellish the landscape) and Miradouro da Eira. All three viewpoints can be reached by car and park right next to the viewpoint.

Baía da Folga and Estrelas do Mar

The culprit for bringing us to this bay was the Estrelas do Mar restaurant and its terrace facing the Atlantic. The old fishing port is still working and it is precisely what Fernando fishes together with the experience of Adelaide, his wife, that you will find in the menu of the day. We went to enjoy a dinner and a bonus of a sunset in this beautiful bay that delights lovers of fresh fish. If you want, come before and bring your swimsuit to take a dip in its bathing area.

Carapacho: hot springs and natural pools

The natural pools of Carapacho will probably be the favorite of the local people so you will probably always find more people around here. When you arrive, you will understand why: the basaltic rocks born from the solidification of lava in contact with the sea contrast with the white-painted stone structures built a posteriori between transparent and calm waters where you can refresh yourself. Next to it, free sunbeds and umbrellas galore, showers, toilets and even a bar open from May 1 to September 30.

For those who prefer warmer baths, in the same place there is a thermal spa (Termas do Carapacho) in operation since 1750, where water is highly mineralized and reaches about 40ºC. They are highly sought after for their therapeutic properties in the treatment of rheumatic and skin diseases. The spa is completely remodeled and has, in addition to the thermal pool, two jacuzzis, Vichy shower, Turkish bath and massages, among other treatments.

Next door, at Ponta do Carapacho, a former whaling lookout, we found a lighthouse which we did not climb but from which we had a privileged view of the islets Ilhéu de Baixo. For an impressive panoramic view and seabird watching we recommend you to go to Ponta da Restinga.

Furna do Enxofre

Inside Caldeira da Graciosa, located at the top of the volcano that gave rise to the island, is the largest volcanic dome in Europe and one of the most amazing places in the archipelago: Furna do Enxofre, something like Sulphur Cave in Portuguese.

After buying the entrance ticket at the modern glass building of the Caldeira da Graciosa Natural Monument Visitor Center, suspended among the lush vegetation, and checking on the carbon dioxide meter that we can go down (if it passes a certain level, it is not safe to go down into the cave), we continue along the path that leads to the stone tower.

You have to go down the 183 spiral stairs to reach a perfect vault that even makes us doubt if it was built by lava but yes, this lava cavern, the result of an eruption 12,000 years ago, is 194 meters long and 40 meters high. Inside, you can smell the sulfur, the humidity in the air increases and you can hear the bubbling sound of carbon dioxide released by the fumaroles scattered on the floor of the cave.

With a huge cold water lake in the background and the dome resembling rocky corals, the space offers an immersive experience, especially if we can enjoy it alone, as was our case.

As a curiosity, one of the pioneers in descending this cave was Prince Albert I of Monaco, who in 1879 used a rope ladder to descend into this unique cave in Vulcanoespeleology.

Opening hours of the Furna do Enxofre Visitor Center, being the last entrance 30 minutes before closing time:

• From 01/04 to 31/10 from Monday to Sunday (every day): 09:00h – 17:00h
• From 01/11 to 31/03 from Tuesday to Saturday and holidays: 09:00h – 17:00h. Closed on Mondays and Sundays, January 1st and December 25th.

Price: 5€ /adults; 2€ for children from 5 to 14 years old and over 65 years old; free admission for children under 6 years old and residents of the azores

Furna do Abel and Furna da Maria Encantada

In the Furna do Abel, one of the largest lava tubes of the island of more than 90 meters, an ancient altar is preserved where religious ceremonies have been held in the last century.

The Furna da Maria Encantada, a 60-meter lava tube created when the lava overflowed over the edge of the Caldeira’s crater, is one of the best viewpoints with a panoramic view of the Caldeira since there are lateral openings.

Walk around Caldeira and viewpoints

Bordering the Caldeira de Graciosa (approximately 270 meters deep) is the hiking route that we recommend if you only have time to do one route on the island (Volta à Caldeira PRC02GRA). It is a 10.8 km trail, circular, which will take you about 3 hours and is easy, without slopes. In the end we didn’t do it because we had very good weather when we went and we swarmed from natural pool to natural pool, we confess. In addition, the trail goes mostly by road and we had just done some impressive hikes in the islands of the Azores triangle, Pico, Faial and São Jorge and we were about to meet Terceira where we would do a few more but in this link you find all the info to do it.

The route starts at Furna do Enxofre and ends at the Mirador da Caldeira, passing through the 3 furnas (Enxofre, Abel and Maria Encantada).

At the top of the Caldeira, at 405 meters, you will get a 360º view of the island but getting there involves a 9.7km route that is somewhat “difficult” (more info about hiking in Graciosa in the section dedicated to hiking routes in the guide). To enjoy the views with less effort, we recommend you to go to this tower where you can contemplate the Caldeira and the Miradouro da Luz next to it.

Not to be missed are the views from the Mirador do Carapacho and the Miradouro da Praia (the latter even has a swing that delights instagram fans).

Praia: Islet, Mills and Queijadas

Whether you arrive to Graciosa by air or by sea to Vila da Praia, as in Randomtrip, you have surely noticed the islet that is located in front of this village and from which it got its name: Ilhéu da Praia (Islet of Praia).

It turns out that this islet is an ornithological paradise, that is, for birdwatching, because seabirds that go there to nest. In fact, it is said that if you try to approach the islet, they will bite your head off to protect their own and their territory. The islet is protected and it is not allowed to visit it.

On the other hand, in addition to the islet, you will surely have noticed a mill with a red dome as soon as you arrive. And the fact is that the island preserves 28 mills inspired by the region of Flanders, with red domes, which have already become symbols of the island. They are the reason why Graciosa was once considered the “Granary of the Azores”. Most of the mills are no longer in operation, except for, for example, the Moinho das Fontes, which was recovered to be visited in operation by appointment (we give you more details in the Museums section of the guide).

The windmills are so characteristic that it is even possible to sleep in some of them. If you want to live this experience we recommend the Boina do Vento (from 85€/night) or, 200 meters from Praia de São Mateus (a beautiful sandy beach with surveillance and free sun loungers), Moinho de Pedra with views to the islet.

It is also here, in Praia, where you can (and should) satisfy your sweet tooth and try the Queijadas da Praia da Graciosa. They are typical of the island, famous throughout the country, and although you can find them in several places, if you want them very fresh, the ideal is to go to where they are made. They are inspired by the traditional “covilhete de leite“, a specialty of Vila da Praia and are already one of the island’s calling cards. Although they are called “queijadas” (from“queijo“, cheese in Portuguese), they do not contain cheese but eggs, milk, flour, sugar, butter, salt and cinnamon.

In summer, 2,000 queijadas a day are produced and even exported to the United States! Remember that emigration in the Azores has always been very significant and the cultural connection with the USA and Canada goes back a long way. As early as the 18th century the Azorean population was heading to North America aboard American whaling ships that began to appear in the islands and it is estimated that there are currently 1.5 million Portuguese emigrants of Azorean origin in the USA, predominantly concentrated in states such as Massachusetts and Rhode Island, on the east coast, and California, on the Pacific coast.

Santa Cruz da Graciosa

Santa Cruz de Graciosa is where you will find more accommodation and more restaurants on the island which makes it an ideal base for exploration. It was here that we stayed at Randomtrip, at the Boa Nova Hostel (55€/double room), but there are more options in Santa Cruz, check out this link.

As soon as you reach the village you will understand why it is called the white island, or rather, because that is what Raul Brandão called it in his 1926 work The Unknown Islands. More than because of the agglomeration of white houses, it seems that the nickname comes from the abundance of trachyte on the island, a whitish volcanic rock that has also found its way to other parts of the island such as Pedras Brancas, Serra Branca or Barro Branco.

To contemplate the views of the island, one must climb the Pico da Ajuda, where there are three hermitages: Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda, Ermida de São João and Ermida de São Salvador. The first, Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda, built in the 16th century, is also known for being one of the best examples of fortified religious architecture of the archipelago and a place of pilgrimage during the Procession of Our Lady of Guadalupe that takes place every May 24, since 300 years ago, where a crowd climbs along the 2 km long inclined slope to thank the Virgin for having saved the island from a violent earthquake.

It is also here that you will find what will probably be one of the most original bullrings in the country, built inside a volcanic crater. As animal lovers and against bullfighting that we are at Randomtrip, we mention it only for its curious architectural element and for the environment in which it is located, hoping that the atrocities that continue to be celebrated there today will soon be banned.

To explore the historic center of Santa Cruz de Graciosa, go to Praça Fontes Pereira de Melo where you will find two water tanks built in the 20th century that served to collect and store rainwater, one for the use of the population and the other for livestock. On an island with such a shortage of water, the population had to improvise and design structures to collect and retain water at their homes and also in the fields for agriculture. In fact, another structure that also functioned as a reservoir is the Reservatório do Atalho (Atalho Reservoir) located at the exit of Santa Cruz. It was inaugurated in 1844 after a severe drought on the island (it was necessary to fetch barrels of water from Terceira) and had a capacity of 1,800 cubic meters of water from a rainwater source. It is currently open to the public and has even been used as a stage for classical music concerts.

Such was the lack of water on the island that one of its sayings is that in the past, you could more easily invite someone for a glass of wine than a glass of water. In fact, in times of drought, the island exported barrels of wine to neighboring islands like Terceira to bring back full of water.

RandomTIP: If you are interested in all the architecture associated with this centuries-old water supply network of tanks, troughs, fountains and reservoirs, Rota da Água (water’s route) at Graciosa is a journey through the ingenuity and effort of the local community to overcome the difficulty of the lack of water. It has been a problem on Graciosa Island since its colonization and only in recent decades has it been overcome with a public water supply system.

Still in the historic center of Santa Cruz de Graciosa, contemplate the facade of the Igreja Matriz, built in the sixteenth century, whose white contrasts with the black basalt rock baseboards. If you enter, you will find a unique altarpiece in the Azores composed of a rare set of oil-painted panels from the 16th century.

Near the church is the Museu da Graciosa, which takes you on a journey through the history of the island and which we tell you about below in the Museums section of the guide.

For a dip in Santa Cruz, we suggest the natural pool of Boqueirão, located at the end of the village of Santa Cruz, a small artificial bay designed to “calm” the sea on rougher days and facilitate swimming.

In the building of the Junta de Freguesia (the local government of Graciosa) you will find the Associação dos Artesãos da ilha Graciosa (Artisans Association of Graciosa Island) where you can learn and know about the embroidery technique of Graciosa, a mostly white embroidery distinguished by Richelieu and full stitches that were more at risk of being lost since lately some young women (yes, mostly women) have shown interest in learning and continuing to embroider with this technique.

Adega e Cooperativa Agrícola da Ilha Graciosa: Although the building visited today is more recent, from 2018, the space actually dates back to 1962, the year in which the winery was founded. The economic activity that made Ilha Graciosa develop was the export, especially to neighboring Terceira, of wheat, barley, brandy and wine (in exchange, many times, for water). In addition to the area dedicated to wines (the most famous around here is the white wine, the brand image of the winery, such as Pedras Brancas, the first white wine of the archipelago certified by the Regional Wine Commission of the Azores), there is an exclusive room dedicated to garlic! Yes, it turns out that garlic on the island of Graciosa has a more intense flavor than usual. The visit to the winery has a symbolic value of 1€ and ends with a tasting of wines, liqueurs and melon and grape jams.

RandomTIP: Graciosa island has a Denomination of Origin for liqueur and sparkling wines so be sure to try not only the Pedras Blancas but also the Alma wines, especially if you are a fan of rosé.

In the photo: Graciosa garlic, Graciosa meloa and the famous Pedras Brancas. Photos by AdegaGraciosa.com

Museums: Museu da Graciosa, Museu da Vida Rural and Casa-Museu João Tomás Bettencourt

• Museu da Graciosa: This museum takes a journey through the history of the island, with emphasis on the economic activities that allowed the island to develop as the export of wheat, barley, brandy, wine and, as in all the Azores, whaling. Although on this island this activity has not had as much expression as, for example, on the island of Pico, it had its maximum exponent in the 40s until, fortunately, it was banned and ended in 1982. Integrated in this museum is also the Moinho das Fontes, one of the few mills of the 28 on the island that was recovered to work. You can visit it by appointment by contacting here.
• Museu da Vida Rural da Ilha da Graciosa: in this museum you will find the recreation of a house of a former rural owner that will help you understand how people lived on the island in the last century.
• Casa-Museu João Tomás Bettencourt: Considering that for several decades this century-old store was the most important commercial space on the island, since 2014 it opened its doors as a House-Museum to learn, through hundreds of objects collected more than 25 years ago, about the daily life of those who lived on the island from the 19th century to the 1980s.
• Furna do Enxofre Visitor Center: in addition to being the gateway to the impressive natural monument Furna do Enxofre, in the two-story Visitor Center we can see, on the lower floor, an exhibition on the Natural Reserve of the islet of Praia.

Get inspired with Instagram stories of our trip to Graciosa

If you want to get inspired by our live adventures, we have saved in our Randomtrip_Blog Instagram (do you already follow us?), in highlights, a selection of what we did during the days we spent in Graciosa.

If you click on this link you will be able to see the videos we recorded in several of the points we recommend in this guide. Are you curious?

The best hiking trails in Graciosa

• Volta à Caldeira (PRC02GRA) around the Caldera de Graciosa and passes through the 3 furnas (Enxofre, Abel and Maria Encantada). Trail of 10.8 km, circular, 3 hours approx. Easy, without slopes or low slopes. In the end we did not do it because we had very good weather when we went and we swarmed from puddle to puddle. In addition, the trail goes mostly by road and we prefer other types of trails. It starts at Furna do Enxofre and ends at the Mirador da Caldeira.
• Serra Branca-Praia (PR01 GRA): A linear, 8.7km, easy route that will take you about 2:30h.
• Baía da Folga (PR03 GRA): small route to know the bay of Folga, a linear route of 2 km in which you will take about 1 hour.
• Das Vinhas ao Mar ( PR04 GRA): small linear route in the municipality of Santa Cruz de Graciosa to contemplate the landscape of vineyards, passing through the spa area of Barro Vermelho. It has 6.6km, is of medium difficulty and takes about 2:30h approx.
• Ascent to the Cume (PR05 GRA): the most “difficult” route of the island because you will reach the highest point of the island, at the top of the Caldeira de Graciosa at 405 meters. It is a circular route of 9.7 km in which you will take about 3:30h.
• Grande Rota Da Graciosa (GR1GRA) : circular route of 40 km divided into two stages that will take you about 14 hours. There are areas of greater difficulty but remember that we are on the least mountainous island of the Azores. More info about the route here
• Rota da Água (Water Route): this route is still under construction but its objective is to value the centennial network of water supply systems.

Where to stay in Graciosa

Being a small island where everything is close (it will take you maximum 30 minutes by car to the farthest point), really any accommodation you choose will be well located to explore the island. At Randomtrip we recommend you where we stayed because we liked it a lot, in Santa Cruz de Graciosa, Boa Nova Hostel (55€/double room), a modern hostel concept that we would not miss in a cosmopolitan city but that was a pleasant surprise on the white Azorean island.

The Boa Nova Hostel has 4 double rooms (of which two with sea view) and dormitories with bunk beds. In addition to being in a beautiful and recently remodeled building (it was brand new when we visited) in the center of Santa Cruz de Graciosa, it has an ideal common space where we could work remotely. We loved the detail they had in the kitchen for guests with different stickers with the number of the room or the bed in the bedroom with Velcro that we could stick on our trays in the fridge to mark what was ours. A great detail! Also noteworthy was the kindness of the staff and the little detail of leaving a typical island pastry in the room (a queijada) upon arrival.

More options in Graciosa:

• Boina do Vento (from 85€/night): if you want to have the experience of sleeping in a mill overlooking the sea.
• Inatel Graciosa (from 85€/night): if you are looking for a hotel with all the comforts, swimming pool, sauna and comfortable rooms
• Portas do Ilhéu (from 100€/night): two very nice houses (respecting the traditional architecture but remodeled by the architect Miguel Miranda) facing the sea and Ilhéu da Praia, a project born from the passion of an architect from Oporto for the Graciosa island. Both Casa de Pedra and Casa Branca have one bedroom, bathroom, living room and equipped kitchen.

Best restaurants in Graciosa

Before going into the suggestions of specific restaurants, a recommendation and a warning. The recommendation: if you have a sweet tooth, be sure to try the Queijadas da Praia da Graciosa, typical of the island and famous throughout the country, you can find them in several places but consider that despite its name “queijadas” (from “queijo“, cheese in Portuguese) do not have cheese but eggs, milk, flour, sugar and cinnamon (they are super sweet, they taste like condensed milk). The caveat has to do with schedules and expectations. On the one hand, when we visited the island, we were left with the feeling that dinner is around 19:30h and we even came across restaurant kitchens that close at 21:00h, so you have to take this into account when organizing your day (for example, if you want to enjoy the sunset in summer time, you probably have to buy something or have dinner earlier, otherwise you risk missing dinner). Another option is to have dinner at home, but those who come to Graciosa usually come for only a couple of days so there is usually no cooking, although if you stay at the Boa Nova Hostel like Randomtrip, you have a great kitchen where you can dine at any time you want. On the other hand, lower your gastronomic expectations, especially if you have come from another Azorean island such as Terceira, Faial or Pico: the restaurants of Graciosa compared to the neighboring central group is below in supply and variety but in a 3-day trip you will not get bored.

From what we tried, we recommend:

• Costa do Sol (Santa Cruz da Graciosa): probably one of the best options in Santa Cruz (or even on the whole island), the Costa do Sol restaurant has been on the island for over 30 years and is known for its abrótia (battered fish) fillets, beef tenderloin and sirloin, but especially for its homemade hamburger (6 €) in bôlo lêvedo, with lettuce, egg, pineapple, onion rings and homemade garlic sauce, which also accompanies the sweet potato fries. We had a hard time making dinner reservations, but we made it. We dined on the terrace (although initially they did not want to serve outside), a hamburger, a tuna steak, a bottle of Pedras Brancas wine, dessert and coffees for 31€.

• Clube Naval (Santa Cruz da Graciosa): the club’s restaurant, which has been hosting regattas of whaling boats, fishing boats and many of the island’s divers since 1987, has a simple space with a privileged view where you can eat from a francesinha, a tuna steak or the famous Portuguese stew to a very generous fried cod with potatoes and peppers (14€).
• Dolphin / O Roque (Carapacho): we give both names because although the restaurant is called Dolphin, the locals know it as O Roque. The specialties are the stone-grilled octopus, the octopus or shrimp skewers with chorizo and peppers and the pan of fresh limpets seasoned with lemon (15€). It has a terrace facing the sea in one of the most beautiful views, the natural pools of Carapacho.
• Estrelas do Mar (Folga): one of our favorites where you can enjoy fresh fish by the sea.

• Snack Bar Santa Cruz also known locally as Bajinha (Santa Cruz da Graciosa): recommended by Catarina from the Boa Nova Hostel for its combo plate with “Linguiça“, a kind of sausage served with fried potatoes (not homemade, a sacrilege in Portugal), fried egg and salad. Very local and cheap (5€ combo plate) but nothing special.
• Grafil Coffee Bar (Santa Cruz da Graciosa): we tried the Aguardiente de Graciosa that you can drink with or without ice. In Randomtrip we tried it with ice and we warned, it is very strong and in Grafil it comes well served, for only 2€ each.
• Padaria Santos (Santa Cruz da Graciosa): if you stay in self-catering accommodation you can buy homemade bread and make your own sandwiches to take away. It is located in the same street of Boa Nova Hostel, about 500 meters ahead.

Graciosa itineraries

As you will have seen if you have read this guide, Graciosa has incredible places to visit but it is not a very big island, so we recommend a 3-day getaway. As we don’t always have so much time and you will probably visit it together with another Azorean neighbor, we leave you some suggestions of itineraries for 1, 2 and 3 days.

Things to do in Graciosa in 1 day

One day is not enough time for Graciosa, so if this is your case we recommend you to prioritize those places that have caught your attention in the guide. We leave you a suggested itinerary for a day in Graciosa, trying to include as many places as possible (not suitable for relaxing):

• Start by visiting Furna do Enxofre and the Caldeira.
• Continue to Carapacho stopping at the viewpoints, and if the weather is good, take a swim in Carapacho.
• From there, head to Porto Afonso, stopping at one of the viewpoints.
• If the weather is good, take a dip in Poceirões.
• On the way to Santa Cruz da Graciosa, stop at Ponta da Barca and Barro Vermelho. See what’s on in Santa Cruz da Graciosa

Things to do in Graciosa in 2 or 3 days

We consider that 2 or 3 days (a weekend) is the ideal amount of time to visit Graciosa. Here is a suggested itinerary for 3 days:

• Day 1: Arrival and check-in at the accommodation. Depending on the time, eat something and visit Ponta da Barca, Poceirões (with bath and relax included) and if you feel like it, you can take the opportunity to watch the sunset from there.
• Day 2: calmly visit Furna do Enxofre, the furnas and the Caldeira (optional: do the hiking that borders it). The next stop is a dip in Carapacho, stopping on the way at the viewpoints that are in the area. Then back to Santa Cruz da Graciosa, to visit the points of interest.
• Day 3: visit Barro Vermelho (take a dip), Porto Afonso, some of the mills in the area, the Associação de Criadores do Burro Anão da Ilha da Graciosa, and Caldeirinha. Afterwards, visit Praia and taste its queijadas.

Transportation: rent a car in Graciosa

As in all the islands of the Azores, in Graciosa we consider essential to rent a car to make the most of the island, take advantage of the weather, and visit some emblematic places (which can not be reached by public transport). Find the best car rental price in Graciosa at DiscoverCars.

In Randomtrip we did it with Graciosa Rent-a-car (36€/day). When you get to the port, you have to go up the hill and there was the lady from Graciosa Rent-a-car waiting for you.

On Graciosa there are only three car rental companies and none of the major ones found on the other islands. The other options are Medina Rent-a-car and Azores Touch. Remember to check well the rental conditions of each company (excess, what the insurance covers, fuel policy, reviews…) and not only the price.

The prices of rental cars in Graciosa rarely go below 35€ per day and, especially in summer, we recommend booking well in advance to avoid running out of vehicles (little supply) or that the few that are available get prohibitive prices.

There is also the option to move around Graciosa by public transport: there is a bus company (Transportes Colectivos da Ilha Graciosa) that connects some of the points of the island, you can see the schedules here. Connections and frequencies are quite limited, but if you are traveling on a low budget it can be a valid option to visit some of the main points.

How much does it cost to travel to Graciosa?

As always, giving a generic budget is very difficult as it depends greatly on your style of travel. What we can do is to give you an orientation of prices and that you calculate your budget with them:

• Flights: You can find flights to Ponta Delgada (São Miguel) or Lajes (Terceira) from Lisbon from 50€ round trip per person and then you will have to add the flight to Graciosa around 90€ round trip but it depends on how far in advance you book. Alternatively, you can reach the island by boat from Terceira or the islands of the triangle but only in summer and only 2 days a week (27,50€ from Terceira, 32€ from São Jorge, per person, one way).
• Car rental: from 35€ per day for the cheapest car (depending on the company and the number of days).
• Accommodation: from 50€/night for a room with private bathroom or apartment with kitchen, centrally located.
• Restaurant meals: between €15 and €25 per person

In total, as a guideline, a 3-day trip to Graciosa with a rented car can cost between 80 and 100€ per person (with the cheapest options of car, accommodation and restaurants), starting from mainland Portugal. If you visit from outside Portugal, you will need to add your flights to get there.

Useful apps for traveling to Graciosa

We recommend some applications to install on your cell phone that will be useful on your trip to Graciosa:

• SpotAzores (Android / iOS / Web): here you can see all the existing webcams in different points of the Azores islands to see how the weather is. Since the weather is very changeable and it can be raining in one part of the island and sunny in another, this app is the fastest way to be sure and avoid unnecessary trips.
• Windy (Android / iOS / Web): essential app in our trips, even more so in the Azores. It allows you to see forecasts for rain, clouds, wind, etc. to help you plan your days based on the weather (as there are places that lose a lot depending on the weather). Obviously the forecasts are not 100% reliable. It also shows the available webcams
• Google Maps (Android / iOS): is the one we use to save / classify all the places we want to go / have gone and as GPS in rental cars. You can see other people’s opinions of the places, photos, restaurant menus, phone number of the places to contact them, etc.
• Maps.me (Android / iOS): application similar to Google Maps but works better offline (although Google Maps can also work offline) and in many cases has information that Google Maps does not have, especially trails. Useful whenever you are going to do a trail, to orient yourself, download the route from the official Azores trails website (click on Downloads->GPS), etc.

Recommendations to visit Graciosa as a responsible tourist

• Respect other people and the island: don’t play your music loudly in the natural pools (if you want to listen to music, bring headphones), don’t leave trash, don’t throw cigarette butts, etc. Leave the place better than you found it (if you find plastic, pick it up).
• In some areas bathing can be dangerous due to strong currents. Don’t be brave.
• Never try to touch or feed an animal – don’t be an accomplice to animal abuse!
• Do not allow the disturbance, pollution and destruction of seabird nesting habitats. The“cagarros“(shearwaters, in Spanish) are a migratory bird that nests in the Azores and that on your trip to the Azores will sound to you by their particular song of“awa awa” as if they were singing the chorus of the song of The Buggles Video Killed the Radio Star. In order to avoid situations where young shearwaters are captured or run over on the road, the Government of the Azores promotes the annual SOS Cagarro Campaign, which we recommend you to get to know when you arrive in the archipelago.
• Remember that sometimes you may encounter a jellyfish (aguaviva) or a Portuguese caravel in the waters of Graciosa, whose sting is painful and dangerous. The good thing is that these last ones float and are easily detectable, but in case you see one, get out of the water immediately and warn other people of their presence. In case you have been stung by either of them, it is very important that you follow these official recommendations: do not scratch the area of the sting (to prevent the venom from spreading); do not clean with fresh water or alcohol, clean only with sea water and very carefully; and in the case of a Portuguese Carabela sting, seek medical attention as soon as possible.
• Do not buy handicrafts made from sea animals or extracted from the sea (e.g. dolphin teeth, turtle shells, shark jaws, sperm whale ivory, …). The ivory trade, currently the only valuable product of the sperm whale, is still an argument for hunters. Buy local handicrafts made from alternative materials such as wood, stone or vegetable ivory.
• Always travel with travel insurance: medical expenses, theft or problems with your plane on a trip can cost you a lot of money, so the ideal is to take out travel insurance. At Randomtrip we always use IATI and we recommend it. If you contract your insurance through this link you have a 5% discount.

Checklist: what to pack in your backpack/suitcase for Graciosa

Here is a list of must-haves you can’t forget to take with you on your trip:

• A  reusable water bottle like one of these to carry water with you all the time and void single-use plastic.
• A good camera to register your adventures. At Randomtrip we carry a Sony ZV-E10 and a Gopro Hero12 Black (for underwater pictures)
• A Power bank: taking so many pictures will drain your batteries, so it’s always a good idea to carry a good powerbank. At Randomtrip we travel with these 2 (Anker 20000 mAh and  Anker 10000 mAh), which allow us to charge both our phones and our cameras.
• First aid kit: In our first-aid kit there is always a medicine against seasickness (such as biodramine for seasickness on boats), antibiotics, anti-diarrhea medication (and a probiotic to recover more quickly), antihistamines, painkillers and antipyretics and, of course, travel insurance. If you hire your travel insurance with IATI using this link you will get a 5% discount
• Water Shoes like these ones, ideal for not hurting your feet when entering the water or not touching the ground. Keep in mind that in the Azores (with the exception of the island of Santa Maria) you will not find sandy beaches but natural volcanic rock pools or pebble beaches mostly so you will want to carry your water shoes at all times.
• Hiking shoes because the best way to get to know the Azores is by hiking the trails. At Randomtrip we use these Columbia ones.
• Snorkel kit (mask and tube) like this one, a must to take on this trip to contemplate the seabed.
• Water proof dry bag like this one, very useful for keeping your camera equipment, cell phone and wallet safe from getting wet on any boat trip (or even if the tide comes in on the beach).
• Sun screen: always look for a Coral Friendly Sunscreen, i.e. one that protects your skin without harming marine ecosystems by avoiding ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are harmful to corals. Nor that it has been tested on animals.
• Mosquito repellent: like this one, it should have at least 15% deet
• Fast drying towel like this one which doesn’t take a lot of space in your luggage
• A hat or a cap (like this one) and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun
• Windbreaker waterproof jacket: like this one, to protect yourself from the sudden weather changes in Azores

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A ilha Graciosa “é o lugar mais bonito do mundo, paraíso na terra, onde a natureza se ergueu ao mar” 

Graciosa Island “is the most beautiful place in the world, the paradise on earth, where nature came up to the sea“.

Valter Hugo Mãe, Portuguese writer and winner of the Grande Prémio Portugal Telecom de literatura (2012) and the Prémio José Saramago (2007), among others. We read this sentence in Boa Nova Hostel, our little house on the island for a few days.